Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Bikerbob

Part it out or fix it?

Recommended Posts

I have a 1987 Yamaha 220cc 2/4 the engine needs a cdi, needs brakes, all the plastic is in great shape and has all controls and switches new tires on front new magneto and pick up coils, new coil, and front wheel bearing. Tis is a four lug hubs front and back. I just removed the rear pumpkin and it was full of mud not oil. It turns freely though. My Delma is should I fix this unt or should I just part it out for another Yamaha?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


you could probably get a new cdi off ebay for a reasonable price, and if the pot is cleaned and refilled, you are probably ok given the fact that everything moves well inside ,,, just my 2 cents. you could sell it for more running than parting it out and dont have to keep everything around until it sells ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dimelol
      I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. 
      So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got.  This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
      Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
      Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
      Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within the specified range.
      Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within specified range.
      Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) 
      My reading was 0.3 Ω
    • By RCNY1
      Seems impossible to find a pair of front shocks for my 02 Yamaha Kodiak,newer or older listings are they the same as a big bear ?  Factory are $245 each !!! Any help appreciated 
    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By davefrombc
      View File Quad Runner 250 King Quad 1987 - 1998
      Service manual  for  King quads  250  and 300
      Submitter davefrombc Submitted 01/28/2017 Category Suzuki ATV  
    • By Stacy Hanks
      I have  2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Connor Tuftin
      I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
      My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
    • By Steven Workman
      So I have a Honda Fourtrax 300 year 1988. The ignition doesn’t start it with no sound. The headlights won’t turn on. It has a brand new charged battery, fuses are good, oil is good, gas is good, reverse is rusted, it shifts good, won’t jumpstart but when you try it will turn over, it will start if you jump the solenoid give it gas and spray starter fluid on the breather but it won’t stay on long but will stay on for the little time it does by itself. I don’t know what’s wrong and I need help!
    • By kfx450r
      Well..got these nerfs for free with my bike so Id rather be able to fix these stupid nets than to buy new ones. The nets dont go under the shifter..every other nerf bars ive seen in person have..only these dont and i hate my foot being open when shifting. Its the same on both sides. Heres a pic

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...