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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/18/2019 in all areas

  1. Went shopping on Saturday, picked up another Kawasaki Bayou 220 and a Yamaha Timber Wolf 250 I really should sell some of these but they are a lot of fun to find, fix and ride Of course neither of them run but that's part of the fun! Az
    1 point
  2. Sounds like a great project. Immediate downloads access is available with a premium membership: https://www.quadcrazy.com/subscriptions/ Guidelines: https://www.quadcrazy.com/announcement/16-requirements-to-access-downloads-read-here/
    1 point
  3. That was my thought too frank. You can tell what happened by pulling the jug off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  4. In would start by pulling the cylinder off of the engine and then the piston out. Take a good look and see if you can find where the failure happened. Maybe the wrist pin clip came out, the rings maybe went etc. As @06kfx440 stated check the main crank shaft for any play. If all else checks out on then your good to go. If it’s just the cylinder head and piston then try to locate a new or used on on eBay. If you find a good used cylinder head then spend the money and put a new piston in as well. Makes sense to do this since your going through the effort. Make sure your oil pump is working properly and that the oil is getting to the head and lube all areas up good prior to start up. My guess is it was prob a failure of some sort with regard to the piston and the wrist pin clips or rings.
    1 point
  5. little on the high side, 650 for both. But ill probably get it back out of them later. Looking at the Bayou see anything wrong lol, has the pos grounded! Pos wire is broken in half. .
    1 point
  6. looks like I'm going to hit the trail tomorrow Wifes quad not out of the shop yet,just went in to do a tune up and check it over. so I'll be going with some friends up to leota for some trail riding in the morning. have not been out on the trails since 1995!! http://www.upnorthtrails.org/trails/leota-trail.html not sure which trail we are taking. Excited....you bet!!
    1 point
  7. Can you try to free up the piston from the jug? Because we need to figure out what happened and go from there. Try spraying pb blaster in the spark plug hole and let it soak for a bit. Then just a little turn to free it from the cylinder wall. Then check your timing. It could be binding up in the valves and not letting it turn. Or just take the jug off and let’s start inspecting parts to again, see what happened Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I’ve blown pistons and luckily was able to figure out what happened. Could be simple, could be time for more. But we will figure it all out together. We are all quadcrazy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. Like I stated before. Do a google search with “02 Yamaha kodiac 400 front shocks” or whatever your looking for. It will pull up several shocks from different sites with new and used pictures. Select what you want to look at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. Very nice. I love that last pic of that wide trail or maybe a sand dune? but that’s great stuff. That fourtrax is in great condition, and looks like a good mix of bikes. Looks like you had a blast.
    1 point
  10. I agree with @06kfx440 on the pilot jet may somehow still be partially blocked. It happens, I would make sure all of your oem jests are clean back in place, aftermarket cheap ones will not work properly. Make sure all o rings and seals that you may have swapped match in size, oem versus what you put in. The way you are explaining the bowl overflow how I understand it, the screw is leaking ? Not the hose overflow? If thats the case there is most likely a seat gasket or o ring not in place or not properly put back together. If the overflow hose has fuel coming out of it then yes as @06kfx440 says it’s a float adjustment. On the very rear of the carb you have one more jet. It’s located on the intake side/back of the carburetor. It’s called a pilot air jet. Take a look at that and unscrew it and clean it good. Make sure your diaphragm has no holes in it and it’s installed and seated properly at the top of the carburetor since it works on vacuum and don't want any leaks. Back to the air fuel screw, I’m assuming you cleaned it well and put it back in properly and it’s hopefully the oem screw, but double check that the tip of that screw is very pointed and in good condition and the sequence of the screw going back in was right, screw, spring, metal washer and then the o ring. That’s important that it’s correctly done. Then turn the air/fuel screw in and out as the engine is running to see how much the engine reacts to the adjustments. Screw it all the way in and see if the engine shuts down. If not then the air/fuel screw is having problems. If it is responding good then set it at 1-3/4 turns out from a snug position and start the engine. Slowly turn the screw in or out, my guess would be out and the engine should start to rev higher. The higher the better since the air and fuel are mixing properly hence causing higher rpms. (That’s a good thing) Keep adjusting until this high rev starts to break up a bit. Stop turning the screw any further and turn back a hair to that sweet spot where the rev was at its highest point. That’s the sweet spot yiur looking for. Now adjust your idle down to about 800-900 rpm’s or a happy spot you feel comfortable with and see how she runs. I agree with your initial diagnosis of losing power could be a dirty carb issue but unfortunately people think that a new jet or rebuild kit is in order when he truth is it’s only a matter of opening the carb up carefully disassembling it , cleaning and reassembling it. But that’s water under the bridge at this point. This could also have been noting more then a fouled spark plug or a tired secondary ignition coil. Hopefully this helps you out.
    1 point
  11. Was A Great time!! 7 riders I hit 49 MPH and put on 44 miles,I know it was more cause I did not turn it on right away,but we had FUN! I brought my cell phone,no Extras! the last picture is the Scramble area,that was Fun!
    1 point
  12. I’ve never had luck with aftermarket carbs. Spent more time guessing than riding. Let us know some info as you go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. Frank, Bike is running really good, below are a few things I did wrong. In an effort to try and help others like myself who have NEVER worked on a bike, I am sharing my mistakes, and making some mechanical statements based on my observations and experience troubleshooting. Frank please review and correct me if some of my conclusions, or terminology are off. I never did reply to your question as to what model carb, keihin cvk32 I took the following shortcuts: I assumed my air intake was fine, filter was clean and the air box looked almost dust free, I thought the air entered the air box from two what look like rear facing scoops on top the the airbox. I was wrong, it enters from the snorkel that you don't really notice until you pull the air filter off and look underneath. Mud daubers had built a nest in snorkel all but plugging it. After having to take the carb off a dozen times I stopped fully assembling it when I tested. I was NOT tightening the hose clamp on the boot between the head and the carb. This allowed air to bypass the carb reducing the vacuum, when I would open up the throttle all the way, the butterfly valve was opening but not creating enough vacuum in the vacuum chamber to overcome the tension of jet needle spring, so my main jet would never open all the way. the reduced vacuum prevented the main jet from opening up all the way. Since I was not fully assembling the bike I was not test driving after installing the carb each time. This last time I completely assembled everything, engine would still rev up and down a little at full throttle. Well when I took it out for a ride, it ran faster and stronger then it ever has, no issues at full throttle. My carb has probably been fine since I rebuilt it, I just didn't know it because my testing was flawed. Lesson learned. At the end of the ride I noticed my choke was on about a 1/4 when I closed the choke the bike would die. recommended position for the fuel / air screw is 2 1/8 turns and as I recall the last time I adjusted it out about 2 3/4 turns. So now I have what I think are just a few minor adjustments to get things dialed in. Thanks again for all of your help Frank, I leaned far more than I ever thought I would troubleshooting this, If you were closer I would buy you a beer!
    1 point
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