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Here is what I have collected over the years and maybe it will help someone else.
There are so many and several are too large to upload as attachments, so see any thing you need just shoot me a PM and your email and I will get them on the way to you as fast as I can.
50cc to150cc Service Manual For Tank Motorsports.pdf
1986 CH250 ELITE SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
Charging and ignition systems for atvs.pdf
Chinese ATV Frame Diagram.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Clutch Diagram - Exploded Views.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Cylinder Head Diagrams.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Torque Specifications.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Valve Clearances.jpg
Eagle ATV Fender Body Parts Exploded Diagram.jpg
Eagle ATV Rear Axle - Exploded Diagram.jpg
Piston Ring Installation 4 Stroke Engines.jpg
Trouble Shooter Guide for BATTERY DRAINED Chinese Engines.txt
Trouble Shooter Guide for NO-COMPRESSION.txt
Trouble Shooting No Crank.txt
50 to 150cc GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Arrow 150 Engine Service Manual.pdf
Eton Shop Manual YXT-150.pdf
GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Yerf Dog Spiderbox GX150 Service Manual.pdf
By Frank Angerano
I’ve decided to post a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly. There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along. We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic. List of things I use: Safety glasses !!! Rags. I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones. I like to use a frisbee turned upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench. A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached) A can of gum out carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. (Pic attached) A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip. (Pic attached) A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long. A few Q tips. The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat. This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white. I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up. It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back. I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside. Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside. If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing ! When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak. Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well. Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring. After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray. I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port. Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner. After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor. Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube. There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated. Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside. I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area. Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw. Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface. I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle. Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets. Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike. Install the float and fill needle assembly. Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop. Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again. The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it. If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it. Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good. There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall. Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly. I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor upside down to see if the air stops. Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go! All pics of the items I use are attached below. If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners. You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right. The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running. This is a relatively easy task. Again I hope this helps! Frank.
For some of us that live in the northern states with brutal winters, spring often means warmer weather and the ability to run a garden hose without the fear of water freezing up. For everyone in more warmer climates or those in the southern states that have never even seen snow, you may already be using your garden hose or power washer all year long 😁! So in the spirit of Spring and Spring Cleaning, we decided to take a look at what products exist out there specifically for ATV cleaning, washing off the mud, and general care. ATV bodies are plastic in most cases, and it's important not to use abrasive chemicals or hard brushes, so you don't scuff up the plastic...let the trail riding do that for you, you won't get a shortage of scratches from all the trees and branches if you're riding in the woods! For those of you that like to do some ATV mud'ing, you've probably already adopted a routine for cleaning your ATV after mud-bogging a bit and may have a favorite product you already use. Some even use basic soap and water or a basic car wash. Hey, if it works for you great!
For the purpose of this article, we are going to look at some of the items available on the market and encourage our members to reply with what they use and what they like. Don't forget to let us know where you buy it. You can buy car wash products in stores like Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, and Walmart and also online auto parts sellers like Auto Anything, Auto Barn, and Amazon. Let's take a look at some OffRoad ATV Washes...
Slick Off-Road Wash, 32oz
Removes heavy dirt and mud Won't strip lubrication Safe on bearings, paint, plastics, and metal surfaces Biodegradable Non-corrosive Currently available on Amazon for $24.99 which is the same price on the manufacturer's website https://www.slickproductsusa.com but you'll get free shipping if you are a prime member. Slick products free shipping is over $75.
X-Tream Clean XTC01-1 MX ATV Wash - 1 Gallon
Spray and rinse No brushing and scrubbing required Removes mud, dirt, grease and general grime Safe on all surfaces Biodegradable, non-corrosive and phosphate free Currently available on Amazon for $22.48 but if you check out the manufacturer's page and buy from them, it' $15.95!
Chemical Guys CWS20264 Tough Mudder Truck Wash Off Road and ATV Heavy Duty Soap Oz-1/2 Gal, 64. Fluid Ounces
Surface-Release additives repel future mud, dirt, and filth for easier cleaning Perfect for dirt bikes, quad bikes, mudder trucks, ATVs, and dune buggies Safe for use on paintwork, glass, metal, plastic, engines, and undercarriage parts Versatile formula works in bucket wash, foam gun, and high pressure foam cannon pH-balanced formula does not strip wax or sealant coatings 1/2 Gallon is currently available on Amazon for $23.99, but the manufacturer has is for $21.99 on their website but you'll most likely have to pay shipping.
Alco Dirt Bike and ATV Wash 1 Gallon
ALL NATURAL cleaning product Safe on the machine, safe for the environment Will not tarnish aluminum parts or damage seals Currently available on Amazon for $34.90 with free shipping but check the website where it sells for $19.98 but you'll most likely pay shipping unless you order over $99.
Hopefully for those that were not aware of specific ATV washes, this gives you some idea of what is out there. Keep your ATV clean by washing down the plastics, undercarriage/frame and tires. Some go as far as little tire protectant and shine as well as plastic protectant. However you do it, have fun and think of it as prepping your ATV for the next ride...don't leave a dirty ATV in the garage!
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Billy went all out and bought N2deep Snorkels, Rubber Down customs Rad kit and Rox speed fx Risers for his Grizzly 700. It took a solid 3 days in the shed to install all this new gear on Billys Yamaha grizzly 700! We cant wait for the next time we get out and go on a run! should be this week actually! gonna be good to get the Yamahas grizzlys and Kodiak together!
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By Zacharia Maisonneuve
i have a 1993 timberwolf yamaha and the compression is good and lights work but for some reason the electricity is not going to the spark plug(s)! i got a friend to check it out and they said its no use but im not giving up! please help with this!
By Connor Tuftin
I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
By Resurgence Small Engine Inc.
Not satisfied with the commercially available versions, Jonathan recently built an ATV spring compressor.
In this video, he demonstrates using it to remove & re-install the spring on an ATV coil-over shock absorber.
Mistake in video - the coil-over shock is not quite a McPherson strut.
If you are inspired to build your own spring compressor, feel welcome to use any ideas from this video.
Thanks for watching! Resurgence Small Engine Inc.
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