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By Frank Angerano
So i took a road trip today to look at a Suzuki Eiger! 2006 in perfect condition other then the fact it starts for 30 seconds and shuts down.
Its been sitting for about a year in a shed.
It has a plow and a winch included!!!
Got it for a really good price and all looks good so far.
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
I picked up a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 850. The previous owner rarely rode it and it only had 53 miles on it (10 hours). I believe the Polaris break in period is something like 250 miles / 50 hours or something like that at which point they suggest doing the first oil and fluid change. My question is should I do it sooner than that? I believe this was manufactured in fall of 2016 so that means the fluids in there are 3 years old. Maybe that isnt a big deal and it is still fine to wait until 50 hours, but just wanted to check
I have a 425 Magnum that idles great but seems to flood out when I rev it up, sputters, backfires a little somtimes. No water in gas, good fuel filter, carb seems to be fine, good working diaphram. Plug change makes no difference whatsoever.
By Cj Winds
I have a 2000 Polaris Xplorer with the 250 two stroke motor
It does not want to start with the electric start, the motor cranks fast, the battery is good, and there is good spark when cranking. The engine starts perfect when using the pull cord, it even starts if I pull the cord slowly and starts with one pull. The engine idles smoothly once started. My wife says she needs the electric start to work.
Similar Tagged Content
I need to know what I have and what tire really go on it, Mine has 24x11x10 on the back and 22x8x10 on the front and I need new tire but I don't think are the right size. Also I can't find the model number listed but it looks like a 250 quadrunner 2wd and I think it is a 1987 maybe, can anyone help me, also I it has a rich running sound and I put a carb diap in it and cleaned the carb. is there a jet needing replaced?
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
Having a strange issue with the headlights on my Kodiak. Noticed there are no high beams, and when I switch back to low beam the lights stay off. The low beams will come on, only if I go from off to low. This is what I have going on:
From Off to Low - Lights Work
From Low to High - No lights
From High to Low - No Lights
Back to Off and to low - Lights work again.
Just curious if anyone has had a similar issue, or where I should start troubleshooting.
i have a 2009 grizzly 700,replaced the fuel pump and filter,replaced the spark plug and checked the air filter for a mouse house! it runs then shuts down,wont stay running,does the fuel line need to be primed and air free to run properly or am i missing something obvious??????????????
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