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By Erik Plug
Picked up my first Brute Force yesterday. What should have been an awesome afternoon of riding turn a bit into a deception. As I was unable to really take it out for a test drive at the shop, I decided to buy it and agreed that I would take the test drive at home.
When giving full throttle I noticed that the Brute was choking and lost all of its powers. Faulty fuel pump most likely.
Called the shop and the are coming to pick it up and repair it and bring it back. Good service. Nevertheless feels a bit sour in the mouth as I was told it was a 100% good.
Need to have some patience I now before I can really start riding.
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
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My wife has a well used 325 Trail Boss and recently she noticed there is a distinct rhythmic clicking or popping noise that sounds like its coming from the chain/ sprocket area. Increases with speed and happens in fwd or reverse.
I jacked up the rear of the quad and rotated the tires and there is no sound when the drivetrain is unloaded. Any suggestions on what this could be or how to troubleshoot? Im new to 4-wheelers, so this might be something pretty simple but I just dont have much experience working with them.
Would appreciate any help or suggestions
How do I know when to replace them? I know it should seem easy and obvious, but I'm really at a loss here. My chain, when held sideways in mid-air, bends at a curved 90 degree angle. It seems pretty loose , i.e. everything moves kinda side to side. I'm guessing thats bad, however my sprockets look better. The rear sprocket has no curved teeth, however it is showing signs of slight wear because on one side of the tooth it is slightly curved and the other side it is slightly flat. Also, the front sprocket has slightly hooked teeth, but they are still thick. If all this stuff is "slightly", can I just leave it? Also, the rear sprocket hub has a couple cm's of free play forwards and backwards on the axle. Is that bad too? The chain seems like its the worst of all, but people tell me to not just replace the chain, but also the sprockets. I have three machines and cant afford to do that. Advice?
On my dirt bike, the chain is exactly the opposite of the one on my YFZ. It is sturdy, and nothing really moves; however it seems so "sturdy" that the chain gets kinked in some areas. Instead of replacing the chain, can I just give it a quick oil and be done with it?
Hello All, The KYRider site I was a member of for years has shut down. So, here I am. I currently own a 450 Kodiak with several mods and some yet to be installed. Tomorrow, I will look at a Blaster thats in great shape. It starts and runs great. However, It will not go into gear. Im pretty sure I can fix this relatively cheap. I have not priced Blasters in years but the asking price is $600 firm. Is this reasonable? Thanks,
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