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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2024 in all areas

  1. I figured you had probably cleaned them while apart ,just thought i would mention it. I usually start with the mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated and adjust it until its running the best usually end up between 2 and 3 turns out. There is a tool that makes this easier Amazon sells several versions this is the one they recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Adjustment-Screwdriver-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B0BMTG92J7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3UOBFMYX0H15D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TkpaU_CuOz3g4qBIsE0V3kMWh2LbJ8B--hRZEtRfDG6FSmQaIMAT_bCclJwC3rMnlvUzYzqd3kfdzlVuSTgdmgMuzklKuPmVjr-telZpWZ7oufONGBcix2tI-Rwb2C_ziP_sMT2DT7g3C8s0XdkPuIEQC912TUXCxnpQSyz9Bia0ezgQQFdmCzIAmYA24MGkC7qF6doGOWJFnrzv44euu_ifx_hXcVP3zMKQndygysd3y0i9_T3lYxf6MyfyiRp5xSS5B4n_kc2vi5fQWTjEfBK5ahg-fwd4528zGtdYGuw.dK0eY_t2Q-uOOZ41B5km52z_Z3V1Rmb8ydWD4HfRYh0&dib_tag=se&keywords=atv+adjusting+screwdriver&qid=1712854997&sprefix=atv+adjusting+screwdriver%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-2
    3 points
  2. Nothing beats a cigarette, Wish I still smoked The 02 sensor was bad (threads were stripped and it fit loosely in the housing but wasn't the real problem. Can disconnect both 02 sensors and no change. Throttle cable not really adjustable and IAC is integral to the throttle body and not serviceable.
    2 points
  3. It's likely that the O2 sensor wasn't defective. It quite likely was just struggling to control the mixture within acceptable limits and so reported it as not working. That's quite common with O2 sensors. They are one of the most miss-diagnosed components. I'd be checking the throttle cable adjustment, the fuel flow and pressure, the IAC operation(might operate on 5volts so be careful), and the spark plug gap and condition.
    2 points
  4. You have power to the relay, so now you need to check the relay is getting power to activated it, and that it has an earth on it's activation windings. If that side of the relay is operating, you need to check whether the power is getting from the relay to the pump, and that the pump has an earth. If you tell us what year and model this is I'll try to check in a manual how the pump and relay are actually wired. It's possible that the pump, or the relay, are powered and then get switched by connecting an earth to one or both of them.
    2 points
  5. Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??
    2 points
  6. Not sure about the dial thingy but it should have a knurled thumbscrew on the side somewhere to adjust the ilde speed, and the idle mixture screw is at the front underneath and hidden up a tube. Did you check the rubber inlet manifold wasn't split, or that it doesn't have an air leak somewhere ? Tight valves can make them hard to start and not idle well too.
    2 points
  7. Welcome everyone! Sorry for the community being down these last few days. We ran into server issues with some database corruption. It took a few days to restore everything.
    2 points
  8. Welcome, I thought it was only a month or so ago, But I guess its been longer than that. I joined. These are good people and will help where they can. Looking forward to reading some of you posts as well.
    2 points
  9. What ever it is, it's always best to try adjusting the mixture first because that is (even the hard to get at adjusters), the easiest thing to try. It checks the mixture screw is changing the mixture enough too, which is a good thing to check. If winding the screw a full turn each way didn't have a dramatic effect, then it would be a guide/helpful in the diagnosis.
    2 points
  10. Hi, I have been around everything with a motor since I was little, and finally purchased more to get my husband, and kids involved. I have 4 quads I will be searching around for information on. I have two 2002 Suzuki LT80K quads, a 1997 Yamaha Timberwolf 250, and a 1996 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I have had different ones throughout the years, and plan on buying another Yamaha Banshee. I plan on trying to learn more about all of them, so I can customize some of them. I know nothing about them besides how to race them, my dad always took care of the rest, but figured it was time for me to learn.
    2 points
  11. Welcome! Good place to learn.
    2 points
  12. Congratulations, welcome to the group. They have lots of manuals here for free. Get you some shop manuals for each one. The manuals and this group should help you out with just about anything.
    2 points
  13. 2 downloads

    2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 Service Manual
    1 point
  14. Not much to the throttle body that you can access. There are only 2 little holes where are the good stuff is located that cannot be serviced. Just pulled out the entire throttle body and cleaned it (wasn't really dirty) but don't expect it to do much.
    1 point
  15. That is the problem with this machine. Everything is in the throttle body ($1,200+). Haven't found a vacuum leak.
    1 point
  16. I have yet to find a free manual. The TM109919 is for all years so the 2014 would be fine. So again, what are my choices (cant find a freebie): 1. Post a bunch of worthless posts just be be cheap and get the manual for free 2. Buy a manual on eBay for about $30.00 (a CD) 3. Buy a download from some other stranger for $25 4. Donate $29 to you folks. I think I will choose #4 as I need it now, Maybe you folks will have the parts manual too and make it double worth while.
    1 point
  17. Yup, the setting in the book is just to get it running, then it needs adjusting while it's running, and warmed up.. A tool is a huge help.
    1 point
  18. 👍 You are welcome, glad i could help.
    1 point
  19. I know what you mean i was just getting used to the bells and whistles on the 11 year old one and now i have one that beeps when i take my eyes off the road and turns off the car at a red light along with helping me steer and stop, all these safety features are going to cause me to wreck just trying to figure out what the car is trying to do.
    1 point
  20. Update. After taking the carb back off and closer inspection I noticed that the throttle plate was opening to much before the main needle jet even moved any. I have attached a picture. The linkage arm that connects the two had so much play in it that one was opening and the other wasn't doing anything. You can see that I have the idle adjustment screw all the way in and it still wouldn't idle and the choke plunger didn't have any affect when trying to start it. Anyway, By putting a carb kit on it does nothing for this linkage problem so I went ahead and bought a new cheap carb. Put it on, works great. The air/fuel screw now works and the choke and idle screw actually does something. This type of thing can be a gremlin to find. Thanks Mech and Gwbarm.
    1 point
  21. Ha.. And the price we like too ! Good score..
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. If it’s blowing black that usually a sign of running rich , if the smoke has a bluish tinge to it it’s oil burning
    1 point
  24. Start the bike and operate the choke.. You should be able to hear if it's working, or doing nothing. The choke only sucks fuel up when the throttle's closed. Soon as you open the throttle the vacuum drops in the choke circuit and it doesn't lift the fuel right to the top of the venturi where the discharge for the choke is. So it could be on and only go rich when you throttle off hard. It does seem unusual to have fluffy dry soot that fast. That's definitely rich though.. Oil looks wet black. You have got fresh fuel haven't you ? And a good grade ? The compression is probably meant to be nearer 175 Lb but that's warm and with a full open throttle and cranking at the right speed. If it comes up to it's 125 in the first couple of compression strokes it's a good sign. If it has to be cranked a lot and slowly creeps up with each compression stroke it's a bad sign. You could put a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, give it a quick spin with the starter or pull start to distribute the oil, then do a compression check. If the oil raises the compression a lot it points to rings, not valves. Having a tight or leaking valve doesn't normally cause dry fluffy sooty spark plug. Leaking rings doesn't normally cause that sort of soot either.. Only fuel does that. Some bikes say what size the jets are in the parts manuals. You can look that up online, or in a service manual.
    1 point
  25. Dry black soot sure sounds like too much fuel. The mixture adjustment doing nothing is always a sign of something wrong in a carb. Since it's running good, no mention of missing or hard start etc I'd doubt the ignition is at fault. Check it's got a reasonably fat blue spark. Ignition systems with resistor caps or leads can have a skinny spark, but it should be blue. If it looks yellow it's a bad sign. If the soot is only on the porcelain tip it might pay to try a hotter plug. If it lost it's spark suddenly it might have a wet plug, but it wouldn't have black soot. I'd make sure the fuel tap was good and not filling the sump with fuel. And if it's got a vacuum controlled tap check that isn't letting fuel into the vacuum line. Then I'd start looking at the mixture. Choke's going right off, check that first because the choke only works when the throttle's shut so they run ok with a stuck on choke, till you throttle off, then air-filter, intake piping isn't crushed or blocked(mouse nest), carb breather tubes, fuel tank breather. It might be that the richness is intermittent, or caused by heat or the time run. So check the carb breathers, and tank's not presurising. Then It'd be off with the carb for another look. Check the float height(can be done before pulling the carb off) and that it isn't sinking, check the idle mixture screw tip and the seat the screw goes into for damage, check the float needle seat is sealed to the body, the breather drillings are clear, all the drillings are clear, the jets are the right size, the slide needle is the right one and attached to the slide, the slide isn't sticking. Reassemble and check the idle mixture is responsive. If it isn't then there's still something wrong in the carb.
    1 point
  26. You are aware that America is not a democracy we are a constuitional republic.
    1 point
  27. I haven't been following the small SUV market, and don't even know who has what models for sale. I buy used and abused, fixing what's broke and driving like I have no cares and all the time in the world. It's cheaper that way.
    1 point
  28. I know this post is a couple months old, but have you had good luck with these carbs? I had bought a cheap one on Amazon awhile back for a mower, and it seemed ok for the short time I had it...🤷🏼‍♂️
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Welcome, and good luck with your Bayou, let us know if we can help.
    1 point
  31. Howdy y'all. New here and excited to get a dead Bayou 220 back on the trails.
    1 point
  32. Welcome to quadcrazy, there is a lot of info here.
    1 point
  33. Welcome, sounds like your in the right place, we love to help get projects back on the trails.
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. Being new in the quad family it is nice to know there are places like this I can learn and get help
    1 point
  36. Hi all, I am new to this site and joined because I am always looking for help and ideas for my restoration projects I do. Also just enjoy riding around in my free time
    1 point
  37. Yeah, a couple of my friends have sportmans as well, they seem to be good quads. I helped one of them fix their speedometer after they ran it with a dead battery and blew up some components on the circuit board.
    1 point
  38. Hi. I am new to this site. I am at Mariato, Panama and recently purchased and am rehabbing a 2010 Polaris Ranger Crew 800. The frame was eat up with rust so I have a local welder fabricating what needs to be replaced.
    1 point
  39. Hello, Just came across this forum, always nice to find one that is still active. I'm a farmer with more projects than time to do them, always seem to have some form of three wheeler or quad in the shop. I have a (probably bad) habit of buying old ATVs and ATCs that need work for cheap so I'm always looking for some kind of information or advice on how to keep these old beauties running.
    1 point
  40. Most of the above. They took the plastics off and looks like they disconnected every electronic cable in the front. They also took off the throttle cable and unit, took out the airbox and disconnected every vacuum tube in that area. Closest I can tell is they were going to remove the carb but never got to it (though I will probably need to since there is still fuel in the tank and probably in the carb that has been there for who knows how many years). Thankfully, the engine is still all together. I can turn it over using the hand pull after opening the vacuum release, so it turns and seems to have good vacuum (though I don't have a vacuum tester yet to see what it really is). The front brakes don't do anything but the back work well. I am needing to download the manual (once I reach 10 posts) to begin to really look at it. Hoping to get a battery attached to it soon so I can begin to see if there is any power to anything and begin figuring out the wiring to re-connect it.
    1 point
  41. @kp3004x4 - We'll need a lot of help, I'm sure! I've worked on bikes and small engines, but not on something that I haven't taken apart and was this complicated!
    1 point
  42. Yeah - it will be fun! Every tube and wire on it seems to be disconnected. But, it is a project for my son and myself so no matter what happens, it is worth it. Once I get the manual, we'll see if we can figure it all out.
    1 point
  43. Its always a challenge putting something back together that you didn't take apart, but with the repair manual and the helpful people on this site its very doable, im doing the same with a Yamaha.
    1 point
  44. Hi! New owner of a Suzuki King Quad 300 that needs a lot of work to get going. Former owner ripped it apart to try to fix something and never got it together again. Now, I'm going to see if I can get it going and have some fun with it. Steve
    1 point
  45. Welcome Adam. I joined recently and have found help with my 2004 Suzukin LT80. Lots of good resources.
    1 point
  46. Hello everyone. New here and trying to learn everything I can. Bought my first atv this weekend. 94 Polaris sportsman 400. It needs a little work but only has 540 miles! Excited to learn from you all. Adam
    1 point
  47. Welcome Larry, great place to learn, really good people , always willing to help and share experiences.
    1 point
  48. new here. just trying to learn some stuff
    1 point
  49. My wife said the same but about 2!!!!!
    1 point
  50. Thanks for the warm welcome, Gwbarm. Happy to be here! My fleet at present is as follows: 2000 Kodiak 400 - runs, good condition 2005 Predator 90 - runs, great condition 1985 LT230GE - project 1987 Trail Boss 250 - project 1998 Sportsman 6x6 - project 1999 ranger 6x6 - project
    1 point
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