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By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
By Mike Johnson
Does anyone know what the 3rd item is behind the battery on this ATV ? I know 1 is the, solenoid1 is the CDI box, what is the 3rd.
By Daniel Gibson
Working on a bayou 220 that has been ran extremely hard it's whole life. Literally had almost an inch thick dirt/oil covering the motor. Yeah that bad. Surprisingly it runs though. I cleaned the carb and tank multiple times. They're clean enough to eat off of. Readjusted valve lash and set timing. Was about 3 teeth off. It cranks good and runs good only problem is I have to cover the carb intake basically choking the hell out of it for it to start. The com choke works fine. It does this each time I start it regardless of temperature both ambient or motor. Wth? Compression is at 115psi I get 130s if I put a little oil in the piston chamber. Please help. Thanks
My Honda Fourtrax won't start. The starter is kicking the engine over, but it won't start. It sat for about a year while I was living away, so I thought it might have been bad gas. I completely drained the fuel, flushed the fuel lines and filled it with fresh gas. However, still nothing. It started and ran fine the last time I used it. Any suggestions on how to diagnose this? It could be fuel or electrical at this point. Is there an easy way to rule one or the other out? Thanks
Hi there i was needing to ask a question. I may soon be getting a UTV of one sort or another and not sure what is good or better to avoid? So far i hear great things about the Arctic Cat Prowler and Havoc, and many speak well of the Kawasaki Mule all but the 610?
So what are your thoughts and especially experiences? What have you had and used in farm life and trail riding that has held up well or hasn't?
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Hey guys, I sure hope someone can help me out here...
A few weeks ago, while we were out riding, Mini-Me's four wheeler started acting up. Anything above about ¼ throttle would make it bog real bad and if you didn’t back off the gas it would shut off. Seemed like it was starving for gas or air. No obvious fix on the trail so took it home figuring it was a fouled carb.
Took the carb off; not serviceable. Put it back on and the problem was gone. All I did was unbolt it, pull it out, cuss about the shaved screw heads, and put it back. Ran fine for a few days then did it again. Took carb off and put back on again (hell, it worked last time) and while I was at it I bought a good plug and replaced that. Didn’t fix it this time.
Ordered a new carb under waranty. Company took three weeks to send me the wrong part.
I ordered a new one myself which showed up Friday. Saturday morning I had him ride it pre-replacement to verify issue was still there; it was. Anything over ¼ gas it would bog and die.
Replaced carb (fyi – slightly larger – 20mm new vs. 19mm stock) and it was back up and running. Better then before, seemed a little quicker and sounded MUCH better.
For a few hours… Then the bog and stall came back. Below is everything I tried last night –
Took fuel line from tank straight to carb – bypassed filter/petcock – no change
Took crankcase line (that is hooked to the air filter with a check valve in-line) off case – no change
Took air filter completely off – no change
Gassed it until it started acting up and then started shutting down the choke (to much air?) – no change
Held the back end up (now it’s not “under load”) and revved it up – no change
Adjusted the idle up close (doing it by ear) to where it wanted to cut out when using the throttle – continued to idle fine; no bog. Blipped the throttle and it bogged down.
I’m going to go get a can of starter fluid to check for air leaks around intake, some carb cleaner to clean up the carb, and a new fuel filter to replace Chinese one. Don’t expect any of that to fix it, but ruling things out.
Also; this may not be related but….
The battery on this thing is a POS. When we pull it out in the morning it doesn’t have the juice to crank it, gotta “boost” it for ~5 min. before it will crank. Usually once boosted and we get it started it’s good the rest of the day. Well yesterday he shut it off and when he tried to start it again it wouldn’t bust off. I did a little investigating and discovered that if you hit the starter and give it some throttle it acts like the battery is dead (slow turnover, wont fire). But once you let off the gas, it spins over slow a time or two (clearing the pressure?) and then the revs start to pick up and it will start. Almost like it’s over pressure in the cylinder if you open the throttle…
Because of the above I’m thinking maybe an exhaust valve issue??? To tight, not letting pressure out fast enough maybe? Maybe that’s causing the bog when you give it gas??? I’m going to get a set of feeler gauges and check/adjust the valve clearance.
Again, don’t expect a magic fix but it’s something to look at. I know these things require periodic valve adjustment, but I can’t see it being out of whack at < 10 hours.
I was going to pull the plug, hook it up and ground it while I hit the starter to verify that I’m getting fire, but it starts and idles fine, so no sense in that. I’ll still pull to inspect (correct color, no oil, etc.) just for fun.
I don’t think it’s anything mechanical, symptoms/trouble shooting so far just don’t fit.
Which leaves electrical; the CDI boxes on these things are know issues, but 99% of the time they are good/no good. So why does it start/idle if that’s bad? I suppose it could be bad and only displaying once the revs come up, but that’s a LOOOOONG shot. Only $5 so if tonight’s tinkering doesn’t fix/isolate the issue I’ll probably get one just to say it’s been replaced.
Aside from the CDI there is a battery (for starting only), a magneto, a voltage regulator/rectifier, and a million electrical connections. I haven’t gone thru them all but I can’t believe it’s a bad connection or the magneto because of the repeatability of the problem. It doesn’t come and go on its own; it runs fine, then all of the sudden won’t come off idle without cutting out. Take the old carb off, put it back on; it’s fixed (for a while). Take the old carb off, put it back on, it’s not fixed. Take the old carb off, put a new one on; it’s fixed (for a while).
Which leads me back to mechanical, but I’ve checked (almost) all of that.
Small chance it’s the valve adjustment, but I’ll verify that tonight. If it jumped timing it would be jacked from idle so I don’t think that’s it, plus it showed up, went away, came back, etc... If timing was off it wouldn’t run at all, or would run like crap from idle on; correct?
Oh, also – When I started looking at it last night (right after it started acting up) the air intake (short, curved aluminum “tube” going from the carb to the head) was hot. REALLY HOT. Maybe he over heated it, but before I put the new carb on he test rode it cold and it still did it.
Short of a .40 thru the engine block, anything else you can think of? I’m running short on ideas after the above…
Has anyone tried the GPS XII Run Flat tires. We just got a set for hunting season and these are the best thing I have ever seen. If your looking for a tire that you don't have to worry about flats this is the tire. We have purchased many different brands for our machines over the years and nothing like these ever. A little on the pricy side but I have to say well worth every penny.
I bought this bike a few months ago running fine. Rode it once and things have been downhill from there. It started to cough while riding, then backfiring and stalling, eventually leading to not starting at all. The bike was sent to the shop for a carb service, rode it for 10 minutes, and now it is worse than ever. Bought a brand new carb for it, still will not start or run. The spark is intermittent. This video shows the best it has "run" in months: [ame]
[/ame]. At my wits end here, and months behind on bush work which is what the quad was bought for. PLEASE HELP!
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