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I agree, it could be risky or an easy fix. I agree with @Frank Angerano if the price is right, get it. Offer a price thinking worse case scenario for replacement parts. Topic moved to suzuki atv forum and added more info to topic title.

Great research and work! But I have to disagree on the stator. If the bike is running and has good spark I don’t think its breaking down. In my experience the stator is either good or bad. There should definitely be a reading on the ohms setting giving you exact numbers from phase to phase. Why your not getting that is a little baffling. You should buy an in line spark tester and plug it in and watch your spark as you rev the bike to see if there is a loss or brake down in the spark. It’s about a $15 dollar tool that’s a big help. Back to the carburetor: I would definitely drill out that plug covering the fuel air screw and pull it out. Check it out and clean the port well with cleaner and air. Before you remove the screw tighten it to a snug position and count the turns so you know where to set it when you put it back. My guess is it’s around 1-3/4 turns out from a snug spot. The fact that the bike sat, the carburetor was gummed up and that air/fuel screw was never taken out and cleaned leaves a question mark on the carburetor. I would start with the less invasive stuff right now and do some testing first so your not dumping money into it. Narrow down the problem so you don’t question weather it’s a fuel or electrical problem. Fuel tank and valve (petcock) clean and delivering enough fuel, carburetor rebuilt and good to go! No cracks or problems on the boot connecting the carburetor to the engine etc. if all that’s done then I rule out fuel or carburetor problems and move on to possibly an ignition issue. Oem/aftermarket: Carburetors: Chinese carburetors look great but don’t perform well at all. If you have the oem carburetor and it’s not cracked or damaged then it’s a good cleaning and rebuild. But it has to be properly done. One missed port or blockage will cause a lot of throttle issues. Floats set wrong, fuel air screw not right etc. Cdi: oem always. Used from eBay at the very least. Same with regulators Stators: I’ve used aftermarket RM and Caltric. No issues to date.

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! I moved your topic to the Suzuki forum. I used to own a 700 King Quad myself. The OE filter number should be 16510-03G00-X07 and that crosses to aftermarket part numbers: If you have a Napa, you'll need a 1359 Gold I'll look around for a manual.