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PolarisRich

Polaris ATV Valve Adjustment

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I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.

My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.

I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.

Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)

[ATTACH]1021[/ATTACH]

then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).

[ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]

Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.

[ATTACH]1022[/ATTACH]

Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.

The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the

timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.

The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.

Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on

the flywheel into the center of the hole.

[ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]

Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly

[ATTACH]1024[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]1025[/ATTACH]

To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.

The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.

I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.

I hope this helps!

Thanks Rich

Poocover.jpg.dfd9aee9d633eb22faee84fd45239333.jpg

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12436845iYQHAulzUy_ph.jpg.b0fc4beb4b7cc1b921520eb2bd98965b.jpg

Poohead.jpg.9b473b56ac662611d5db2c67b0a2174b.jpg

PooFeeler.jpg.85e867fcd5da9a4e6afd908c424ab3a7.jpg

Edited by PolarisRich
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Heres my findings during the valve adjusting process.

The two exhaust valves were just less than .004" and the intake valves were tight with no gap causing pressure on the valve it's self. Everything is now adjusted to .006".

So I took the bike out for a little run today and I noticed a few things.

First the "Pros"

The first thing was how easy the bike started, next was how the idle had smoothed out. The idle dosn't fluxuate as much anymore. Throttle responce is a tad better too.

Now the only "Con" if you can call it a "Con".

There is now a valve train noise that was not there before I did the adjustment. I guess the slight ticking sound is normal, also good for the Cam and the general performance of the engine. Only a "Con" because of the noise.

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I experienced the same thing on my Honda. The valves were adjusted closer than spec. I put them to spec and the ticking was slightly louder. I didnt ruin anything as my motor is now at 4 Stroke Tech and Mickey said the internals where in great shape

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Outstanding ! I was “polarized” lol get it Polaris? by the detail in the process and the pics.  Well done brother. We can all read and visualize the posts here with people having problems, sharing info etc but the pictures really clarify a lot and help out with understanding what’s going on. 👍

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had the same thing happen with my kawasaki bayou.  Rebuilt the top end and now it ticks...  I'm interested to know what the cause is...  Also, I have an 04 sportsman 500 that I'm fixing up to sell.  If I have a bad idle, I will use your procedure on the valves!  Thanks

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