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I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
By Richard Western
I am hoping someone might be able to help me out. My Kawasaki 300 4x4 has an issue where it doesn't seem to want to go into neutral and also it will shift into reverse without using the lockout knob.
If anyone can suggest what to look at it would be very much appreciated.
New to me xpress i believe shuts down when put into reverse, but if i hold the override button it will remain running.
This is not normal operation based on my scramblers i've owned before. She also grinds when i attempt to select high gear and wont engage. lastly she runs great in low gear . I dont know how to fix this or where to begin my troubleshooting. 1994 polaris 300 2x4 thanks in advance for any suggestions/solutions
By Mark Hill
Hi everyone bought my son a project wheeler and got it up and running but it won’t go in reverse. It’s a 2002 2003 bombardier rally 200. I have been searching for causes on line had have a couple ideas what it may be but still looking for advice and help
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I have a 94 sportsman 400. It sat for several years before i got it. I have cleaned the carb it will start and run for about 5 min then it will flood. I have torn it down and cant see anything wrong. has anyone else ran into this problem any hel would be great.
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What happened? Why did this happen when fuel ran out?
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