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I have a 02 Warrior i am trying to build a wiring harness i have looked in the manual and i am confused... the pick up has 2 wires. W/R W/G The source rotation coil has 2 wires. One is Red other is white/blue. The manual shows the the white and blue wire connected to the w/g right after the stator... so why is these 2 wires connected? Does not show w/b wire at cdi
i have looked at many options with no luck if someone has a 2002-2004 warrior and can take a pic of the wires and location at cdi i would really appreciate it. Thanks
I have an '02 Taurus with 85k miles on her that I just bought. Today when I was checking something under the hood I noticed this metal line cold and dripping with water...
I had the air on but turned to the position of arrows pointing out of the dash and floor vents only. The defrost or a/c function was not selected. It seems to be doing it consistently. I haven't traced all the parts of this car's a/c system yet but I don't know of anything else under a hood that turns cold and sweats. Why would my compressor be working when it's not selected? What tests should I run?
By Chase Cook
I have a Yamaha warrior 350 and it has a brand new head and piston set. The piston has some scoring on the sides so I bought a new piston kit and it should be here tomorrow. The bottom of the cylinder head still has the cross haching on it but the mod and top don't and still looks good. Do I have to rehone it or no? No would be a great answer LOL.. need help. Also if I do is there another way to rehone it without a honing tool.. don't have one..
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
By Chris Stokes
What is a good option for a 13 year old that is dying to get her very own atv to ride? Thanks in advance for your recommendations. I currently own a Polaris Sportsman 570 and have been happy with the Polaris sportsman line but have ruled out other brands.
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The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
Hi all, I try to find this manual in the threads but you have a lot of stock here
Cannot find this particular manual.
I found it for YFM200 but not sure if they are the same.
Thanks if you could help me with that.
Im new here so if I did something wrong, please tell me.
Doing this for the first time on the old 2011 Grizz 700 and have a few q's?
I've found valve clearance specs as such...
Intake 0.09–0.13 mm (0.0035–0.0051 in)
Exhaust 0.16–0.20 mm (0.0063–0.0079 in)
If anyone can confirm that'd be great. I've been told to adjust the valve clearances to the top of the range in anticipation that they will tighten over time. This sound about right?
Are these the only two o-rings I'll need to replace? Both #18s in the schematic...
Yamaha ATV Parts 2011 GRIZZLY 700EPS 4WD HUNTER - YFM7FGPHA CYLINDER HEAD Diagram
And finally, which of those two valve covers are the intake and exhaust?
Also, was wondering about replacing my two gear box oil drain plugs and engine oil plug with the magnetic Gold Plugs. But at a price of $60 I'm wondering if they're actually worth it. Do people regularly find metal bits attached to these plugs?
looking for direct shift shifting lever that properly fits my 2003 Yamaha warrior 350 and fits my foot the same as a stock 2003 Yamaha warrior 350 shifting lever fits my foot
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