Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
I recently read an article about restoring or at least improving the looks of faded and discolored plastic body parts. In the article it suggested using a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner. You mix it up and apply it with a brush or rag to rub it in and remove the oxidation. I curious to find out if anyone has had experience with doing this and what was their short/long term results of doing so. I would hate to try it and find out that a few weeks/months down the road my plastic body parts self destruct.
By Bronson Weddle
I have a 1999 250 Yamaha bear tracker was told it needed a coil to run got into it to day found out that the kill switch was wired together then I found were they put a new cdi on it they cut all the plugs off the stator wires and the cdi wires I found bits and pieces of wireing diagrams blue pick up wire to red and white green wire to white and green wire rolled it over Had a test light on the coil wire it showed there was juice going to it but no spark on the plug and the coil is a brand new one put it on before trying to test the spark did I miss something or have something hooked up wrong already have plans on a new cdi and stator and pick up coil before I go that far like to hear it run. Thank you for the help in advance
Similar Tagged Content
I was riding my 400ex one day and when i shut it off to put it in the garage i tried to start it put again to drive it into the garge and it wouldnt start.I put a compression tester on it and its like 30 psi with out throttle and 0 psi WITH THROTTLE.
when i put my finger over the hole it fell likes its pulling my finger in more then its pushing it out
Has good spark.When i took it into the shop the said it had 1oz of oil in it and a tiny pit of metal shaving(TINY BIT LIKE 30 flakes)
When i try to pull start (push start/roll start) it made a not normal sound and wouldnt stay running.
If my bottom end is blow why would it still turn over fine,
Are my valves siezed or not working properly
or is my timing off causeing valves to not open in correct order with fire
PLEASE HELP all help is appreciated
By Coral Breding
I loosened the allen bolts on the carrier and when I went to put my driver in the alot to pull back and tighten the chain, I noticed the holes were facing the front of the bike. I tried to slide a driver in and tighten the chain but the thing would not budge. I nearly ripped the tip off the driver in the slot. Any suggestions?
By Jordan Alexander
The title is for attention. I’m prepping my cylinder head off of an unknown year 400ex to install on my quad. And I’m examining it and there’s literally a Jewish start( Star of David) protruding from the metal on the camshaft side of the head. It’s not imprinted or etched/ engraved. It’s coming out of the metal. DOES ANYONE HAVE INFORMATION ON WHY ITS THERE??? I’ve attached a picture
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.