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Working on my oldest son's buddy's 2000 Big Bear. He was having some power loss at WOT so i thought it worth while to clean the carb and put at kit in it...or at least clean the OEM jets and use the new orings that come in the kit. It starts and idles like a champ, but dies and wants to backfire with any throttle at all. I assume lean because it will run decent with the choke on. Air screw adjusted fine, nice crisp idle. This one has fuel/air screw, low speed jet, mid jet, and main jet. I was assuming just trash in the low speed circuit so pulled it and cleaned again, still does the same.
Two questions I guess:
1. Does it sound most likely trash in the off idle circuit? This one has a few more passages and jets than I'm used to...and a darn diaphragm.
2. It now really wants to leak at the bowl drain screw. It doesn't seem to tighten enough to completely stop the flow. Seat looks good, screw was dirty but cleaned up fine with a touch of 2000 grit paper. First for me. Any idea here?
By Ryann Racho
So Id say about 2 years back I bought a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. off of my uncle. It ran perfectly, nothing wrong at all. I usually go mudding with it or just ride trails with buddies. So as you would assume, the quad is quite dirty from sitting for a few weeks.
STUTTERING PROBLEM: I noticed one day out of nowhere that in high gear at 15-20 MPH, I was already maxed out at 4500-5000 RPM It would get to 15-20 mph, max out on rpms and start sputtering. It sounded like it was basically acting like it couldn’t go any faster than this.
IDLING PROBLEM: I was fucking with the carberator the other day maybe thinking that is causing my sputtering, and now my idle will shoot up to 2600 on start usually, then I will turn the throttle adjustment down to the normal 1400. The rpms with then fluctuate 10-30 rpms back and forth repeatedly, it will then run for about another 30-60 seconds and the RPMs will slowly drop to about 900-1000 RPM and stall out. I replaced the carburetor and everything seems to be working perfect on that, no leaks and what not but it’s still acting strange. Also, I’ve noticed that when looking into the Electronic Throttle Control that two plates that aren’t supposed to touch have to be WAY past touching to even try to fire up. Even when set at a wide open throttle like that, I still have to give it some throttle to get it to fire up.
Here is what I have done so far:
Checked the belt and clutch
Changed out spark plug (Last one was covered in carbon)
Cleaned the intake and air box
Replaced the carburetor
Replaced the inline fuel filter
Checked that all lines on carburetor are connected into the right spots
Checked If intake boot was cracked (Not from what I can see)
Unhooked and reattached new carburetor (About 4-5 times)
Cleaned battery terminals and battery off
Shut on and off Gas Line Cutoff Valve
My next thoughts are that maybe the TPS is fucked up or maybe the Spark Arrestor is plugged with mud. I was thinking tomorrow to purge the exhaust and also check the ohms output on the TPS.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE BEEN BATTLING THIS FOR WEEK AND REALLY WANT TO GO RIDING. THANK YOU!
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
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By Chayse Hill
I have a 2003 LTZ 400 that i bought a few days ago. The quad was running fine until last night. I let my brother ride it down the street and back and i didnt notice anything etong with bike. Then my neighbors friend came over and said "can i ride it?" I said "sure" so he ripped it down the road all fine and when he got back it died right in front of us. My brother said it was dieing on him also. He also said that he wasnt using the clutch to shift. I told him he was an idiot. Im throwing that in there incase that caused a problem as well. But today i go to check it to make sure its getting fuel which it is and replaced the spark plug incase it wasnt getting spark but it is. So i started it and it was having a problem starting then i got started and was reving at idle high. So i took it around the block and it died on me a little bit down, so i try to restart it and it started so i kicked it into 1st and it kinda launched on me and started going with the clutch all the way in. Then it died right after and wasnt running right during that process and was idleing all over the place and just died and now i cant get it started it again. Before it would start without the choke or priming it. It would start real quick now i cant figure if it needs to be rejetted or something else. Air filter looks clean also. But any help would be gratelly appreciated!
I'm new to this site and to CanAm/Bombardier atv's. I purchased this quad local to my area and shortly after started noticing a knocking noise from the bottom end, which I've been told may need a rebuild.
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I can take some pics of the quad and upload. If you need parts off of it, let me know and make me an offer.
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OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
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