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Picked this beauty up for zero dollars this weekend. It has been passed around several of my son's friends and the last kid was just tired of tinkering with it. Mostly complete 96 300FW. The pic is my boy robbing the swing arm and rear diff for his 300 for a big memorial weekend ride. Wiring is garbage at the battery, kick start doesnt work, no coil, smoked like cheech and chong when it ran last. I figure a couple hundred and a few hours and this will be ready to ride. Journey will be documented on Instagram at @martincyclellc if ya wanna follow along.
I had a quad fall in my lap a couple weeks ago. The only things I knew about it was it was a Kawasaki Bayou 220, was in pretty rough shape and was free. I couldn't say no to a fun little project. I've been looking a different ATV forums gathering quite a bit of info and decided this was the one I wanted to join.
Thanks to this forum, I found the VIN under about an inch of mud and cross referenced it to be a '98. It had been sitting outside for at least 5 years and was told it ran when parked, but had no brakes. Squirrels or mice had been chewing on the handlebar controls and it's generally just kind of beat up.
So far, I've gone through the carb (not near as bad as I expected), freed up the brakes (will probably need new cables), replaced the spark plug, air filter, petcock and put a new battery in it.
The gas tank had been empty and looked clean so I put some fresh gas in it and tried to crank it today. I got a neutral light, but the starter button did nothing. I tried pull-starting it and it wouldn't fire. I checked the plug and wasn't getting a spark. I started digging and found some potential issues and some definite problems.
I have a wiring diagram I found on here but it's just a picture or scan out of a book and hard to read. I don't see a reference to a black/yellow wire, which is my first problem.
First, it that a factory crimp? One of those wired looks like it goes to the connector in the 2nd pic. Is that just a spade lug type connector? I pulled on it with some needle nose pliers but it didn't seem to want to come off. In the 3rd pic, should there be a fourth wire?
I've read through and bookmarked the threads Andrew Baker and Arizona have going but I figured I needed to start with these obvious issues first. I have lots of pictures, so if there is something else you want to see, just ask. If I don't already have a pic, I'll take one.
By colin james
View File 2018/2019 Polaris Sportsman XP 850/1000 Service Manual
This is the factory service manual for the 2018/2019 Polaris Sportsman XP 850/1000
Submitter colin james Submitted 08/01/2019 Category Polaris ATV
By colin james
View File 2017-2019 sportsman 450/570 with eps factory service manual
This is the factory service manual for the 2017-2019 factory service manual for the sportsman 450/570 with electronic power steering
Submitter colin james Submitted 09/06/2018 Category Polaris ATV
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By Aj Hurtibise
I have a 2000 Honda trx90 I got from a buddy for free he said it needed a carb so I put his old carb back on it to try to get something out of it and it does not have any Spark. I already replaced the ignition coil I don't know much about four wheelers but I am a technician so I do know my way around a motor any electrical help would be wonderful or specs I don't have the best digital multimeter either.
So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
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