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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
By Stacy Hanks
I have 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
I have an Outlaw 110 that will struggle to turn the engine over. Jump starting doesn't help other than the battery will drain LONG before the bike eventually starts, so is required. If you keep messing with it long enough it will eventually magically begin to crank fine and sometimes finally start. Once we finally get the bike to start and warm it up thoroughly, it will turn over and start just fine the rest of the day like nothing ever happened... next day it won't turn over again. Internet research has found lots of people saying they replaced starters, starter clutch, wiring, etc. but with only about 50/50 success rate for their particular problems... and I never found anybody describing a problem like mine, so I'm looking for advice/experience. Would rather not just start blindly throwing parts at it. Does anybody have any thoughts/ideas?
Thought i would share a fix that I came across. I was working on a 99 scambler 500, The customer complaint was that even with the fuel shut off the tank would slowly drain out onto the ground. First I found the fuel shut off was bad/ leaking/ dripping so I installed a new one thinking that would fix it. Then I ran it and and seen that the overflow was flowing fuel out from the bowl. So I cleaned the needle and seat and changed the float height to lower the fuel level in the bowl. Well... It still overflowed and flooded. So I bench tested the needle and seat with a pop off tester. I found that these newer style needle and seats just utilize an o-ring to install the brass seat into the carb.
The o-ring for the seat had hardened up allowing fuel into the float bowl from under the seat. New o-ring and problems solved.
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I have an 04 ltz and it started sputtering a little bit while going down the road and I was low on gas so I just figured that's what it was. But now I can't get it to start I completely cleaned the carberator put a new spark plug and coil pack in it and all it does is turn over. It has compression it's getting fuel and it is sparking but all it does is turn over any idea what it is??
Just signed up, as I've had a recurring problem, and need some help.
To start the bike I have to put the choke on all the way and 4 squeezes on the gas, Then as I push the start, I slow squeeze the throttle about half way for it to catch....If I miss it, then it will take 5 mins of slowly finding the sweetspot on the choke in unison with some throttle squeezes.
Then I have to to hold the throttle to keep the bike going, using the choke will stall it out. after about 3 mins of holding the throttle, I then can let it go, and it idles fine, and runs fine. If it sits for a few hours it's only slightly hard to start, but a few days of sitting, and it's a lot more work.
Had the bike serviced they couldn't figure it out. They swapped peticock, plug, new gas, all new lines, new throttle, and cable. Said the carb was fine, and clean. New air filter, said fuel pump was fine, no leaks around carb boots, new battery, new rectifier.
Ran some sea foam through it....Runs Great.....Just such a pain to start...
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