Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

SSreda4

Foreman 500 Output Shaft Replacement

Recommended Posts

I'm gonna tag this thread with Foreman 500 secondary gear reduction. Im doing that because on the 500s the secondary gear reduction is accomplished by changing the gear on the output shaft and the smaller gear directly above it. So this could be very useful for someone doing that procedure as well.

So let's start from the beginning. It was a great day to ride at Highlifter, and we set out into the woods. Not long after a heard a huge clunk and the bike lurched forward when giving it gas. I was able to engage 4wd and the front tires pulled me back to the trailer. There was some awful noises along the way however so I knew something was torn up pretty good. I cut the driveshaft boot off and found this:

10269474_845704458775029_172788601482578205_n_zps1decfca0.jpg

So I went ahead and took the swingarm off and this curious little guy fell out:

10569083_845704338775041_3163635076879977527_n_zps2b01ff4b.jpg

When I dumped the swingarm out, this was in the driveshaft tunnel:

10389710_847197501959058_7136050389555970876_n_zps70038e6a.jpg

I also noticed the output shaft was bugared up, and the rear case was cracked a little, so I ordered up some parts.

Output shaft 23611-HP0-A00 $43

Rear crankcase cover 11340-HP0-A10 $136 (comes with 91201-965-000 o'ring pre-installed)

Kickstart cover gasket 11396-HP0-A00 $11

Rear cover gasket 11395-HP0-A00 $13

Output shaft seal 91205-HM7-003 $10

Optional but I did not order:

Kickstart oil seal 91202-HP0-A01 $8

--------------------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Ok so I propped it up, swingarm already removed, to get ready for teardown: Note its no longer sitting

on the rear jackstands because I hooked a chain hoist to the rear and lifted it by the rafters.

Made it much easier to roll under with my stool.

Output2_zps9bcc9e4f.jpg

This is pretty basic. Pull the driver's side tank plastic off, oil fill cover, and complete airbox

assembly. That's basically it, you can see the entire rear of the engine once that is removed.

Output1_zps059d4526.jpg

Make sure you have all the right parts:

Output3_zpsdeef84e6.jpg

Before we turn any more wrenches, you'll notice your two gaskets have nice pieces of cardboard protecting

them. Lets use those as drawing boards and trace them. Then punch the bolt holes with a screwdriver and

you have a handy place to store your bolts since there are several different sizes that will come out of this cover.

Output4_zps2b966ac5.jpg

Now we are at the business end....let's start by pulling the 4 bolts that hold the kickstart cover on.

This cover has no gasket and no sealer. I recommend you use some rtv when it goes back together. You can

never be too careful.

Output6_zps37889d22.jpg

---------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's what you'll find under that black cover. I believe this is a 17mm. An impact gun zipped it out.

Output7_zpsced62c5d.jpg

Notice the long bolt has an O'ring seal on it. Inspect it and replace it if necessary. Mine looked fine.

Output8_zps85f5fe2c.jpg

Next is the crap on the bottom of the cover. The two electrical connectors simply pull straight off, and the cable and brackets will need to be unbolted. The bolt holding the black bracket is a dual use bolt, meaning it holds the bracket but is a critical fastener for the cover as well. The one holding the silver cable bracket is not.

Output9_zpsa0590c7d.jpg

Here's what's under the kickstart cover. This is how your ATV makes its own electricity. Basically, an alternator.

Output10_zpsd87380b6.jpg

The backside of the cover itself:

Output11_zps865c1f27.jpg

--------------------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Undo the rest of the perimeter bolts and this is what she looks like opened up: Note, I've already pulled the

output shaft in this picture. I was inserted into the hole in the bottom left of the engine.

Output12_zps9db4b6f0.jpg

And here it is all bugared up:

Output13_zps31c3b1af.jpg

New next to old, the gear just slides off and transfers over.

Output14_zps046a61c2.jpg

Here's our old cover, we need to move the electrical switch and wiring over to the new cover, as well as

the output shaft bearing. Mine just fell out for some reason, but required some hammer tapping to insert

it into the new cover which was odd.

Output15_zps9a8aa473.jpg

This sensor located bottom center must be transfered:

Output17_zpsf56e2dfa.jpg

-------------------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As well as this plug on the top corner (note the o'ring seal on this one too): Doesnt that say t-40?

Output16_zps79833fe4.jpg

New cover prepped and ready to go back on:

Output18_zps5a9f1b5a.jpg

You'll note that on your cardboard some bolt holes are missing...that because some hold both covers and go through

both gaskets. I have lined the gaskets up in this picture so you can see where they overlap:

Output5_zps843d7080.jpg

Here's my artwork:

Output19_zps7309273e.jpg

So for the two main gaskets, i do a prep with a gasket prep disc on a pnuematic grinder, then a super

thin layer of Ultra Black RTV, then the gasket, then another layer of RTV. Works everytime. Ready for assembly.

Output20_zps04c81a0c.jpg

Reinstall everything and this is how she should look: Dont forget to seal your kickstart cover.

Output21_zps7dd3557d.jpg

Thoughts, comments, suggestions? As an FYI, that was a Moose Racing U joint that broke (part# 1205-0201). Pure junk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Ajmboy
      Tonight is the first presidential debate and it should be a record breaker for viewing. Might as well have a mini poll here on QUADCRAZY to see how they stack up. Make your choice in the poll and feel free to comment in this topic. I'm going to pin this topic and keep it going through the elections in November. 
    • By BuckBilly
      Good morning to all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      Let's see if we can make this a daily event.
    • By StolenATV
      My daughter 4wheeler was stolen on 8/26-8/27. I’m offering a reward for the return and capture of the person or persons involved.
      The post STOLEN 2008 Honda Foreman 500 4×4 appeared first on Stolen 911.
      View the full article
    • By Tahj
      I am looking to see why my 2005 Grizzly  660 won't crank. I have set the valves but suspect a loose timing chain.
      When working to remove the valve cover I found a "cap tensioner case" - parts #25  - #299 on Babbitts site.
      The  cover seems to bridge the valve cover and the cylinder head. What the hell is it and what surprises will I  find if I remove it?
      Uncharted territory for me.
    • By mywifeknowseverythin
      I keep some people's phone numbers in my phone just so I know not to answer when they call.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Alois Specht
      Hi there , have a KAZUMA 500 JAGUAR the rear diff is permanently locked , how can I get it out of lock just about tried everything I think, ?? .  Thank you your help is appreciated.
       
    • By mrfartsalot
      i have a 2001 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 that the primary cvt clutch is rusted on any ideas on how to get it off i want to try to reuse it if possible.
    • By Paul Maple
      I have a 1999 Sportsman  500, it was running fine, than started to lose power in the winter, I adjusted the idle screw and away I went, than a few weeks ago it died, I have found that i am flooding the engine, compression was at 70PSI and due to the compression release mech. i assume i am good as it compared to the same PSI on a 2000 sportsman 500 i have. i cannot start the atv unless i go full throttle and it starts an runs for about 30 sec than dies, again it is flooded. i ordered a new carb off ebay as i could get one for around $40. put that in same issue, i have checked the timing, (good), valves out of adjustment i adjusted to .006 still same issue, i have found the exhaust lobe and rocker arm to have some wear, i have ordered new ones, but am looking for any other input in this area as well. would the exhaust cam and rocker arm cause the engine to flood? i have used a bore scope and the piston liner has good cross hatching still? any input would be great.
    • By colin james
      View File 1996-2000 Polaris Sportsman 335/500 Service Manual
      This is the factory service manual for the polaris sportsman 335 & 500.
      You can download the section you need  or download all of the chapters for the complete manual 
      Submitter colin james Submitted 10/19/2018 Category Polaris ATV  
    • By colin james
      This is the factory service manual for the polaris sportsman 335 & 500.
      You can download the section you need  or download all of the chapters for the complete manual 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...