Quantcast
Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/29/2024 in all areas

  1. Welcome, I thought it was only a month or so ago, But I guess its been longer than that. I joined. These are good people and will help where they can. Looking forward to reading some of you posts as well.
    2 points
  2. What ever it is, it's always best to try adjusting the mixture first because that is (even the hard to get at adjusters), the easiest thing to try. It checks the mixture screw is changing the mixture enough too, which is a good thing to check. If winding the screw a full turn each way didn't have a dramatic effect, then it would be a guide/helpful in the diagnosis.
    2 points
  3. Hi, I have been around everything with a motor since I was little, and finally purchased more to get my husband, and kids involved. I have 4 quads I will be searching around for information on. I have two 2002 Suzuki LT80K quads, a 1997 Yamaha Timberwolf 250, and a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I have had different ones throughout the years, and plan on buying another Yamaha Banshee. I plan on trying to learn more about all of them, so I can customize some of them. I know nothing about them besides how to race them, my dad always took care of the rest, but figured it was time for me to learn.
    2 points
  4. Welcome! Good place to learn.
    2 points
  5. Congratulations, welcome to the group. They have lots of manuals here for free. Get you some shop manuals for each one. The manuals and this group should help you out with just about anything.
    2 points
  6. I had an old Yamaha 250 dirt bike that had the stator crap out. Dealer wanted $300 for it. I couldn't afford that, so I rewound it myself for about $20. I just bought a spool of the same diameter wire, made a jig to attach the part to my wife's sewing machine flywheel, began winding on wire to get the same fill. Worked fine. tom (cheap bastard)
    2 points
  7. If it’s blowing black that usually a sign of running rich , if the smoke has a bluish tinge to it it’s oil burning
    1 point
  8. I don't have one, but these look quite good.. There are other designs of special tools for adjusting the hard to get to bike carbs as well.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHYW1PBF?tag=qcforum-20
    1 point
  9. Look the original yamaha part number up on Babbits or Partzilla, and then put that part number into google..
    1 point
  10. Ran across this may help: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/991040/Kazuma-Falcon-150.html
    1 point
  11. Looks like a a couple of fun projects, not really familiar with either, hope the parts are available, the falcon looks familiar, i might have seen one of those once, They are interesting looking, have fun.
    1 point
  12. I just looked in downloads and we don't have it added to our library. It would be good to get some of the later model suzuki king quad service manuals. The cheapest out there right now is probably on ebay: https://ebay.us/qklGSB
    1 point
  13. I have this exact same problem on my2012 800r xmr and after checking everything over I determined the the inner sheave bushing on the secondary was worn out. This will cause the helix to wear and eventually break. These 2 parts are available aftermarket. This will fix your hard shift problem.
    1 point
  14. I think they are a bit light for a sprocket circlip, but they won't break. My pair are more than fifty years old and been used a lot and are still doing the job.
    1 point
  15. Oh yeah. I've got a set of those. I think you'll find they are fairly small tips, good for piston circlips and brake cylinders, circlips about fifteen mill diameter. They'll do a sprocket circlip though. They'll be 0.047" which is close as to 1mm.
    1 point
  16. Not exactly sure what size the holes are but that sounds about right.
    1 point
  17. Looks very well made, should work well.
    1 point
  18. it does sound like a loose battery connection, seen that happen as you described many times
    1 point
  19. Since all the lights went off when it made the clunk noise and didn't start, it means the voltage dropped very low, which is why the starter didn't work, and since it started two hours later the battery can't have been flat, so it must have a bad connection somewhere. You should check the battery cables and the smaller wires going to the fuses and switches are tight everywhere, on the battery, on the body or engine, positive and negative. The battery cables, and wires, can get bad contact where the wire crimps into the metal terminals as well, and to find that you can inspect them, and wriggle them, and/or do what's known as a "voltage drop test". To do the voltage drop test you attach a volt gauge from one end of the cable/wire to the other end of the cable you want to test, and when you press the start button that gauge should stay reading zero volts. If it shows a voltage when you are pressing the start button then it's because there's a bad connection somewhere and some of the power is going through the gauge. Because the bad connection might be in the crimped terminal or the connection between the terminal and the bolt it's attached to though you need the gauge right on the bolt/engine/starter solenoid stud, and right on the battery post. It's also possibly a bad/dirty switch, either key or kill switch. To do a voltage drop test across them you attach the gauge with the key/switch off and it will show battery voltage, but when you turn the switch on it should bypass all the power going through the gauge and the voltage should drop to zero then.
    1 point
  20. Clean primary clutch "one way bearing" pin+spring unit = That is between plate's... When it start to stuck = You loose "neutral".. It will get really hard to "shift".. I'm working with brp stuff Transmission oil would not stuck chance really easy...
    1 point
  21. I have only used all balls carb kits, so far working well, most carb kits are so cheap i cant imagine them being high quality and heard good things about the all balls kit.
    1 point
  22. Check out this chart for example https://www.atvwheelsize.com/tech/atv-wheel-size-explained.html You can check what size tire you can buy for this wheel
    1 point
  23. Just my 2 cents,I fully rebuild my 450 foreman. Also rebuilding yamaha grizzly 350 and had 2x others hand all theese need smaller rebuild, but 80 % of repair is needed on older quads are chassis. And I bought various brand parts, and guaranteed to fit and be reliable are Prox, Winderosa, EPI parts, all balls are sh** except cv axle boots. I buy OEM only if I can find them or they are the same price or slightly differs from NON-OEM. Good luck !
    1 point
  24. When I did a lot of remote roaming about on two wheels I used to fit a spare master link over a brake or clutch cable at the bars.
    1 point
  25. Well, it's all back together. My only concern is, I hope I got the clip on the chain link fully. With my failing eyesight I don't have a lot of faith in things such as that. I test drove it and everything seemed fine I just hope the chain stays together. I want to thank everyone for their experienced support through this job! 👍
    1 point
  26. Use manufacturer catalog and find your carb OEM parts number and then search for non OEM version by this same number, and compare photos of your OEM one and non-OEM. New carb prices are insane which no one want to spend. I also like to use non OEM Carb rebuild kits they are really proper made
    1 point
  27. I usually use a small hammer to get the races started in and once in the hole get a piece of iron pipe or socket the right diameter to push it to the correct position, you can hear when it gets there the sound will be different. I have used a punch but feel it goes in evenly with something of the right diameter.
    1 point
  28. Ok. Glad to hear you got it going. Glad it cured all the problems. $150 to plug in some other customers PCM ? Sounds about right.. Why we need to do things our selves. I would have shipped it to you if you'd got it sent to me. Yell out if there's another time. And yeah, this is a good forum. Having the manuals is a big help, friendly people, no pedantic dribble, good mods.. One of the best.
    1 point
  29. The method I use it a hammer and then a punch. Hold the bearing down on the housing and then tap lightly all around the outer bearing race with a hammer. For those axle bearings you don't tap on the inner race, because it will cause the balls to damage the races. If it was a bearing on a shaft though, they you would use a punch and tap on the inner race.
    1 point
  30. Yeah it should be no trouble. I'd take the chain right off to make sure it didn't somehow mysteriously get drawn around and perhaps bunched up near a crankcase doing some damage. You'd want to keep on eye on ventilation and on the temp if it's in some place without good ventilation.
    1 point
  31. The races seals and O rings are in the Amazon kit, minus the bearing grease, grease is cheap, i prefer Amazon over Ebay for easy returns, if wrong or doesnt fit right and fast shipping.
    1 point
  32. Thanks for the good tips fellas. The main photo just shows the bearings and seals. The small photos to the left shows the races so I'm assuming, I will get those too. I got the sprocket off had to wire axle and sprocket to a post to hold it still. I got lucky and had a couple metal blades for my Super Sawzall. I didn't think that thing would cut that good on bolts like that. Parts won't be here until next week. I guess I might as well put the Stator housing on and adjust the valves. I'll put the new spark plug in after that.
    1 point
  33. There might be a bit of the old bearing cup showing that you can use a punch against to knock it out, or there will be some cut-aways in the aluminium cup seat. It's important to work right the way around the cup as you knock it out. If the cup gets cocked over as it's coming out or going in it will jamb, and if you keep hitting it then it will chew out and distort the bore it's in. It's very important they get hit out and in nice and squarely. If it jambs stop and check which side needs to be tapped to get it straight again, and if need be, tap it back the other way to straighten it up before proceeding..
    1 point
  34. You will also need to hammer the old bearing race out and the new one in for the new bearings.
    1 point
  35. I also have the seal driver that i can never find when i need it, i usually get them started with a small hammer then get a flat piece of metal that covers the whole seal and tap the metal gently, i feel the metal pushes it down evenly, probably not necessary,
    1 point
  36. The Ebay bearings were caltric a semi reputal aftermarket supplier, looked cheap and finish was bad. The second was pivot/works never heard of them but they looked like quality bearings they were more expensive, but i would go with those. I use chiesels a lot but i have never had good luck splitting nuts with them,i always use something else, probably operator error All Balls make good parts i would think there bearings would be good also.
    1 point
  37. And Gw's suggestion of a nut splitter is a good idea given it and the chisel are both the same price. Well... if it's ok quality anyway. The chisel doesn't have anything to go wrong, it can be resharpened, and it's handy for other purposes.
    1 point
  38. That doesnt sound like a bad price, then yow would have everything new and installed correctly,as i recall there is a certain sequence the bearing have to be installed to be correct and you can get it wrong, just check the ratings if its aftermarket for good reviews
    1 point
  39. Dremmell will help, but if its biting into the metal of the shaft it wont make any difference, but will make it look neater and cleaner.
    1 point
  40. Looking at the axel design it looks like with the snap ring removed it should have come off either way, appears to have the same taper on each end. Where it stops it appears that it may have gotton hot there at some point in its life , looks like baked on oil you might clean thaat good with wire wheel and it might slide right on, but the metal may have expanded from the heat in that area causing the problem. Good job! Makes me want to get out and work on mine, but this time of the year i have so much yard work to do.
    1 point
  41. Well done on the perseverance. That's strange about the right-left thing. Perhaps they changed the axle design somewhere along the way.
    1 point
  42. Great you got it all apart, its sometimes easier when you get it out and can work on it. Your shaft looks good i think better thaan the ebay one , bearing carrier doessnt look bad, so you just need some bearings and a sprocket hub. Good work!
    1 point
  43. Well, I got it all apart. Funny thing, after getting the seized bearing off each end and the bearing carrier/ housing, the hub and sprocket slid off the left end of axle on the ground? I'm wondering if the new sprocket hub should go on from the left side first, before anything else goes on the axle shaft and install it that way? end without nut is the sprocket side. now to get sprocket off hub if I can't I'll buy both.
    1 point
  44. Once i get the Bruin 350 repaired, taking it to Rocky Point Mexico to be able to explore the dunes near cholla bay!
    1 point
  45. Jacinda kept the Māori in check, closing your little island island off from outsiders was brilliant, we tried that here and you called us racist. You know everything, google is your friend, look up how the process goes. I'm neither left or right and not looking to sit here and read your post, stop acting like you are serious. I see you people every day clowning on USA. Thank you.
    1 point
  46. Fellas fellas, why are we talking about politics? This is a ATV form? Not a controversial post on Facebook…
    1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. Contrary to what so many conservative Americans think, the Chinese and Asians are just as capable of making quality parts as anyone, and North Americans are just as capable of making junk as the Chinese and other Asians. You want to try to bring some of the manufacturing back to the US? Bring back the tax regime of the'50's where companies and individuals were encouraged to invest and re-invest in the US rather than take their profits and run offshore to invest them while demanding more subsidies from the American taxpayers. Don't blame Asians for the tax and business decisions made at home.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00


×
×
  • Create New...