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By Sharon van den Berg
We bought an old atv from friends to bum around on the farm with. VIN number is rusted off. Is there a way to determine the year model from the engine number? We only need the info to buy parts. Please help
On one of the atv I recently purchased the neutral switch is bad, Any one ever replaced one.
looking for some pics. I assume I need to remove the drive shaft to pull the cover foward
to clear the gear shift shaft. Any easy ways to do this. So far have motor moved forward
all bolts out except nuts on drive shaft which are loose Thanks Az
By Steve Howard
Ran find shut down the quad next day would start and idle when you try to accelerate it would start popping through the carb got a rebuild kit soaked it in chem clean after break down for 12 hours on slow vibrate reassembled and adjusted per manual still the same thing any help would be really appreciated thanks and happy ridding
I wanted to share an experience and a fix.
Headed out was following a pole line, was looking for a cross track that may take me to this speckle trout looking spot on a creek. All paths and semi paths... failed. Second objective was to reach a speckle trout lake that has been recently stocked... followed 1 trail to dead end, followed second trail to dead end.... while investigating options on foot and the quad idling it died.
It wouldn't start. eventually it did... and when it did … it was essentially a pinned idle. activating the throttle did seem to speed it up but it wouldn't knock out of the racing idle. couldn't put it in gear at that idle speed. got towed out.
when I first got the quad, I ran it off a trail and buried it pretty good in the soft snow... eventually winched out. It wouldn't start. eventually did and it was fast idling. not as fast as this last time. but still fast. it eventually seemed to settle and I got it in gear and by the time I was back to the truck was acting ok. chalked it up to the bike being at a bad angle in the snow.
My investigation last year lead to the throttle position sensor TPS. how to jumper the diag block to see the sensor position on the display,. I focused on this nearly sure it was a detuned sensor or broken sensor again this time.
I tore down the front plastic and stuck my head into the TPS area to see what I could see. What I found was that the throttle body assembly had actually come out of the mounting area (not sure what it is called). the ring clamp was loose I could move it easily. Hopeful, I tore down the air intake assembly above it (air filter...etc) removed a sensor clip and a hose.
I backed off the clamp some more and was able to reseat the throttle body assembly. put some blue lock tite on the clamp screw. When I was cleaning off the air intake assembly to ensure I dropped nothing down the intake, I noticed the underside of the air intake "box" also had a clamp. this screw was completely missing.
I went to the hardware store, bought a metric replacement (brought clamp with me), seated the assembly, settled the clamp blue lock tite that as well...
quad fired right up, idled normal, idled up without hesitation and dropped right back off. Cost of solution $3.87 CND for a pack of 5 metric screws. moral of my story was don't assume an idle issue is a throttle position sensor problem... there are a number of other factors including air pressure, which I believe was my issue.
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Hey guys, I sure hope someone can help me out here...
A few weeks ago, while we were out riding, Mini-Me's four wheeler started acting up. Anything above about ¼ throttle would make it bog real bad and if you didn’t back off the gas it would shut off. Seemed like it was starving for gas or air. No obvious fix on the trail so took it home figuring it was a fouled carb.
Took the carb off; not serviceable. Put it back on and the problem was gone. All I did was unbolt it, pull it out, cuss about the shaved screw heads, and put it back. Ran fine for a few days then did it again. Took carb off and put back on again (hell, it worked last time) and while I was at it I bought a good plug and replaced that. Didn’t fix it this time.
Ordered a new carb under waranty. Company took three weeks to send me the wrong part.
I ordered a new one myself which showed up Friday. Saturday morning I had him ride it pre-replacement to verify issue was still there; it was. Anything over ¼ gas it would bog and die.
Replaced carb (fyi – slightly larger – 20mm new vs. 19mm stock) and it was back up and running. Better then before, seemed a little quicker and sounded MUCH better.
For a few hours… Then the bog and stall came back. Below is everything I tried last night –
Took fuel line from tank straight to carb – bypassed filter/petcock – no change
Took crankcase line (that is hooked to the air filter with a check valve in-line) off case – no change
Took air filter completely off – no change
Gassed it until it started acting up and then started shutting down the choke (to much air?) – no change
Held the back end up (now it’s not “under load”) and revved it up – no change
Adjusted the idle up close (doing it by ear) to where it wanted to cut out when using the throttle – continued to idle fine; no bog. Blipped the throttle and it bogged down.
I’m going to go get a can of starter fluid to check for air leaks around intake, some carb cleaner to clean up the carb, and a new fuel filter to replace Chinese one. Don’t expect any of that to fix it, but ruling things out.
Also; this may not be related but….
The battery on this thing is a POS. When we pull it out in the morning it doesn’t have the juice to crank it, gotta “boost” it for ~5 min. before it will crank. Usually once boosted and we get it started it’s good the rest of the day. Well yesterday he shut it off and when he tried to start it again it wouldn’t bust off. I did a little investigating and discovered that if you hit the starter and give it some throttle it acts like the battery is dead (slow turnover, wont fire). But once you let off the gas, it spins over slow a time or two (clearing the pressure?) and then the revs start to pick up and it will start. Almost like it’s over pressure in the cylinder if you open the throttle…
Because of the above I’m thinking maybe an exhaust valve issue??? To tight, not letting pressure out fast enough maybe? Maybe that’s causing the bog when you give it gas??? I’m going to get a set of feeler gauges and check/adjust the valve clearance.
Again, don’t expect a magic fix but it’s something to look at. I know these things require periodic valve adjustment, but I can’t see it being out of whack at < 10 hours.
I was going to pull the plug, hook it up and ground it while I hit the starter to verify that I’m getting fire, but it starts and idles fine, so no sense in that. I’ll still pull to inspect (correct color, no oil, etc.) just for fun.
I don’t think it’s anything mechanical, symptoms/trouble shooting so far just don’t fit.
Which leaves electrical; the CDI boxes on these things are know issues, but 99% of the time they are good/no good. So why does it start/idle if that’s bad? I suppose it could be bad and only displaying once the revs come up, but that’s a LOOOOONG shot. Only $5 so if tonight’s tinkering doesn’t fix/isolate the issue I’ll probably get one just to say it’s been replaced.
Aside from the CDI there is a battery (for starting only), a magneto, a voltage regulator/rectifier, and a million electrical connections. I haven’t gone thru them all but I can’t believe it’s a bad connection or the magneto because of the repeatability of the problem. It doesn’t come and go on its own; it runs fine, then all of the sudden won’t come off idle without cutting out. Take the old carb off, put it back on; it’s fixed (for a while). Take the old carb off, put it back on, it’s not fixed. Take the old carb off, put a new one on; it’s fixed (for a while).
Which leads me back to mechanical, but I’ve checked (almost) all of that.
Small chance it’s the valve adjustment, but I’ll verify that tonight. If it jumped timing it would be jacked from idle so I don’t think that’s it, plus it showed up, went away, came back, etc... If timing was off it wouldn’t run at all, or would run like crap from idle on; correct?
Oh, also – When I started looking at it last night (right after it started acting up) the air intake (short, curved aluminum “tube” going from the carb to the head) was hot. REALLY HOT. Maybe he over heated it, but before I put the new carb on he test rode it cold and it still did it.
Short of a .40 thru the engine block, anything else you can think of? I’m running short on ideas after the above…
Has anyone tried the GPS XII Run Flat tires. We just got a set for hunting season and these are the best thing I have ever seen. If your looking for a tire that you don't have to worry about flats this is the tire. We have purchased many different brands for our machines over the years and nothing like these ever. A little on the pricy side but I have to say well worth every penny.
I bought this bike a few months ago running fine. Rode it once and things have been downhill from there. It started to cough while riding, then backfiring and stalling, eventually leading to not starting at all. The bike was sent to the shop for a carb service, rode it for 10 minutes, and now it is worse than ever. Bought a brand new carb for it, still will not start or run. The spark is intermittent. This video shows the best it has "run" in months: [ame]
[/ame]. At my wits end here, and months behind on bush work which is what the quad was bought for. PLEASE HELP!
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