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So My 07 Kymco Mongoose 300 was having a bit of choke issue and I have an Ultrasonic and decided to dip it in for a good clean up,and now the atv don’t want to start,it tried but it backfired a little bit but still won’t start,any suggestions?
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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
Thought i would share a fix that I came across. I was working on a 99 scambler 500, The customer complaint was that even with the fuel shut off the tank would slowly drain out onto the ground. First I found the fuel shut off was bad/ leaking/ dripping so I installed a new one thinking that would fix it. Then I ran it and and seen that the overflow was flowing fuel out from the bowl. So I cleaned the needle and seat and changed the float height to lower the fuel level in the bowl. Well... It still overflowed and flooded. So I bench tested the needle and seat with a pop off tester. I found that these newer style needle and seats just utilize an o-ring to install the brass seat into the carb.
The o-ring for the seat had hardened up allowing fuel into the float bowl from under the seat. New o-ring and problems solved.
This past weekend the 2019 ATV Motocross Championship (ATVMX) Series, an AMA National Championship, took over Loretta Lynn Ranch in Hurricane Mills, Tennessee. Hot and humid conditions greeted the AMA Pro ATV athletes, and the cloud coverage that graced the facility seemed to disperse as the riders lined the gate for moto one. Eighteen riders took to the gate for the penultimate round of racing.
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The thing sat since Christmas 2018 and while I decided whether to replace the starter (which I finally did today). I am not sure if I added fuel stabilizer or not but chances are good I did. I kept the one year-old battery well charged during the winter. It turns over well but won't start. I have a blue spark on a brand new plug. When I pour a bit of fuel down the cylinder, the engine starts and runs for a few seconds (once for as long as about 8 sections) and then dies. Even before adding fuel to the cylinder I noticed that the spark plug was wet with fuel.
The air filter looks a bit dirty so I removed it just to see if the engine would start better but it made no difference.
If the fuel did not contain stabilizer then the carb may be gummed up. I don't really want to remove the carb to do a thorough cleaning. Is there a product I can spray into the carb while the engine turns over that will clean the carb?
Any other suggestions?
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