Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Colin Davis
Does anybody know where I can buy a complete wiring harness for a Yamaha bear tracker. If not could someone send me a picture of the the colors of the wires coming out of the cdi plug and voltage rectifier. So I can get an idea of how I need to wire it. Also where can I find a wiring diagram for them?
By Colin Davis
I recently acquired a Yamaha bear tracker 250 that does have a wiring harness. Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 250s. Also if you have a pin diagram that tells be the colors of the wires going to the cdi and rectifier or just a picture of the plugs would be much appreciated. I can’t find anything on the harness online. I have all of the switches and stuff and I plan on just build a harness myself because I can’t find one to buy.
So few months ago I acquired a 01 Explorer 4x4 (think its a 350 but not sure)
Anyway the owner said it started reving very high, shut the key off and still kept running
until finally he shut off fuel and it finally died. During the run away he said the exhaust got
red hot and has melted plastics to prove it. Said some thing flew out the tail pipe, I kinda figured
it was the top of the piston. Anyway finally got around to looking at it (have a lot of other projects in the works)
and checked the compression, Shows about 40 psi. Can hear air coming out the carb while rotating the motor over.
Gonna pull it apart eventually, don't hear any noises or binding in the stroke, You think the piston came apart?
any horror stories of these and is it worth my effort and money? Don't really have any money in it yet. Thoughts? Az
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
Similar Tagged Content
This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
i was wondering if i could get some help. i been trying to locate where the fuel and air adjustment screws are located on my 95 kodiak 400. i think i found the fuel screw.. i know where the throttle adjuster is but i cant find the air screw. or is there an air adjustment on these carbs?
I have a 94 sportsman 400. It sat for several years before i got it. I have cleaned the carb it will start and run for about 5 min then it will flood. I have torn it down and cant see anything wrong. has anyone else ran into this problem any hel would be great.
My 2005 Arctic Cat 500 started leaking fuel from the top right hand side of the carb. It looks and feels that the fuel is coming from under the throttle cable housing area just above the primer pump. I have not had time to take carb off. Has anyone had a leak on this side and area of their carb?
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.