Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

jeffrocdx

Brute Force 650 Head Gasket???

Recommended Posts

I am working on a Kawasaki Brute Force 650. The oil is milky white which tells me there is a bad head gasket on one of the cyclinders. How tough is it to change the gasket? Any help will be much appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I've personally never changed on on that, but you would need to remove the head, so depending on what's involved there...Do you have a manual?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Steven Urban
      First time using this forum.  Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues.  But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction.  They stated it ran, but only needed a battery.  Well I do not believe that was all true.

      Some pictures are attached.  Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed.  They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.

      I purchased a battery to try this all out.  Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box.  But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.

      1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on.  Not sure if they work or not.

      2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad.  I have a new one on order. 

      3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part.  Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.

      4 - What is the 12v rectifier?  square bodied part.

      So when I hooked the battery up.  Pushing the start button did nothing.  Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire.  I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out.  With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.

      I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on.  SOmething about a kill switch.

      Any help would be appreciated.



    • By Rigo Mena
      I have a Kawasaki bayou 220 that won’t start I don’t know if it has something to do with the electrical wires but when I put the screwdriver on both bolts of the relay it wants to crank but can’t and there’s a missing piece I think it’s another relay that has 6 wires going into it
    • By JacobSlabach
      Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already.  When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there).  it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start.  I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things.  I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.  
      Enough background on it, the problem is this:  It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly.  It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold...  It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold-  does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal.  A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression.  I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis..  I have never adjusted valves before-  the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this.  My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top-  should i tear down and rebuild the top end?  What should i try first?  I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed.  I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon.

      Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit-  Id rather not sink too much more into this machine..  lol
    • By ray desocio
      I posted earlier looking for a wiring diagram, but maybe someone can help me with the problem if they’ve had it before. 
       
      The quad Will start and idle ok, when I open the throttle it will rev all the way up until WOT and then it dies back down to idle, and if I keep the throttle wide open it will rev back up. It will do this over and over and over. 
       
      I replaced the carb, (twice), Rectifier, battery, and spark plug.  The Stator ohmed out to the proper specs from dinli.  The other issue i can see is I’m not getting 12v on the choke circuit. The lights don’t work either. 
       
      possible bad key switch? Maybe the new rectifier is bad? All the contacts on the key switch also ohm out properly    
      comprsssion is up to 125 psi and spark is there. 
       
      Reed valves look great.....
       
      im at a loss. Any trouble shooting advice would be appreciated. 
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...