Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

jtmm1960

1998 bigbear 4x4 rear brake help

Recommended Posts

I cant find help anywhere so Hope this is the place, I traded for a 98 350 bigbear 4x4, has no brakes at all, so I have back brake assembly apart and I think it just needed cleaning and adjustment, theres a thing I guess its called the camshaft that lifts shoes up against drum. it needs adjusting, in back it has this arrow, should the can lay horizontial front to rear or is there a certain position, any help would be great::confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


it will be flat between the brake shoes when they're installed. The minute it begins twisting that's when you're forcing the brake shoes out and applying stopping force- if it won't hit the drum or provide enough friction - might be time for a new drum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Arizona
      Went shopping on Saturday, picked up another Kawasaki Bayou 220 and a Yamaha Timber Wolf 250
      I really should sell some of these but they are a lot of fun to find, fix and ride
      Of course neither of them run but that's part of the fun!  Az



    • By MarkinAR
      On a 93 Kodiak, and I am sure BigBear behind and below the clutch pack sits a claw of a piece. It has a stack of washer bearing washer, claw, 3 bearing plate, then stabilizer fork that sits on a shaft. What does that bad boy do?
    • By JCH
      Hi there
      I am in need of a manual for my KLF 300 Bayou 4x2 . I've found others on here for the 4x4 model, but was wondering if I need a separate 4x2 manual. Does anyone know?
    • By PolarisRich
      I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
      My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
      I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
      Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
      [ATTACH]1021[/ATTACH]
      then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
      [ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
      Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
      [ATTACH]1022[/ATTACH]
      Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
      The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
      timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
      The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
      Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
      the flywheel into the center of the hole.
      [ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
      Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
      [ATTACH]1024[/ATTACH]
      [ATTACH]1025[/ATTACH]
      To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
      The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
      I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
      I hope this helps!
      Thanks Rich





    • By Frank Angerano
      I’ve decided to post  a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly.    There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along.     We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic.     List of things I use:   Safety glasses !!!   Rags.   I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones.     I like to use a frisbee turned      upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench.    A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached)     A can of gum out  carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip.  (Pic attached)   A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip.  Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip.  (Pic attached)   A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long.    A few Q tips.   The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat.   This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white.     I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up.     It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back.     I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside.   Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside.  If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing !    When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak.    Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well.  Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring.    After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray.   I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port.   Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner.  After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor.   Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube.   There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated.    Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside.     I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area.  Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw.    Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface.   I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle.     Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets.    Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike.    Install the float and fill needle assembly.    Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop.  Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again.  The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it.   If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment    Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it.   Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good.   There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall.     Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly.     I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor  upside down to see if the air stops.     Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go!    All pics of the items I use are attached below.   If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners.   You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right.    The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running.  This is a relatively easy task.   Again I hope this helps!    Frank.     


  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By weblex
      Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
      Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.

      What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.

      Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
      Thanks in advance.
       
       
    • By arvellaspoon
      When I push down on the rear brake pedal, it makes the left hand brake very sloppy. Is there a way to adjust that? I have a 2007 Suzuki Vinson
    • By chuckcnm
      Hi, just picked up a MOTO 4 YFM255 and want to replace the rear brake pads. How do I get to the back. Guessing I need to remove the brake disk, question any easy way to do this?
      Thanks
    • By Kyboy
      Iam looking for help seperating the rear brake drum and the cover. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...