Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
My ranger crew 700 is hard to shift and gets locked into forward. When trying to shift into reverse we have to shut engine off. Shift then restart. Checked linkage and gears are fine. The RPMs arent really that high but did notice a little improvement when we lowered it. Did notice the throttle cable looks damaged. Could this be the issue?
By Danielle Bingham
So I have my very first Atc still. My dad gave it to me when I was very little (was brand new; one owner bike), and it has needed just two repairs over the approximately three decades: replace/repair pull-start.
Any ideas of some simple & not so simple mods/upgrades for this classic? I'd LOVE to swap the tranny for one with a real clutch, personally...possible??
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
Similar Tagged Content
Come on up, here to Michigan, with so many great trails, covering half our state! So many trails it would take a life time, to explore them all! Get with me and lets plan a trip, where I can save you years of trying to find the best of the trails, towns, restaurants, lakes, hill climbs, campgrounds, so much clean sand, you'll think your riding in Arizona lol!
Summer will be here, before you know it!
If your over 50, so as to have more in common, join me, and lets ride!
hiya, im not really new to riding quads but i am new to owning my own (working) quad. i have a falcon 150, which isnt too bad, bit sluggish on steep inclines but overall far better than the smc r100 i used to own. i have a basic understanding of single cylinder bikes and a less than useful understanding of anything bigger so i may be asking for a lot of help lol. anyway, i look forward to being proved wrong relentlessly and actually maintaining a working bike
Hey all names Sean just joined up. I surfed the forums and couldn't track down anything to help me. Problem I'm having is when I try to start the quad with the electric start it turns over and will cough and a little puff of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. I pull started it the other day and she fired and would go for a bit if I feathers the throttle. As soon ad I would pull the clutch in though she dies. I changed spark plug, oil, starter solenoid. Haven't been able to check compression. Was thinking maybe timing is off? I'm not sure at this point I'm frustrated but keeping hope someone out here can point me in the right direction, this is my first quad.
Hi, I am a new guy to the forum with just a little experience riding atvs.I have a 94(I think) 4x4 Timberwolf and I need to replace the ujoints on the front driveshaft. I broke one of the yokes and have found a couple on ebay.
Is there a way to get the yokes off with the ujoints in place or is there a trick to take the ujoints apart with the driveshaft in place? I have replaced many ujoints on cars but never on an atv and I am confused on how to go about it.
any pointers are much appreciated
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.