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So few months ago I acquired a 01 Explorer 4x4 (think its a 350 but not sure)
Anyway the owner said it started reving very high, shut the key off and still kept running
until finally he shut off fuel and it finally died. During the run away he said the exhaust got
red hot and has melted plastics to prove it. Said some thing flew out the tail pipe, I kinda figured
it was the top of the piston. Anyway finally got around to looking at it (have a lot of other projects in the works)
and checked the compression, Shows about 40 psi. Can hear air coming out the carb while rotating the motor over.
Gonna pull it apart eventually, don't hear any noises or binding in the stroke, You think the piston came apart?
any horror stories of these and is it worth my effort and money? Don't really have any money in it yet. Thoughts? Az
I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
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By Guest Fox300exchic
If we had a dollar for every time the question “Which is really faster, the 700 or the 450?” shows up in our inbox, mailbox, or voicemail, we’d be putting this magazine together from a bungalow on a barely inhabited tropical isle named Quadhama.
I live in Minnesota and bought a 2016 CFORCE 500 HO. I am in hope to see if there is anyone in the US that is experiencing this sudden drop off in RPM below 4000 RPM. I have uploaded some videos of my issue on YouTube. I will list three of the four I posted. The fourth can be found on my channel but it is a comparison between my Polaris 570 and my CFORCE 500.
I quit on my first dealer because we just did not mix well together. I brought it to another CFMOTO dealer that just became a CFMOTO dealer in January 2016. They are in a large ranch and agriculture area in a neighboring state that is pretty close to where I live. They have close to every brand available. They are a much larger dealer than the first one I bought the unit from.
I brought the unit three weeks ago to them and they have worked on it a good solid week and have given up on it. I have read reports from owners in Canada that the dealers there were aware of the issue and have had success in fixing the herky jerky drivability issue.
I am picking it up tomorrow and bringing it back home. It has been to the trails of the Black Hills this year and was new in late April. 300 miles on it. It has never changed. Very hard to ride on the trails or when I herd livestock.
Here are the links to my videos.
I can't accept that this is normal operation. Does anyone from CFMOTO China scan these posts?
I need help that CFMOTO USA has not provided.
Thank you for your help, just got quad for my daughter n needs a little work [email protected]
It's actually a 2002 , just found serial number. Thanks for any help that you can !
I have a really dumb question. My big bear came half apart and I am not sure how the timing chain guide is supposed to sit in there. I have the entire top end cleaned, bored, new piston, gaskets, etc. I do not see anywhere in any manual or thread where it shows how the chain guide is installed or held on place????? Also should it be the same height as the other side???
ok it will start up an run but quits a lot till it gets warm, but has a bad miss an wont idle, I have a brand new Honda carb on it, good gas flow, new plug, but when I let the throttle go below a quarter, it backfires through carb an tail pipe:confused: so it has never had any electrical work or mechanical work done...it just started all the sudden, I'm think it may have ignition coil breaking down, or cdi box going bad...anyone had this trouble before? let me know what you did to fix it. thanks:skeptic:
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