Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
The 2019 ATV Motocross National Championship Series (ATVMX), an AMA National Championship, headed to Sunset Ridge MX in Walnut, Illinois for the sixth AMA Pro round and fifth amateur ATVMX round.
View the full article
Our new friend shows us what the brand new 2019 Yamaha grizzly 700 can do in the mud! He already started modding up his grizzly to help tackle the mud like never before! The 2019 yamaha grizzly really impressed me and I love the look of the 14" rims along with the 2" highlifer lift!
We got a few new sponsorship rolling in this year so make sure you keep a look out for that stuff!
Similar Tagged Content
My first post! Been hanging around this great site for awhile and decided to join.
What I could use is repair manual that covers a 1983 Lt 125. Bought this atv while in Alaska in 86 with 3500 miles, four flat tires and no brakes, from a guy from McGrath. After 25 years, I think it is time for some brakes
Any information regarding replacing the brakes, or a repair manaul would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
I've gotten the wheel off, disassembled the brake assembly and gotten the new pads on. Now I'm trying to get the axle back into the hub, and having some trouble. The splines line up, but the axle on goes in until the end of the axle is flush with the hub. It still needs to go another two or three inches to be completely seated. I've tapped at it with a hammer, but I don't want to damage anything.
My fear is that a bearing may be worn or loose and the axle isn't centering when I try to tap it in.
Any experience/advice shared would be most helpful.
If they bore make sure they Chamfer the Ports some places don't do it
and after picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore.
Here we are all set up to run some cylinders through the first step in boring a cylinder. After the upper and lower gasket surfaces are cleaned we are ready to go.
Mounting the Cylinder.
You are seeing correctly, the cylinder is mounted upside down. This assures that the new bore is square with the cylinder base.
The Cutting Tip.
The cutting tip spins in the holder and automatically feeds itself down into the bore cutting a perfectly round hole parallel to the cylinder base. The bore is taken to within two thoundandths or so of the finished bore size using this machine. Most shops will be happy to show you their boring equipment if they have it. If all they show you is a hone, take your cylinder elsewhere. Removing large amounts of material with a hone can get the bore out of square - not cool.
On two-stroke cylinders it is necessary to chamfer the port edges. Rounding of the sharp edge prevents premature wear on the piston and ring assembly. Using a rotary burr to make the initial chamfer, and finishing it out with a sandroll, is a good way to get the proper angle and finish.
The top of the exhaust port shows a properly chamfered port. It doesn't take a lot of material removal, just enough to break the sharp edge. I prefer to do my chamfer work before I finish hone the cylinder.
What you see in this photo are cylinder hones. Most of you have seen the "spring loaded paddle hones," these are much different . These hones adjust by a screw that allows the operator to add tension as needed. Unlike a spring loaded hone, they will only cut a round circle if used properly. The cylinder's final finish and size are attained using these pieces of equipment.
The fine stones that are doing the finish work will also imbed their abrasive into the cast iron walls of the cylinder. After picking up your cylinder from getting a fresh bore job, always wash your cylinder in hot soapy water. Washing in a solvent tank won't get the abrasives out! Dawn dishwashing liquid works great for the final cleaning of a freshly bored and honed cylinder. After you clean and rinse the cylinder, dry it quickly and then get a clean white paper towel with oil on it and use it to lubricate the bore. If the towel comes out of the cylinder, when you're done lubricating it, with any traces of black or gray then the cylinder needs to be cleaned yet again. When properly cleaned the white paper towel with the oil on it will look the same color on removal as it did when you put it into the bore.
You are now ready to install your new piston into the cylinder and get back to riding!
Well..i absolutely hate my job..(i have another one that i like better) ..i didnt sign a contract or anything so..can i just not go back..its a small theatre job..and if a future job asks for reverence i'll just act like that place never existed..I really hate it..they put me on horrible hours like all weekend..pay is bad and the work is bad..any suggestions? Note i have another job..i work during the week making a little more than theatre, ALOTTTT easier and can still afford to make payments..
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.