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I know this has been talked about, so i did some research.
After my research, i started buying parts.
Here are the parts you need:
51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm
51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm
51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm
51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm
44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2)
53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends)
51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle
51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle
53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft)
23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts)
40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft
44250-HP7-A31, right front axle
44350-HP7-A31, left front axle
11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover
50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket
41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit
You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine.
Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches:
Here is the engine before removal:
front differential in position:
^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd
Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine).
^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover.
link to video>:
once the new shaft is installed:
you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above.
here is the right front corner mostly assembled:
and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper:
I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further
By Jason Sturge
New to the forum and new to ATV's and am about to purchase my first ATV in over 20 years. I've been sledding mostly but with climate changing we just don't get the same amount of snow where I live so anymore. I just sold my 2014 Ski Doo Renegade 800 and am actively looking for a performance ATV. I've always been partial to Bombardier Sleds and I'm finding myself partial to the BRP ATV's. So there's the lead up and I have a couple questions to make sure I'm on the right track before making an ATV purchase.
Are the CAN AM sleds reliable for one?
I'm doing some research and I like the sounds of the XMR for the area I will be riding and the kind of style i think I'll ride like. Is that a solid choice for riding marshlands and back country?
Displacement - I ran 800 cc 2 stroke sleds running 150+ HP. I know the 4 stroke game is a different animal altogether. Should I go with 650, 800 or 1000? I'm thinking 800 or 1000 cc. Are there reliability issues on the 1000?
How about other manufactures. Yamaha or Kawasaki seems like solid choices as well. Polaris I think I'll stay away from do to past experiences.
I know i have a lot of catching up to do and I'll do my research but just looking for some input from some of you guys if that's possible.
Thanks in advance
I just bought a 2018 Can Am 570 Outlander and was hoping to try to find a way to convert a Can Am 2-up seat that I picked up on Craigslist to my new machine in some fashion. No way to do it without the seat sitting up 8-9 inches above the main seat. Scrapped that Idea but decided to try to convert it to my Honda Rancher. Also in a way that would allow me to remove it quickly and allow access to my battery compartment if necessary. Here's what I came up with.
Since the seat has two fork like protrusions on the front underside I needed to come up with something that they would lock into. On rear underside there is a spring loaded handle that allows it to lock onto a 3/8" round bar. I wanted the bar that the front part of the seat locked into to also be removable so I came up with a design for the bar that would slide onto the front side of the rear rack and pin into place using the rack itself as the mounting base. Then I welded a couple pieces of 3/4" pipe to the rear part of the rear rack with a piece of 3/8" solid bar stock onto the front of the two pieces of pipe that were welded to the rear section of the rack. The forks of the seat lock into the front bar, the pipes at the back not only support the rear part of the seat but act as a centering guide for the two locking mechanisms that lock onto the 3/8" bar stock. When it is locked into place it is extremely solid and has no way of coming loose except when I release the spring loaded handle. And it actually doesn't look too bad when installed either. Plus, the front side of the rear seat acts as a back rest for the small of the drivers back, pretty cool.
This is part number: RDBK-H.
TRX300 2x4 1988-2000
TRX300 4x4 1988-2000
TRX350 RANCHER 2x4 2000-2006
TRX350 RANCHER 4x4 2000-2006
TRX400AT RANCHER 400 2004-2007
TRX420 RANCHER 4x2 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS)
TRX420 RANCHER 4x4 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS)
TRX400 FOREMAN 4x4 1995-2003
TRX500 RUBICON 2001- NEWER
TRX500 FOREMAN 500 2005-NEWER
So we start it off, everything was packaged nicely.
Full color instructions....nice touch:
Disc looks sturdy:
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