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By Shawn Hurt
I have a 2013 KQ I bought it new but rolled it a few years ago. I have replaced the left lower A-arm and left tie rod, the steering is still a little sketchy as I just eye balled the alignment. But the major issue is the left front tire cambers out at the top and has wore the tire bald. Tires have about 2000 miles on them but other 3 are half tread and left front is a slick.. I can not see anything else bent and don't know what to do..
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
I am new to this forum and hope that someone out there can help me, I have an early Suzuki King Quad 300 (280cc) which starts intstantly every time but at about half revs or there abouts it starts spluttering and will not rev any higher, this fault is present whether choke is applied or not, some one suggested that silencer maybe be clogged so removed baffle but no improvement have removed carb and stripped 3 times but still no joy.
Any ideas would be most welcome.
1987 Suzuki LT 80 and 2007 Honda CRF 50 dirt bike stolen out of my driveway on July 4th. Anyone with info that recovers them will get $400 no questions asked.
The post Suzuki LT 80 Quad And Honda Dirt Bike appeared first on STOLEN 911.
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replacing carb,, the bigger line on right side top of carb does it just vent to the air,, cant find where to hook it up to also I want to check the oil and gear oil I checked the oil in motor and the rear end my question is looks like allen plug on left side of motor if you are setting on the 4 wheller, ps it hs a oli leak any help would be great. Ray in kentucky
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My wife has a well used 325 Trail Boss and recently she noticed there is a distinct rhythmic clicking or popping noise that sounds like its coming from the chain/ sprocket area. Increases with speed and happens in fwd or reverse.
I jacked up the rear of the quad and rotated the tires and there is no sound when the drivetrain is unloaded. Any suggestions on what this could be or how to troubleshoot? Im new to 4-wheelers, so this might be something pretty simple but I just dont have much experience working with them.
Would appreciate any help or suggestions
How do I know when to replace them? I know it should seem easy and obvious, but I'm really at a loss here. My chain, when held sideways in mid-air, bends at a curved 90 degree angle. It seems pretty loose , i.e. everything moves kinda side to side. I'm guessing thats bad, however my sprockets look better. The rear sprocket has no curved teeth, however it is showing signs of slight wear because on one side of the tooth it is slightly curved and the other side it is slightly flat. Also, the front sprocket has slightly hooked teeth, but they are still thick. If all this stuff is "slightly", can I just leave it? Also, the rear sprocket hub has a couple cm's of free play forwards and backwards on the axle. Is that bad too? The chain seems like its the worst of all, but people tell me to not just replace the chain, but also the sprockets. I have three machines and cant afford to do that. Advice?
On my dirt bike, the chain is exactly the opposite of the one on my YFZ. It is sturdy, and nothing really moves; however it seems so "sturdy" that the chain gets kinked in some areas. Instead of replacing the chain, can I just give it a quick oil and be done with it?
Hello All, The KYRider site I was a member of for years has shut down. So, here I am. I currently own a 450 Kodiak with several mods and some yet to be installed. Tomorrow, I will look at a Blaster thats in great shape. It starts and runs great. However, It will not go into gear. Im pretty sure I can fix this relatively cheap. I have not priced Blasters in years but the asking price is $600 firm. Is this reasonable? Thanks,
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