Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

trestunt30

1988 Suzuki LT250R Piston Replacement

Recommended Posts

Hey quadcrazy im looking into but a suzuki lt250r but the guy said the piston needs to be replaced and he said it wont start. He is sale it for $500 dollars. Ifi do replace the piston do you all think it will run or are there more problems with it you think ?

Also i would like to say thank you to everyone who has helped me on this website i greatly appreciate it one love

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


if you replace the piston, you will need to hone the cylinder out and take a micrometer reading. i know there are 3-4 different size pistons for the bike for honing and wear. you might have to adjust the valves after for it to start and /or carb work. thats all i have ... sounds like a pretty good deal btw ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So its worth it ? and he did mention honing the cylinder i dont know about a micrometer reading but ill look it up and read and watch videos i appreciate the response greatly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
if you replace the piston, you will need to hone the cylinder out and take a micrometer reading. i know there are 3-4 different size pistons for the bike for honing and wear. you might have to adjust the valves after for it to start and /or carb work. thats all i have ... sounds like a pretty good deal btw ...

If he has a 88 LT250R than its a 2stroker Super easy to rebuild ! No valves involved !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


yes, easy to rebuild. but there will be a lot more than just a piston. if it has such bad compression that it will not run, it will need to have the cylinder bored oversize to get the cylinder walls straight. one of the problems, is as the cylinder wears (along with the piston) is the walls become egg shaped (top to bottom). in part because of all the ports (holes in which the fuel/air/oil mix moves thru the engine). and as the piston wears, and gets quite loose, it actually rocks enough to have actual metal to metal contact with the cylinder wall. much more then when it is new, and tight. this allows for even more, accelerated wear. now, the big deal, is, the cylinder can only be bored so far oversize. after it gets so large, it either has to be replaced, or bored very over sized, and a new sleeve installed, which will in turn need to be bored to a new stock sized piston. you will also need to replace the top end connecting rod bearing and piston pin. those are very important, and wear about as fast as the piston does. and all of the top end gaskets. finally, the bottom connecting rod bearing, will only last so long. if it is loose enough that you can feel ANY up and down play in the rod on the crankshaft, then a new connecting rod, pin and bearing will need to be fitted as well. that is called rebuilding the crankshaft. all of this together, is an expensive proposition. but when you are done, you will have an engine that will last a long time. at least as long as you do not forget to mix oil in with the fuel. 1/2 of a tank of straight fuel will ruin the engine! to replace the connecting rod, the entire engine will need to be torn down. and at that point, EVERYTHING needs to be looked at. every gear in the transmission, water pump, etc. etc. etc.. hopefully, you will be able to simply rebuild the top end, and be done with it, for now. but all of this is coming eventually. i am not trying to scare you off. but you should be forewarned as to what will come along down the pike. or, it may need it when you buy it. there is no way of knowing, until the engine is opened up. id did this kind of work for roughly 35 years, until i screwed my back up so bad i can no longer work. so i have a darn good idea what i am talking about. oh, just as an added side kick, there ARE valves in this engine. they are REED valves, in the bottom of the intake port, that help feed extra fuel/air mix to the engine, for added performance. they will need to be looked at as well. if there is the TINIEST of cracks in them, they will need to be replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By bradleyheathhays
      So this '02 Taurus with only 87k miles on her starts right up every time multiple times a day except for twice in the last 3 weeks. The first time was 3 weeks ago and the second was today. It happened the same both times. Turn the key and stop to let the pump prime, then when I turn to the start position the engine turns real slow and sort of in fits. Usually when a battery is low the engine turns slow but in rhythm. During my 2 starts the engine barely seemed to turn and the crankshaft rpm seemed to vary. On both starting events I let off the key and tried to start 2-3 times with rests in between. But then eventually on the 4th try it starts right up just as quickly as a normal start.

      I have No clue as to what might be causing this. Only thing I know to do is, next time it does this to put a voltage meter on the battery to see if it's weak. Actually though, because both events the engine ended up starting up like normal that would indicate something other than the batt. Electrically this car is a little odd though. The interior light never comes on when the doors are opened, for years, and then last week it comes on twice when one of the rear doors is opened.
    • By DUBLT
      Looking to purchase a windshield for my ATV, suggestions of what to buy with quality in mind and will fit without doing any modifications. 
    • By Kaj Colum
      Pushing the start button the engine turns and will forever without starting. But if I use the kick start it will start with one or two kicks everytime, any idea as to what is going on. New good battery and coil, I'm ready to try anything. It's a great bike, but this is getting anoying. Thank you.
    • By Jon Emrich
      Does anybody out there have a link to the PDF manual download for a 1988 Suzuki Quadrunner LTD 4 x 4? If not does anybody have this on digital file they could possibly email to me or guide me in any direction to where I don't have to buy it? Thank you very much everybody in advance! Have a great day!
    • By Ted Aregi
      I've got a king quad 750cc has anyone converted the fuel pump relay to a stronger fuel pump relay on there king quad?
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By wHarmon
      Our 1988 Yamaha Terra Pro is finally seeing the finish line of becoming our new bush hogging tractor! I've had the terra pro for almost 2 years... we had great intentions, but after removing the fenders, fuel tank, and the carb, we let it sit up. Shame on us! However, the terra pro is cranking today. We cleaned the carb, figured out what goes where and where did that screw go! She smokes like there's no tomorrow, but that's okay! The only issue right now is getting all these lines hooked back up to the carb right! There is 5 lines to hook up to this thing!! And in our moment of drinking and removing parts, we cant remember how they go back on. I've found several diagrams online, but none showing the overall schematics of all the lines! If anyone has a service manual, or any way of helping us figure out what goes where I would really appreciate it!! I can attach pictures later if it'll help!
    • By alexcross324
      Hi all, I try to find this manual in the threads but you have a lot of stock here
      Cannot find this particular manual.
      I found it for YFM200 but not sure if they are the same.
      Thanks if you could help me with that.
      Im new here so if I did something wrong, please tell me.
    • By alexcross324
      Hi all, my second post here
      I got an old Yamaha 88 moto 4 and I have a problem with my overflow hose from the carb.
      When I put the gas switch to ON a big amount of gas is leaking from the overflow...so I start using my quad with the gas switch to RESERVE wich is also leaking but less than in ON position.
      I dont ride a lot..but in a week I empty my gas tank.
      Strange.
      I never clean my carb because Im new to quad world and dont have the service manual...so I need you point of view.
      Thanks guys!
    • By Jers
      I need to know what I have and what tire really go on it, Mine has 24x11x10 on the back and 22x8x10 on the front and I need new tire but I don't think are the right size. Also I can't find the model number listed but it looks like a 250 quadrunner 2wd and I think it is a 1987 maybe, can anyone help me, also I it has a rich running sound and I put a carb diap in it and cleaned the carb. is there a jet needing replaced?
    • By dboy910
      Ok new to group and new to quads. I picked up a 88 Big Bear for next to nothing but it has issues. The entire high low revers shifter has been removed. All I have is a bar attached to the linkage. I can shift into all three but I would like to replace or get suggestions. I have looked around but there is limited info or pictures on what I would need to buy or where it even mounts. Any pics of what where and how it works would be great. Or direct me to correct thread.
      Thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...