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By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
Hi guys I'm in the market for a new ATV. I narrowed my choices down to King quad 750 Grizzly 700 and Rubicon 520, I own a 2006 500 Rubicon right now and I like the reliability and power for plowing. However it is not a capable ATV. When quading with other guys it falls short with ride quality and ground clearance. I also have a 500 King Quad 2015 which I like and will keep it for my wife. It is very strong and reliable also. However my plan is to sell my Honda Rubicon and replace it with a 2020 of one of the these mentioned above. Can anyone give me their take on one or all of these machines and why you picked what you picked?
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A week ago I could not even get close to starting it. But now I adjusted the valves (exhaust valve was not closed). i got it running but would not run without choke. i adjusted the float because it was to low tried starting it up again and it would not even start. So i went back and looked at the valves and the valve was now open again so i adjusted it and it started right up and ran perfect without choke. So i put it all back together thinking it was ready to go. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. i turned it off and tried starting it again there was NOTHING. took it apart and there was 0 compression and the exhaust valve was open again. I am completely lost need help PLEASE!!!:aargh:
I have a 94 sportsman 400. It sat for several years before i got it. I have cleaned the carb it will start and run for about 5 min then it will flood. I have torn it down and cant see anything wrong. has anyone else ran into this problem any hel would be great.
Turn on key, put it in Neutral, lights on steering column light up. NO head lights and the electric start switch will not work. Let is sit for a few hours, started right up. Sat over night and same issue. Checked fuses and they were good. Battery is giving 12 volts. Opened up the ignition assembly and it isnt getting any power it comes up as a .01 on the volt meter. Pulled the spark plug to check for spark and NO spark. Will not pull start either. Unhooked the battery checked the spark while trying to pull start it and got a weak spark.
Pushed it into the garage and it sat for 2 days. Turned the key and pushed the start button and it cranked but the spark plug wire was off so plugged the spark plug back in and pushed the start button and nothing. If you jump the solenoid it will crank over but not start. Soo confused , anyone have any ideas?
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