Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Ryan Geiler
New to the ATV world, picked up a solid used Kodiak 400. It appears the former owner did some sort of modification for a saddle bag or something along those lines--and I'd like to match it up and replace it. Not a big deal by any means but something I thought I would give a shot at finding.
does anyone recognize what kind of luggage/bag/cargo would go where those white tabs are he drilled through that fuel fender?
By Ed Zeppeli
So I fired up the quad the other day and let it idle for about 5-10 minutes and it ran great then died.
I go to check it. No lights on dash, nothing.
Check the main fuse and it's blown. Key's off/out. Put in another and it blows immediately.
Pull out the meter and see that on the non-load side of the fuse holder there's continuity to ground.
Check all obvious things. Wiring diagram. Connectors. Frayed wires. Bad grounds.
Battery measures ok at 12.8v.
I'm dreading taking off the front plastics but I suspect the regulator/rectifier. The wiring diagram shows the red wire (the suspect wire) goes to the ignition switch and the regulator/rectifier.
Anyone else experience something similar and/or have any troubleshooting tips that may save me the grief of removing the plastics?
Let me start with I have about 30 years of ATC experience, but not much with stuff made after 1988. Some, but I'm mechanically inclined so it's all good. I"m rehabbing a 1997 Bayou 220 to send back into the wild and the mechanicals are now all good, just working on making the electrical system...electric. Right now, I have no power on the white wire as tested directly on the plug at the starter solenoid. I'm assuming that wire is supposed to be hot any time it's attached to a battery? The genius that had it before snipped a couple wires and inserted a fairly heavy push button for electric start bypassing the electrical system. I think i've corrected everything north of the solenoid but the white wire has me stumped. Is my assumption that this should always be hot with a hot battery correct? Does this indicate a broken circuit in the starter solenoid? Relay was also bad and wired incorrectly, but that's resolved and I can make the relay click bypassing the solenoid and connector, directly giving the white wire 12V. Thoughts?
Similar Tagged Content
I have a 1998 Yamaha big bear 350, new to this. When its cold it is very difficult to shift. Once its warm its ok, however, my old feet don't like the shifting. I saw on ebay a hand shifter conversion kit. Any advice, I live in the Low Country of SC no hills, I use the machine around the farm for corning and scouting.
I never intended on doing a swingarm swap on a bike who only had 500 miles on it. But, plans change. Here's the bike the day I brought it home:
I took it to a nasty ditch around the corner from the house. It let me down miserably.
I then added a Highlifter Signature Series 2 inch bracket lift.
And EPI clutch kit:
Then, I added 28 inch tires.
Then went and played:
Found and 1986 lt160f that has had the head removed. Firstly, the engine has sat outside in the elements for a long period of time. The timing chain is rusty but their appears to little or water in the oil. Do you think that it is worth salvaging and if so, what would you do to motor to remove the rust. Thanks
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.