Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

serious3

Restoring ATV Plastics

Recommended Posts

my big bear 400 has lived all its life outside in horrible weather, the plastics are in good shape but very faded scruffy looking, is there anything i can put on them or use to restore them to their former glory?

plastics.jpg

plastics.jpg.6f50c1fe056be9fe0c885a263ae6f342.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


there are cleaners/restorers out there but very expensive. here is someting i found on you tube that i might try with my big bear .... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KevwAZutZwI]How to Restore Faded or Oxidized ATV Plastic - Fast & Easy - YouTube[/ame]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen people use bed liner and that looks really cool. We've been wanting to try it for awhile but haven't came across anything that really needed it yet. If you do try it (or something else), we would love to feature it on our website. The link is here, just in case you are interested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you scuff sand it with a fine grit, (id say 320+) sandpaper, clean them with technical grade isopropyl alcohol or acetone, and wipe them dry with a clean, low lint cloth, you should have no problems painting them.

I would advise using a paint with flex agents, such as Krylon fusion, regular rattle can will crack and flake off as soon as the plastics start flexing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


just to update you on this project, i've finished the renovation of the whole quad. to renovate the plastics i used a..................................blowtorch!!!!! gently heated the plastics till it looked wet, took 15mins to do the whole lot!!

quad finish!.jpg

57d77348687e2_quadfinish!.jpg.9deaad26401b3e79640387b7c16d0955.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

heat gun would work better, i'd imagine its a wider are of heat compared to the naked flame of the torch think i'll get one next time they are on offer at my local tool shop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


the blow torch is an interesting fix. so your saying a little heat to the plastics wil bring out the luster and maybe fix some scratches as well? i will vouch for the krlon fusion spray cans. i restored boat seats using that, takes along time to completely dry but lasted for yrs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

all you have to do is buff it with wax and clean the plastics the black plastics by the motor with arm and hammer tire shine will make the plastics look brand new and will prevent further fading that video that is so much more work and won't last

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the blow torch is an interesting fix. so your saying a little heat to the plastics wil bring out the luster and maybe fix some scratches as well? i will vouch for the krlon fusion spray cans. i restored boat seats using that, takes along time to completely dry but lasted for yrs.

it helps, it doesnt completely eliminate everything, but it can take out stress marks ...

small scratches will somewhat be hidden ,,, i used a heat gun, only because i dont trust myself with a flame (LOL) but you can do damage to the plstics too if you leave it on one spot too long with either ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


heat gun is the best method i have found. The darker the color the better the results. There is a video on UTUBE using boiled linseed oil and paint thinner. If you want to have $10 less and a half a can of boiled linseed oil on you r chem-tool shelf , waste a couple of hours of precious life and have the plastics look exactly the same as they did be 4 started then thats the vid for you!. Dont ask me how i know, I would suggest that when using heat gun method-plastics should be attatched to the ATV. Other wise you could end up with a big plastic taco looking thing. The cheap plastic welder from HBF has some use as well as the heat gun $9.99 each. HBF staples only fit staple gun that does NOT exist, so take the staples and break off a length, place them over a large break or crack, heat them and press them into plastic to hold 2 pieces together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it would be nice to find a product, a liquid in a can, that you could just wipe on and off with a cloth that causes a subtle chemical reaction with the plastic to revitalize it ... oh there it is, just behind that unicorn LOL ... soon maybe ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
just buff it with wax and on the black plastics by the motor use tire shine it will look like a brand new bike

"RESTORING" plastics implies to me that they are damaged beyond wash and wax. SCRATCH,FADED AND OXIDIZED.:confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Richard Paradise
      My 1997 Beg Bear got stuck in 2nd Gear when parked on slight hill, otherwise in perfect shape. Trying to get it into neutral, by rocking it back and forth won't release out of gear.
      Any suggestions, It's my work horse and I keep it in to shape, got to get it running..
    • By BuckBilly
      Good morning to all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      Let's see if we can make this a daily event.
    • By Gary Ferguson
      My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck. 
      Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again. 
      Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short. 
      Here are my readings:
      Source coil- 325 ohms
      Pickup coil- 225
      Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
      I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
      Thanks,
      Gary in SC
    • By Scott Matthews
      Just picked up a 1989 Big Bear 350 for $250 CAD. Bike was running but lost crank and spark. They've installed a new coil, a couple relays, and installed a Ford starter solenoid in place of the original. Now it cranks but has no spark so they sold it to me. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike so I can test some wiring. Also any ideas as to direction to head would be nice. Lots of things have been hacked together so I know it probably wont be to easy. The ignition switch was replaced with a toggle switch, I already mentioned the Ford solenoid which 1 of the small wires was not re-installed, and a diode or something was removed from the oil temp sensor wire. I'm sure I will find more so a diagram would be amazing.
    • By Dave Ayoub
      Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened. 
      Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left. 
      After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
      If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power. 
      I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
      does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
      when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing. 
       
      Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking? 
       


  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Ajmboy
      Was looking online and found this video I thought was interesting. The guy in the video is using a 60/40 paint thinner to boiled linseed oil mix to restore the plastic on his Kodiak. The youtube comments have mixed reviews.

       
       
      Has anyone used a product that works?
       
    • By Jquest
      I just picked up a raptor and the plastics are all faded. I would like to repaint them but not sure where to start. What are the steps to paint my plastics? I want to make sure the paint will not damage especially if I  spill gas on it. Thanks I’m advance!
    • By New2quad
      I cant find replacement plastics for a yamoto 70cc quad... i have searched high and low. I appreciate and help. Thanks!
    • By SunLrider
      i was just wondering why plastics for anything is like 400 bucks a set! its crazy!!!!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...