Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
Hi guys I have a 2003 Arctic 250 4X4 it starts idles and runs great for about 10 min. then it spits and sputters and dies but it starts right up like nothing happened idles good till you give gas and it does it again let off the gas and it's idling great again this goes on for about 15 to 20 min. and then it takes off runs good all day like nothing was wrong.
I cleaned the carburetor it looked like a new one inside found a little gunk in one orifice, new air filter no crimped lines air line to tank good I did put a meter on the battery idling it said 16.5 V that's high I think would a voltage regulator cause this?
Suzuki shop wanted to sale me a stator for $556.00 but said it could be something else also thought I'd see what you guys say about it
I bought a 2003 Recon from a kid that beat it – all plastics cracked etc, When I replaced the rear brake the inside – axle, rear oil - were clean and in good shape, so I think Honda won the kid vs quad battle.
It shifts a little clunky (I made the adjustment) and after riding for a while I get a hot friction material smell I wonder if he used the wrong oil and if any damage was done.
Couple of quick points:
1. the Odyssey, or FL350R. This was 30 years ahead of it's time. Fast as greased owl crap, reliable, stupid fun. Never took off. Fast forward to the RAZR which was just replicating the FL350R. What would Honda have done with it if it took off in '85?
2. Everything about the ATC. Reliable, good power for small displacement, easy to work on, simple front to back, still running 30 years later. My son's 185s is 36 years old and outran a 400 Big Bear the other day until it ran out of gearing and the Big Bear caught it around 50 mph. I can dig a 110 out of the weeds and as long as it has a little compression, I'll make it run in 2 days for about $20. Can't do that with a Yamaha 225.
3, 1981 250R. What happens if you stick a CR250 2 stroke in a trike? Yeah, a death machine. Then by '85 the 250R had a 6 speed and would do 70 from the factory. Death Machine +2. The 250R gave birth to the trike racing circuit.
4. The ATC 70. Small, quiet and reliable. Just never took off. Gave birth to the entire small displacement chinese quad market.
5. 82 200ES - first Big Red. The BR single handedly created the UTV market as we see it today in the Ranger, Mule, etc.
6. The ENTIRE chinese quad market in front of us today came from expired Honda patents from the 80's.
7. 300 fourtrax. By far the most coveted 4x4 in the market right now, absolutely indestructible. Pick one up a couple of years old, stick massive wheels and tires on it, and you have a mud machine. Kinda like the Polaris or Can Am...but reliable. And cheap.
To be fair, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawa, all picked their game up along the way and make good ATV's. I'll leave the Polaris/CanAm discussion for another day. While Polaris gave birth to the automatic, the reliability issues of both still exist today. While great ATV's, I don't consider them any more than specialty machines.
or debate...whichever is easier.
Similar Tagged Content
Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.
What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.
Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
Thanks in advance.
in this thread, I want to discuss how 4-cycle atv engines work- what the different types are... how they are set up and which you prefer. To start off, are the cams on ALL atv 4-strokes powered by a cam chain? I know that on say a lawn mower or logsplitter engine, the cam is turned by the tappet, pushrods, and valve rockers. Which is better and why? Chain-driven cams or pushrod-driven cams? Are the pushrods just an old version and everything is transforming to chains or the other way around...or not at all? Just looking for some explanation, history, and downsides/upsides...
By Arctic Snowdog
I have a small Sled Dog business and I train up to 14 Huskies pulling a Yamaha Grizzly 550, that is quite a lot of Horse (Dog) power. Sometimes in order to make the ride smoother for Dogs and us we ride in Neutral but on a few occasions I have noticed that the right hand (front) brake seems to loose pressure and does not brake at all. Is there a particular reason for this ? Is it a fault or is it something to do with us riding in neutral, I only use the ATV in this way a few months a year before the snow comes but I am sure I recall the same thing happening last season.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because I am a far way from being a mechanic.....
Have a super day and thank you all.
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.