wanrep

2011 with a bad tranny....not surprising.  It's a cvt/belt set up.  Expect a dealer to charge around $3500 to put a new one in.

Bombardier made the Trail Buck for John Deere.  Same as the Traxter 650.  Now it'll be listed as a CanAm Traxter 650.

7 hours ago, Greg Balesteri said:

hello from ca

That was a quick 10. You win a manual. lol

59V is the engine code for a 1986 YFM225 

If I remember correctly, the driveshaft just slips off the bevel gear shaft. Just have to loosen the clamp on the boot. No need to take anything apart on the bevel gear housing.  Just remove it from the engine.

It's been a while since I did this so I checked the SM and you don't have to worry about getting into the tranny. The part on the end of the shift drum is accessible when you take the switch off.  I'd check that part first before you order any parts. It's possible that the contact pin on that part is stuck. Kaw calls that part reverse stopper.

I checked my wiring diagram for the 220 and you are correct. That switch provides the ground for the starter relay/neutral light AND the reverse light.

15 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Outstanding @wanrep thank you and holy sh** that sucks. I had a feeling I i was going to have to tear into it.   I would say the hell with it and leave it be but that’s not me. Ok then first order of business is the gaskets and switch.  Where did you pick the switch up? 

I wonder what actually fails in that switch.  

I got the switch off Ebay.

There's a piece on the end of the shift drum that makes contact with the switch. Make sure it turns when you shift gears. If not, you're really screwed cuz you'll have to get into the transmission to replace it. When you pull the switch out, take a pair of needle nose pliers and short the 2 contacts on the switch and see if the neutral light comes on.

Oh...don't forget to get a bevel gear case gasket when you get your switch.  That should be all you need.

It's pretty ignorant for Kaw to put that switch where they did but....

You'll have to unbolt the swingarm and shocks then pull the swingarm back enough to disengage the driveshaft.  Then unbolt the bevel gear case.  I think there's seven bolts on it. Then you can change the switch.  It took me a couple hours the first time.

Does holding the override button in make any difference?

1 hour ago, Danny Gardner said:

I've checked the ETC, and its good, I also unplugged it and tried it, the idle speed screw I have adjusted, but I haven't checked the idle mixture screw, should that be at 2 1/2 out? 

2 1/2 out is a good starting point. It should idle at that setting.

2 things come to mind. 1) check the ETC in the throttle. Make sure there is a gap between the contacts at idle or you can just unplug the wires coming from it.

2) the idle mixture screw or the idle speed screw need adjusting.

Regarding the drain hose...it's also connected to the overflow tube inside the float bowl.  If the float valve ever sticks open, the excess fuel will run out on the ground instead of filling up the crankcase with gas.

You'll need one of these tools to adjust the idle mixture with it running.

It's not uncommon for case halves to not have a gasket.  Your Bayou is one of them.

I use Threebond 1184.  Just a light coat on one case half then assemble.  Make sure both surfaces are cleaned with brake clean before applying.

Each manufacturer has their own case sealer also.  Yamabond 4 is a good one.  Suzuki, Honda & Kaw have theirs too.

I'd stay away from silicone sealer although it can be used in a pinch. The mistake guys make is using too much.  It gets into oil passages and blocks them.

On the old Suzuki 2-stroke 50cc, they used a restrictor plate/washer between the exhaust pipe and head to slow it down.

On the 80, they put a spacer on top of the carb slide so it would only open half way.

Kymco is o.k.  I've worked on a few.  Not on the level of Honda but definitely not Chinese junk.

Confession....I've got 2 little Chinese ATV's that I let the grandkids ride. lol

Speaking from a repair shop's point of view, you can't go wrong with Honda or Yamaha.

Polaris is the most popular brand in our area of the country.  I see them the most.  It seems it's not a question of "if" something will break, it's "when".

My least favorite brand, other than Chinese, is Arctic Cat. PITA to work on.

Yep, that's it.  I'm 99.9% sure it's an '04 Kodiak 400 4wd engine.

You'll need the CDI and voltage reg/rect. for the Kodiak.  Maybe a used wiring harness if your connectors or wires are melted.  With the 2 wiring diagrams, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out how to get it going again.

Good luck.

That CDI unit was used on '03 & '04 Kodiak 400's.  There should be an engine number stamped in the side of the right crankcase housing right where the rear driveshaft comes out.  What's that number?

What's the number stamped in the engine case?

Yes it's metric but I don't know what size.

Time to go to Harbor Freight and get that metric socket set you've been wanting. lol

I'm curious as to what caused the timing chain to jump 4 teeth.  That's a lot for just a worn chain.

When you did a leakdown test, did you get at least 85%?

When you turn the motor over by hand, do the valves look like they're opening and closing at the right time?

Is the locating pin for the cam sprocket in good shape?

Yes, both clutches in your '86 are the same as an '88.

You might want to pull the drive clutch off and make sure everything is sliding freely.  Inspect the rollers for flat spots.

When it won't pull, is the engine bogging down or not.  Trying to determine if the clutch is slipping.