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By Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones
All I have been through everything. Bought brand new.
Throttle safety switch
Cam and rockers
Fuel safety switch
Everything every forum has spoken of I've bought sealed airbox completely tight unplugged black wire on trans. I have literally done everything in the book.Checked oil today full of gas anyone no anything what might b wrong. Next I'm taking head off and making sure valves seat any ideas.
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
By Christian Smith
Recently bought a Polaris 425 Xpedition. Main issue is that the quad randomly misfires sometimes. ONLY does it at idle. Everything sounds good. What should I look for? Haven't checked the plug, seems a bit hard to get to, not sure. Headlights flicker at idle as well, is this a sign of a weak stator? Help?
By Stacy Hanks
I have 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
By Ryann Racho
So Id say about 2 years back I bought a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. off of my uncle. It ran perfectly, nothing wrong at all. I usually go mudding with it or just ride trails with buddies. So as you would assume, the quad is quite dirty from sitting for a few weeks.
STUTTERING PROBLEM: I noticed one day out of nowhere that in high gear at 15-20 MPH, I was already maxed out at 4500-5000 RPM It would get to 15-20 mph, max out on rpms and start sputtering. It sounded like it was basically acting like it couldn’t go any faster than this.
IDLING PROBLEM: I was fucking with the carberator the other day maybe thinking that is causing my sputtering, and now my idle will shoot up to 2600 on start usually, then I will turn the throttle adjustment down to the normal 1400. The rpms with then fluctuate 10-30 rpms back and forth repeatedly, it will then run for about another 30-60 seconds and the RPMs will slowly drop to about 900-1000 RPM and stall out. I replaced the carburetor and everything seems to be working perfect on that, no leaks and what not but it’s still acting strange. Also, I’ve noticed that when looking into the Electronic Throttle Control that two plates that aren’t supposed to touch have to be WAY past touching to even try to fire up. Even when set at a wide open throttle like that, I still have to give it some throttle to get it to fire up.
Here is what I have done so far:
Checked the belt and clutch
Changed out spark plug (Last one was covered in carbon)
Cleaned the intake and air box
Replaced the carburetor
Replaced the inline fuel filter
Checked that all lines on carburetor are connected into the right spots
Checked If intake boot was cracked (Not from what I can see)
Unhooked and reattached new carburetor (About 4-5 times)
Cleaned battery terminals and battery off
Shut on and off Gas Line Cutoff Valve
My next thoughts are that maybe the TPS is fucked up or maybe the Spark Arrestor is plugged with mud. I was thinking tomorrow to purge the exhaust and also check the ohms output on the TPS.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE BEEN BATTLING THIS FOR WEEK AND REALLY WANT TO GO RIDING. THANK YOU!
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