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I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2

Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.

It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.

You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Not sure about the dial thingy but it should have a knurled thumbscrew on the side somewhere to adjust the ilde speed, and the idle mixture screw is at the front underneath and hidden up a tube. Did you check the rubber inlet manifold wasn't split, or that it doesn't have an air leak somewhere ? Tight valves can make them hard to start and not idle well too.

Welcome everyone! Sorry for the community being down these last few days. We ran into server issues with some database corruption. It took a few days to restore everything.

The fan gets switched on when the oil temperature gets high. The fuel pump gets turned on when you first turn the key but then switches off unless it's getting a pulse from the cdi. The pulse from the cdi is the same pulse that fires the ignition coil, so if you have spark, you have the required pulse to operate the fuel pump relay, you just need to ensure it's getting to the pump control relay. When wires have no continuity, or have high resistance, it's almost right at the end of the wire where it crimps into the metal terminal, it either corrodes or breaks the wires inside the insulation. Wires do sometimes break if they have been chafing for a long time on something and worn right through the electrical tape, insulation, and then the copper wire, but that's easy to spot by the frayed insulation.

I will definitely consider voting for him….although I haven’t spent much time reading up on him. I won’t vote for a radical, even if they are saying things just to cater to a particular group to secure their vote. It’s either him or my vote will be not to vote. Kind of wish they would go ahead and throw Trump in jail and get it over with so we can move on because I would definitely vote for Haley. And yes, I realize that most of the stuff being thrown at Trump is political….but his behavior after the last election and the classified docs thing is a non starter for me. The classified docs thing is criminal. And yes, Biden is a criminal in that regard too, that just means they should be sharing a cell. Doesn’t mean they cancel each other out.

That is the problem with this machine. Everything is in the throttle body ($1,200+). Haven't found a vacuum leak.

I have yet to find a free manual. The TM109919 is for all years so the 2014 would be fine. So again, what are my choices (cant find a freebie): 1. Post a bunch of worthless posts just be be cheap and get the manual for free 2. Buy a manual on eBay for about $30.00 (a CD) 3. Buy a download from some other stranger for $25 4. Donate $29 to you folks. I think I will choose #4 as I need it now, Maybe you folks will have the parts manual too and make it double worth while.

Good for you. Perseverance always wins. Giving up never does. You normally just check and top up the reservoir bottle. If you suspect it's using water you take the radiator cap off when the engine's cold, you top the radiator right to the very top, then you put the cap back on. As the engine heats the level in the overflow bottle will go up, and when it cools the level will drop. It's a good idea to familiarise yourself where the two levels are and always check they are moving from cold to hot. If the radiator gets a small hole or blown gasket the level in the overflow bottle will probably change with use, but sometimes the radiator sucks air in instead of drawing water from the bottle, then the level stops changing from cold to hot. Glancing at the level before starting, then again after it's warmed up, is a good way to spot any problems at an early stage.

Well..... I don't know what I did, or didn't do the first time but after taking it back apart and going through it again, it starts right up without even choking it and purrs like a kitten. Thanks y'all. I have another question as far as coolant, I'll ask but please let me know if I need to start another thread. The coolant reservoir is reading on the Low mark, do I add coolant to the reservoir or in the radiator cap directly? Again, excuse my ignorance but this is my first time on a water cooled Quad...

Hi and thank you for accepting me . I am a crofter in the Scottish Highlands with a Honda TRX350D and a Yukon 150. I need help with the fuel pump on the Honda so will be pestering you all soon, cheers, semicolon😀

Yup, the setting in the book is just to get it running, then it needs adjusting while it's running, and warmed up.. A tool is a huge help.

I always like reading these motocross articles, thanks for sharing.

👍 You are welcome, glad i could help.

I think this one also covers the Kodiak: yfm400fwa{M}-2000 copy.pdf

Update. After taking the carb back off and closer inspection I noticed that the throttle plate was opening to much before the main needle jet even moved any. I have attached a picture. The linkage arm that connects the two had so much play in it that one was opening and the other wasn't doing anything. You can see that I have the idle adjustment screw all the way in and it still wouldn't idle and the choke plunger didn't have any affect when trying to start it. Anyway, By putting a carb kit on it does nothing for this linkage problem so I went ahead and bought a new cheap carb. Put it on, works great. The air/fuel screw now works and the choke and idle screw actually does something. This type of thing can be a gremlin to find. Thanks Mech and Gwbarm.

Good work Admin. I'd give it a "like" except... "like"s not working.. haha.

Decisions like this should be made after careful consideration. I'm skeptical of the CVT transmission myself, but time will tell. Historically, Subaru have been tough little cars. The mail route drivers up here like 'em. Do pay attention to tightening the cylinder head bolts and changing the timing belts on schedule. Good luck!

Ha.. And the price we like too ! Good score..

Great you found them

If it’s blowing black that usually a sign of running rich , if the smoke has a bluish tinge to it it’s oil burning

Start the bike and operate the choke.. You should be able to hear if it's working, or doing nothing. The choke only sucks fuel up when the throttle's closed. Soon as you open the throttle the vacuum drops in the choke circuit and it doesn't lift the fuel right to the top of the venturi where the discharge for the choke is. So it could be on and only go rich when you throttle off hard. It does seem unusual to have fluffy dry soot that fast. That's definitely rich though.. Oil looks wet black. You have got fresh fuel haven't you ? And a good grade ? The compression is probably meant to be nearer 175 Lb but that's warm and with a full open throttle and cranking at the right speed. If it comes up to it's 125 in the first couple of compression strokes it's a good sign. If it has to be cranked a lot and slowly creeps up with each compression stroke it's a bad sign. You could put a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, give it a quick spin with the starter or pull start to distribute the oil, then do a compression check. If the oil raises the compression a lot it points to rings, not valves. Having a tight or leaking valve doesn't normally cause dry fluffy sooty spark plug. Leaking rings doesn't normally cause that sort of soot either.. Only fuel does that. Some bikes say what size the jets are in the parts manuals. You can look that up online, or in a service manual.

Thanks Gwbarm and Mech for your input. I also am having a hard time believing these plugs are fouling so quickly even if rich fuel. I did a compression check initially but the motor was cold and got a 125 reading. That seems to be good but I didn't check that when motor hot. This has a Mikuni carb on it and I put a new kit on it. Yes, I've read alot about those aftermarket kits not having the right size jet holes and things but, Damn, I have no way of telling if the hole sizes are correct. I'm almost thinking about putting the old jets and seats back in it. The choke on this is just a manual push/pull knob type. It's not automatic but it sounds that way when I start it. You don't think the intake valve not seating good would cause this do you? Like I said, it runs good.

First good work on getting this back up to speed. You have done a lot of work. It does sound like you are running rich with your carb, but i dont think thats the problem, no way it could fowl the plug bad enough in 1/2 mile to not start. If it was burning oil the black would be shiny. I wouls start by checking the coil, make sure its in spec, you do have a carb problem if you see no change after adjusting the mixture screw. What type carb are you running and what are your settings and jet sizes. Does it smoke at all when running, and you might also check the compression after its warm and wont start, just for curiosity sake.

It did come from the factory with the AMC 304 V8 i am the second owner and i have had it since the 80s. Great engine but not needed in a Jeep with a 3 speed. Works perfectly for what i use it for, when im going through the woods i put it in 4 wheel drive low in 3 rd gear and never have to shift and just ease through the woods. I had a 57 CJ5 with the 4 cylinder 3 speed when i was in High School never had more fun with any other vehicle i have ever owned, they really made them for work in those days, plenty of power with the 4 wheel drive and low gear and the Willys 4 cylinder. Dont do a whole lot of hunting anymore, but i do love going to the woods and exploring.

My newest vehicle is a 2004 F150 with 300K miles. My daily driver is a 1987 F150. I'd head to the hinterlands with either one, but I trust the 87 more. The CVT transmissions seem too much like wizardry to me, but I prefer the older technology that does not depend on computers. I've worked on vehicles and then a computer manufacturer doing repairs. They're just too delicate AND there's the sensors, wiring, and programming that can fail. Check the prices/availability on a replacement transmission before ya think about buying a car that has one. The people that bought electric cars are choking at the price of a replacement battery. As I've told owners of some cars, insure the hell out of it, leave the keys in the ignition and a dollar bill on the seat. Ya better hope ya don't come back and find two dollars on the seat.

I just had a Suzuki lt 230 quad runner do pretty much the same thing. Riding and bouncing around stirred up junk in the gas tank. I flushed it and it was fine for a couple weeks. Started doing it again , so I flushed the tank again and got more junk out of it. This time I put a inline filter in it. No more issues.

I am glad to be here and join in on this community.

What's up everyone?!

Welcome, and good luck with your Bayou, let us know if we can help.

Yes thank you, I'm still learning to navigate my way around. Anyways thank you for your reply!!

Welcome to quadcrazy, there is a lot of info here.

Welcome, sounds like your in the right place, we love to help get projects back on the trails.

Hello, I just joined this forum I look forward to the knowledge of other people have. I got a vandalized 99 Suzuki LT F250 quadrunner, so anyone knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much!

Welcome to QuadCrazy!

I think you will enjoy, the site, a lot of good information here, sportmans are nice , good luck with it.

Hi everybody!

Hi. I am new to this site. I am at Mariato, Panama and recently purchased and am rehabbing a 2010 Polaris Ranger Crew 800. The frame was eat up with rust so I have a local welder fabricating what needs to be replaced.

Hello, Just came across this forum, always nice to find one that is still active. I'm a farmer with more projects than time to do them, always seem to have some form of three wheeler or quad in the shop. I have a (probably bad) habit of buying old ATVs and ATCs that need work for cheap so I'm always looking for some kind of information or advice on how to keep these old beauties running.

Most of the above. They took the plastics off and looks like they disconnected every electronic cable in the front. They also took off the throttle cable and unit, took out the airbox and disconnected every vacuum tube in that area. Closest I can tell is they were going to remove the carb but never got to it (though I will probably need to since there is still fuel in the tank and probably in the carb that has been there for who knows how many years). Thankfully, the engine is still all together. I can turn it over using the hand pull after opening the vacuum release, so it turns and seems to have good vacuum (though I don't have a vacuum tester yet to see what it really is). The front brakes don't do anything but the back work well. I am needing to download the manual (once I reach 10 posts) to begin to really look at it. Hoping to get a battery attached to it soon so I can begin to see if there is any power to anything and begin figuring out the wiring to re-connect it.

Hello name is not important but the game is,grew up in a shop, grandfather had,been working and messing around with stuff for some 50 years now. Worked as a Diesel mechanic for a while,then went to bmw, Volvo, Toyota,ect cars and trucks. After retired, as wife said I have to,I now work on small engines ect especially quads and bikes of all shapes and sizes,just am posting this to let it out that if I can help I'm here probably have done it or have seen it done before.

Yeah - it will be fun! Every tube and wire on it seems to be disconnected. But, it is a project for my son and myself so no matter what happens, it is worth it. Once I get the manual, we'll see if we can figure it all out.

Welcome to all new members. There ar a lot of good peeps here and lots of info to be found. Enjoy your time at QC!

Welcome Adam. I joined recently and have found help with my 2004 Suzukin LT80. Lots of good resources.

Hello everyone. New here and trying to learn everything I can. Bought my first atv this weekend. 94 Polaris sportsman 400. It needs a little work but only has 540 miles! Excited to learn from you all. Adam

new here. just trying to learn some stuff

Thanks for the warm welcome, Gwbarm. Happy to be here! My fleet at present is as follows: 2000 Kodiak 400 - runs, good condition 2005 Predator 90 - runs, great condition 1985 LT230GE - project 1987 Trail Boss 250 - project 1998 Sportsman 6x6 - project 1999 ranger 6x6 - project