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The rear brakes on this are hydraulic and manual. The hydraulic part is all messed up so I disconnected it all and want to go just manual on the rear. I got it all put back together but doesn't seem to work to well, like not enough pressure. The manual says I should mark the casing before taking it apart which I didn't read until to late. Any ideas? I put new brake pads on.
I made my intro about a QuadRunner I was working on and found a multitude of problems. Most I fixed, but I'm thinking that I'll be making more trips to see the 90' LT-250/4WD. Age and needing regular attention is the reason. The owner, NOT being mechanically inclined, adds into the equation.
So, I deliver it and was offered, as payment, a 95' LT-250/4WD, with paper. It didn't run and had been sitting outside for last 12+ months. It was (basically) all there. This happened Saturday and this "Barn Find" came home to live out it's final years (I suspect).
Today I finally found time to look at her. Not a pretty sight. Rough life, many hrs....... MANY! Only 2399mi, but the speedo is disco'd. I just want to know if this will be worth pursuing. First things first, a really good cleaning. I hate working on dirty vehicles.
The battery actually took and held a charge! The carb was pulled, cleaned and the tank drained. Found a broken orange wire, dangling loose, near the carb. It was hot when the key was on and ended up connecting to a 10A fuse block. Well, I wonder why it didn't run???? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm!
Carb back on, fresh non-eth fuel, had to remove the air filter for this test (needs replacement), sprayed a little ether..... hit the starter, fired and died. Third time's a charm, she runs. I'll be going thru things as I can and questions will follow, in this thread.
Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires.... Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
I’m looking at breaking into the SxS scene and really want a 4 seater. BUT I also would like one that is 50” trail capable as well. I have small kids that need seats so we can all go play at one time. Looking around I’m just not seeing that there is one out there. Does anyone know if they do in-fact exist and maybe I’m just missing it?
Thanks for the help...
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I have a timberwolf that I love. It sat and the carb got gel from this wonderful ethanol. I cleaned it and put a new kit in it. it always started right off. now it cranks forever before it hits and then it will not idle. set according to instructions 23mm float, 4th notch on the pin, 1 1/2 turns out on the AIS. I have tried tweeking all of these some but nothing seems to make a difference. The biggest problem is that I got it back out because the wife has claimed this bike and now it will not run for her. Any help would sure get me out of a bind.
Please help i am currently a new owner of a very unloved quad owned by my recently deceased father in law.
i have no idea of the year model but it has both an electirc start and a pull start. the electirc start doesnt work i have got a new battery and new plug but still nothing.
im not a huge mechanical person but if i can get some help it would be greatly apreciated.
Alright so excuse the ignorance but this is my first carb break down. Got it broke down and cleaned good. But now my problem. I am not sure where to start on adjusting my jets and air fuel mix. Any help on factory settings as a starting point would be great. I have a general knowledge of how it functions and terminology I just need to know where to start
I have a 1994 Yamaha Timberwolf that has been a strong running machine until recently. This past year I replaced the pulsar coil which resolved a prior problem I was having. After running for several weeks without a hitch, I one day went out to start it and it would not. The starter motor is turning but it does not engage the engine. Can anyone suggest a remedy to get it running again?
I have gone over the whole electrical system while in the process of correcting the pulsar coil problem. I believe where I hear the starter motor turning the problem lies elsewhere; I think.
Hi i have a 94 Timberwolf 4x4.
I got it at the beginning of the summer and it ran great all summer apart for an idling issue.
I looked into it and i had oil in my air box and when i checked the dip stick it looks like it was overfllled.
I took some oil out of the motor jumped on the bike and put it in gear.. nothing.. it runs great but wont drive. i tried it again off the bike and it drove a few feet but once i gave it any kind of power it would act like it was in neutral even though i know it wasnt. i tried cycling the gears and in reverse but i wasnt getting anywhere. it acts like it is going into gear and cycling through them but i cant get power to the wheels. i tried taking more oil out of it and adding new oil to the bike and it seemed to make it feel like it was shifting into drive or reverse easier but it still wont drive..
i talked to the guy that does small engine work in my town (although he is always booked up for 3 months at a time) so i didnt bring it in yet but he said something about some locking pin that seems to break on these models that would actually keep it from engaging into gear.. its located on the inside of the lever that you push forward for drive or backwards for reverse (i think this may not be the problem since i did have it moving somewat with no weight on the bike).
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