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  1. Today
  2. Very good! That air fuel screw is tapered and fits into an air passage in the carb, so turning the screw out increases the airflow. Some carburetors are different but most work this way. Over time the screws tapered edge wears away and the adjustment gets less sensitive. The optimal position where the engine is at max performance is usually done with the engine running. As you turn the screw in one direction or the other the engine revs higher or lower. Higher is what your looking for the higher it revs the better the air fuel ratio is getting and you keep going in that direction until the engine starts to rev lower. Thats the spot where you stop and come back a hair.
  3. hilarious - i may take a pic of the pieces this time - it's not bogging as bad w/ air fuel screw not out as far. so let me make sense of this... they WHY behind it - and i likely will be thinking of this backward, but here it goes: -the air fuel screw mixes air and gas --- if it's too far in (3 turns), meaning that i can see or almost see the tip of it in the cylinder wall, not enough AIR? is able to mix with the gas and create the explosion? thus, backing it out to 2 turns, i cannot see the tip, this opens up the hole for more air to mix with the gas at a better ratio conducive to creating an explosion - this process is fine-tuned until there's not any bogging down (ie the best ratio has been reached for max performance). ??
  4. i only read the top part of your post on my phone - laptop showed me the rest - i'll tackle those steps next. i didn't have to loosen the throttle cable and other piece this time - was able to turn carb on its side to reset the air fuel screw - i backed it out from snug to 2 1/4 turns and the throttle went in almost half way - this is progress. i may back it to 2 and see what it does just for kicks. getting excited about this - will keep you posted
  5. Bogging is more often a lean problem than rich.. As Frank said , I'd pull the carb once more and look for any tiny, and I mean tiny holes in the tubes to the jets . They can be missed very easily because they're so small and not a brass jet as the bigger ones are . I don't know if your carb has the holes I'm talking about but many do.. Carbs and fuel mixture settings are often accompanied by a lot of my verbal lubrication here. Sometimes I wish I was multi-lingual so I'd have access to a broader range of "lubricant " phrases. They're so handy when fiddling with the small stuff and much better to use them than start tossing tools LOL
  6. No worries on the time spent helping out. Thats what Quadcrazy is here for. I honestly feel like the air fuel screw is to far out. I would set it at 2-1/4 out from a snug position. NOW i know you cleaned the carburetor and reassembled it and probably did and amazing job. Problem is sometimes we miss things or something has gotten back inside the carburetor. Are you 100% sure the gas tank is clean and not full of dirt ? If so add a fuel filter. So I would pull the carburetor one more time and open it up to inspect the ports, orafaces and jets. Make sure its clean and blow out all the holes and Jets etc with compressed air. Reset the clip on the main jet needle as per the manual and adjust the float so that the fuel stops flowing at about 3/4 way up. You can verify this by leaving the bowl off of the carburetor and putting a clean hose on the fuel line inlet on the carb. Hold the carb so its in the proper right side up position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming from the fill needle. Slowly raise the float up with your hand while blowing and it should stop at around 3/4 way up. If so your good to go on that, if not make the adjustment. Set the air fuel screw as i mentioned and put it all together. Remember what we discussed, the air fuel screw is the small screw that's underneath the carb and goes into the carburetor the one I circled in the pic a few posts back. Its a pain in the ass to adjust when its back on the atv especially while its running so you have to take a small flat head screwdriver and cut it to about 3 inches or so long and then add a little tape to the end so you can turn it with your hand. Before you make any adjustments when you get the carburetor back on try running the atv at 2-1/4 out and see how it goes. If not make the adjustment while the engine is running. Come out a quarter turn at a time. I'm sure this sounds like a lot but its all doable and takes time but it pays off. I cant tell you how many times I've had to pull a carburetor again. Just keep your patients.
  7. took it to back yard and everything went blank. battery is new - it was a 15 amp fuse in front. thank goodness - was ready to throw in the towel. I ran it around my yard and, after it got warmed up, it bogged down BADLY while pressing the throttle - sounds flooded - had to inch back to workshop... uphill, of course played with the "governor" thing that taps in to carb to rev up/slow down the idle but this didn't help matters. I put the clip at 3 spaces versus 4 and this didn't help. I ran it without the air filter and this didn't help. you think it's still the idle screw on bottom of carb? I did loosen it up a bit like you mentioned - I think I can get a tiny screw driver up under it to adjust needle. ** if I do take the carb off again - not an issue - remember I came out 2 5/8 turns on the screw - do I need to go out to 3 1/2 turns or will this be letting MORE gas in and flood it even more? you're taking a LOT of time with me and I appreciate it, frank - I remain keenly aware that it gets old - but I appreciate your continued assistance. some good news: I may can get the bearings on all tires changed for under $300 at a local Polaris dealer - other mom/pop shops wanted $500
  8. Yesterday
  9. Hahaha verbal lubrication lmao. @davefrombc that was great stuff right there! A carburetor is a carburetor is a carburetor! One thing I'm going to add to this topic is, I've loosened the carburetor clamps up and rotated it to remove the bowl and float while the carburetor was still on the machine. I have also dropped the pin that holds the float and the fill valve needle which took me forever to locate! So if your going down that road then be sure to add a rag or something bright and that if something should fall its got a bright and contained landing area. My personal opinion is to remove the carb since its not to difficult to do after you get the hang of it and getting that needle back up in there is not so easy to do while its on the engine.
  10. I have done next to zero work on ATVs myself other than maintaining my own and helping friends with minor repairs and welding. I have messed with old school cars which are very comparable to non-electronic controlled ATVs. A carb is a carb whether it is on as car , ATV or any other machine .. They may be built and look different but they all mix fuel and air to run. The trick is finding all the quirks in how each is jetted and adjusted .. That's where manuals and advice from owners of similar machines come in. As far as the electrical end of it comes , I'm comfortable with points and coils, but have to rely on advice from others and, again, manuals when dealing with CDI boxes and electronics on newer ATVs. I know my way around multimeters and basic electricity. Got my HAM ticket back in the '70s so learned a lot of electrical theory to do that . I'm a retired Millwright and have tinkered with cars since my first one over 60 years ago, so I do know the frustration of working in tight spaces at times fixing things that engineers designed to be easy to build but hell to maintain. Most of the time when someone has a problem I might be able to help with, Frank beats me to it and gives very good advice . I can only add a little to some of it some of the time . I spend entirely too much time on my computer so I do know my way around searching for answers to all sorts of things. The flexible screwdrivers offered today are a lot more refined than back in the day I bought one.. Old ones were simply a flat head with a cable like shaft and handle. I never saw any with a Philips or any Robertson head. Now they generally all have heads where you can use any of the various inserts. Good luck on getting that carb tuned .. Takes a bit of time and patience ..... and far too often a lot of ummmmm " Verbal lubrication" to get the job done.
  11. I would check used parts at http://car-part.com/ it will show you some compatibility and local junk yards.
  12. Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now. When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
  13. dig it - thanks dave. feel free to add any advice on the topic at hand! i'm a newbie with zero ATV experience
  14. You can get flexible screwdrivers . Walmart carries several different takes on them according to the hit on this search. https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/flexible-screwdrivers
  15. the smoke has calmed down - it's idling pretty good but still rough - no leaking under the machine - engine not overtly-hot after about 10 minutes of running - the whining noise has abated when I press throttle it bogs down a good bit - I even advanced it slowly but it bogged down about 1/4 of the way in -- when I stopped the engine and let it set for 2-3 minutes, it would start w/ no issues, I could open the throttle all the way and it would howl... but then I'd let it idle, try to push the throttle and it would bog down again I let it set for 10 minutes, had to press throttle to get it to run, it idled for about a minute before cutting off to adjust the needle valve, I've either got to remove the carb every time or bend the end of an old slot head screwdriver 90 degrees and hope this works - that's gonna be challenging I was able to open the movie attachment above w/ windows media player - unsure if you'll be able to
  16. Last week
  17. Your doing great brother. Its not rocket science just old rusted stuff that needs to be freed up again. Keep up the good work
  18. Ok, kind of what I thought but can honestly say I’ve never really messed with drum brakes before so wasn’t 100% sure. Will lube it all up this weekend and hopefully get it put back together.
  19. Nice work brother. So spray the cam lobe with penetration oil as well and let them sit. The cam should rotate with the brake lever and expand the cam in between the brake shoes thus expanding them. There is a brake grease you can and should put on the lobe when your all free and moving and ready to close it all up. The area I circled should move. Spray the shit out of everything except the surface of the brake pads and hit everything with a wire brush. You can out blue painters tape on the brake pad surface before spraying it all down.
  20. drum just needed to soak I guess. I sprayed it down real well lastnight with lube and tonight it slid right off. The pads look like they have plenty of pad left. Now I don’t know what needs to be done to free the brake up. Does the cam turn pushing the pads out against the drum? Do I just need to lube up the cam and try to work it back and forth? I don’t really see anything else that would move. As you can see from the pics, I messed up a few places of the backing plate. I’m wondering if that matters?
  21. Look in the forum downloads section. There is the service manual for the '88 - '94 Honda 300's there
  22. Does anyone own a 2018 Argo 500 le and is it comparable to a Polaris 570
  23. Yep just as i figured lol. Oh well, its got a Suzuki engine and ton of decent parts. Maybe get it running and sell it cheap.
  24. I read somewhere it can have a suzuki engine. There are a few quads out there that have internal suzuki engines from what I remember. That's good in my opinion. Here's an old topic that might be of interest: There's also a few other topics https://www.quadcrazy.com/search/?q=baja
  25. Baja and Suzuki I'm assuming did a joint venture ??
  26. Im not sure sure this was a deal lol. Its in rough shape.
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