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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Lots of OHV areas here in California, most forget California is still mostly Forest, or farm land. I found a great place to find new areas to ride is the forest service website. Theyseem to have made a real effort in opening up new areas. The Forrest service also provides some good maps you can use with a Phone or GPS enabled tablet. The Application for the maps is called Avenza.. I save all my rides and export to google earth. and no I don't work for Avenza or the forest service. I did spend years calling the forest service before heading to a new area only to get a un-clear answers.
  2. 1 point
    Thanks for the tip... will grease it up good.
  3. 1 point
    I would double check that the choke is adjusted correctly and the plunger isn't stuck. Check the pilot screw adjustment, should be 2 turns out from lightly seated. Test the needle and seat, should be able to hold 5 psi.
  4. 1 point
    I have an ultrasonic cleaner, they work really well. However, Frank is correct, you must do the heavy cleaning first before using the ultrasonic. I would say they are mostly not necessary for a 1 off carb cleaning.
  5. 1 point
    I've just recently switched to the Erikson ATV e-strap kit: http://www.ericksonmfg.com/product/atv-wheel-chock-and-tie-down-strap-kit/ I like it... no need to compress your suspension but holds the atv very securely and doesn't bounce slack into it.
  6. 1 point
    Thanks John, no continuity on the yellow/red wire coming from the CDI box to ground when off....... yes when switched on so it's working ok. Found a service manual online with the correct wiring diagram from the early magneto type ignition (Bay-E download). Gonna separate the ignition from the rest of the wire harness to hopefully narrow down the players in this problem, by giving the cdi and ignition coil their own stand alone ground and eliminating the yellow red kill switch wire I can then see if the CDI, source, pick up and the ignition coils are working...... IF I STILL have no spark then it's only a matter of a couple of obvious parts, IF my spark returns then it's an easy job to one by one plug things back in until the culprit is found. We'll see
  7. 1 point
    The intermittent spark thing really sounds like a bad connection. I would open the stator cover and check that there is no rust or corrosion on or around the stator/magneto. Check all plugs and before you plug them back in add dielectric grease to the plugs. If the bike is cranking when you hit the starter then the starter safety relay circuit is working. Easy way to test it to put the bike in gear and try to crank it. It should not crank. The stator coil should should read from wire to wire about the same ohms. And should NOT read anything from each wire to ground. I have to go back and look at the pick up coil and stator coil numbers to see where your at as far as readings. This should be your working diagram. Let me know if you need any clarification on the map.
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