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What Ajmboy was referring to was the post. This website has a lot of technical resources available for the users of the site. Its a website and unlike social media, you don't get an instant response. Those who have the resources to share are only here on their spare time so a reply may be a day or two. Plus the way it was posted "I am just here to get a manual" is outright saying "once I get this manual, im gone" I wouldn't be too inclined to help that person either. Then on top of that to post 10 replies with only a number is childish, another reason to not help them either. A forum board is a community. There is already a lot of people who do come here to ask a question about a problem, then someone provides some suggestions to help solve it, and they never post back that it fixed the problem, so we never know if our suggestions worked. We assume it did, because otherwise they would post back that it didn't work. Mike

That’s because people like you come to get something free and offer nothing in return to the community that gave them something. Next time pay for a manual.

Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:

thanks i will try that the thing is it never did that before since i bought it i rebuilt the carb at least 5 or 6 times finally bought a different new carb from a place that could get a aftermarket one it ran great for a year and a half then it would start this i would work the throttle it would straghten out but now it wont . the one thing i noticed was that neddle with the groves is a 1[8 in longer then in a kit ive even tried different kits all have the shorter needle iam 79 was a heavy equipment mechanic many years figured i could fix about anything but not this ILL TRY WHAT YOU SAID AND THANKS

Some do, depends on brand and model. Also could slack out the throttle cable so there is less travel?

The smaller Arctic Cats have clutch spacers that can be removed if you want more speed. Mike

Heres what I did- Don’t forget to hone the cylinder. Use lots of assembly lube. Before first start take out spark plug and turn engine over a few seconds to get oil flowing around a bit. Start it and let it idle for 30ish seconds, then rev it keep the rmps varying but not too high. This is so that the rings seat properly. And you need the variations to mimic the kind of conditions it will be facing while you ride- constantly changing rpms. Once it seems to be pretty well warmed up to regular operating temperature or you feel it has run long enough, let it cool down completely. Repeat the rev/cooling process 2 more times. Once you are ready to ride take it easy for the first 10 miles or so. Check all nuts/bolts periodically through this process. Hope this helps. The kit may come with recommended instructions also.

I too joined this forum looking for a manual. I joined to be a contributing member and not just "pad" my posting numbers to get a manual. I poked around & found I like it here. I made some posts and even started a club (Ride Red). I also contributed photos & a service manual. I am not here to be a lazy sponge. Some people just don't get it!

the older yamaha kodiak,big bears have a centrifugal clutch,manual transmission,and have low range,which is very handy for towing stuff around,and for really rough country.A 400 would probably do you nicely.

Heres my findings during the valve adjusting process. The two exhaust valves were just less than .004" and the intake valves were tight with no gap causing pressure on the valve it's self. Everything is now adjusted to .006". So I took the bike out for a little run today and I noticed a few things. First the "Pros" The first thing was how easy the bike started, next was how the idle had smoothed out. The idle dosn't fluxuate as much anymore. Throttle responce is a tad better too. Now the only "Con" if you can call it a "Con". There is now a valve train noise that was not there before I did the adjustment. I guess the slight ticking sound is normal, also good for the Cam and the general performance of the engine. Only a "Con" because of the noise.

Partsland.com is a good one also.. and me PolarisATVrepair.com