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I had to adjust the valves on this 500 (and few other things) and I'm trying to get the cam timing right, and something is really out-of-whack here. It seems anyway. When I line up the dots like the service manual describes, the lobes on the 2 cams are in almost in the same position. According to the manual (and a youtube vid or 2) the lobes should be at aproximatley 10 oclock on the int and 2 oclock on the exhaust. These are nowhere near that. There must be a woodruff type key on the sprockets. I wonder if those are sheared off? Thanks for any input!
I finally found an awsome app for your phone that shows you on a map all the trails near your location. You can read or add reviews, look at picts...etc
Its called: atv escape
By Dra O
I likely just kissed $200 goodbye buying a Honda 250 this AM from Craiglist. We'll see.
- VIN number is off the front frame; one VIN site calls it a 2008 Honda 250 TRX - this baby ain't a 2008; other VIN sites list the VIN as invalid; might be that the owner (a shady dude from a shadier side of my home town) put a 2008 front end on it? No idea.
- a HUGE hint (hint #1) would've been that there's no key to start the machine - gotta use a screwdriver. I'll likely be visited by police sometime in the near future.
- owner acquired from another man - owner showed me video of him riding it this summer on a major interstate while very drunk (hint #2) - the machine sounded good in the video
- no front headlight; owner said machine has new carb - looks Chinese - he didn't have original carb; air intake box is wide open - no long plastic connection sleeve leading into air box like on my 99 king quad; no visible oil leaks; oil is dark; air filter clean; decent plastic; no front right brake apparatus; left brake handle very loose and rear brake doesn't work
- battery at this point is good; manipulate the ignition switch w/ screw driver and the green neutral light shines (this has since stopped working)
- it's a kick start machine: when I kicked it down (hint #3), the compression sounded normal, almost "tight" but at the end of the cycle, there was some awful grinding noise coming from what sounded like either inside the engine or the starter area; I let it settle, kicked it again, same noise heard at the end of cycle; owner said it likely needs a new starter - I only hope it's this simple
pictures attached - the throttle cable / zip tie pic is my favorite - but it works! it was CRAZY dirty prior to pressure washing - and the water in air box is likely secondary to the power wash - no water was in it when purchased
gotta few things to complete on the king quad - will be changing motor/gear oil in honda and getting new oil filter over time - talk soon - hope y'all had a great Christmas
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
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I have a 1998 Yamaha big bear 350, new to this. When its cold it is very difficult to shift. Once its warm its ok, however, my old feet don't like the shifting. I saw on ebay a hand shifter conversion kit. Any advice, I live in the Low Country of SC no hills, I use the machine around the farm for corning and scouting.
I am desperately seeking some help from all of you on trying to locate a free download of a manual. One of the biggest problems that I have is that I'm very computer illiterate.
So if anybody can help me, by sending me a link to a free download on the manual that I am requesting. It would be much appreciated. Or if you can email it to me that would be the easiest for me. [email protected]
Thank you for your time, hope there's somebody out there that can help me.
Long story short, I have an lt160 with a quad racer swingarm. It needs new front pivot bearings. Whoever swapped the swingarm used pipe and stacks of washers to space it but it still seemed to have quite a bit of play. My question is how would I go about spacing it more "legit"?. It's just going to be a beater for around the farm but I don't want it totally cob jobbed. From the looks of it, it's just a matter of aligning it, measuring and finding something to shim the gaps. Correct me if I'm wrong or if there's a better or proper way to go about this. Also not sure what I would use for spacers. Any help/tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
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