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Frank Angerano

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Frank Angerano last won the day on November 16

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  1. The rust is no big deal I was saying it looked new. Color looks great and seems very fresh. Grease is a must when reassembling.
  2. That drive shaft looks new. The u joints need grease. Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end. Where the rear differential and the shaft meet? So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low. Might as well take a looK while it’s open.
  3. The cdi needs voltage to work. Take a look at this pic. If this is your diagram for a US made 1995 I circled and arrowed the area. The brown wire coming into the switch should be 12v +. It should send voltage to the Y/R wire which goes to the cdi. That Y/R wire should have 12 v at the cdi. The cdi gets its pick up coil signal from the Bk/W wire coming from the pick up coil and gets amplified and sent out of the cdi via G/W to the secondary ignition coil that supplies spark to the plug. Make sure your grounds are good including the main frame ground and on the secondary coil at the spark plug. The cdi has diodes inside them that can go bad and create stray voltage. Not sure if you tested the cdi on another bike but I have. A feeling it’s the cdi.
  4. Nothing worse then waiting for parts! Here is a topic on differential fluids. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-equipment/atv-and-utv/sport/synthetic-atv-utv-transmission-and-differential-fluid/?zo=34396
  5. It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you. The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them. See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out.
  6. Man that’s a tough gremlin you got going on. So the only few things that could be doing this then is a short within the wiring maybe along the frame ? Could be a bad connection on one of the plugs even the single pin and sleeve plugs that are all over the harness. Maybe take them apart, clean up and add some dialectic grease and reconnect. Check to see that your ignition switch is ok, I’ve seen some people find that wiggling the switch allowed the bike to fire up due to poor contacts within the switch that sends voltage to the cdi. Some only have two wires, a brown and white, if so then it’s good if your getting dash lights but check thats your model. You tested continuity on the kill switch that it’s opening and closing yes ? You checked continuity from each phase of the stator to ground yes ? (Should get no continuity) Main fuse on the starter relay? Im just throwing random shit out there and trying to jog my memory from my bayou.
  7. I was just looking at the manual and that does seem weird that it just slides off. Are there any bolts/brackets missing on the swing arm or any bushingS that seem not right ? There should be a constant pressure holding all that together. The bayou is a little different and locks in with all four of the bolt you see on the bevel gear housing case. I would definitely inspect every bushing and bolt back there and make sure everything is tight. How do the universal joints look and feel ? You could spray it good with a cleaner and add a drop of silicone then slide it back in and let it dry. Maybe that will stop if from sliding out. My last guess is that the seal itself has worn down from rotation and has gotten shorter which means replacement.
  8. I’m sorry I thought you took it apart and screwed the nuts on for safe keeping. So that drive shaft pops on and what holds it in place? It looks different from the previous pic you posted. A lot dirtier lol. So you unbolted the swing arm and backed it off ? I have only taken the bayous apart and they are very similar so forgive me for being a little confused. Post a few more pics if you can.
  9. I wouldn’t focus on the irregularities of the spinning readings. The coil is supposed to be tested while it’s not spinning and away from the magnet. It has to be on ohms and you should get pretty much the same number every time you test it. If it’s within spec it’s good. Then the same tests should be done on each phase of the stator coil wires. Between phases (wires) and then from each phase to ground for continuity. If all that comes back good then it’s something else.
  10. Maybe onto something, reach out to Gatorade maybe pitch it to them ! 😂 I can see all the athletes jumping in Gatorade sausage lmao. Going to have a lot of pissed off Italians lol.
  11. So it could be a bad pick up coil if the numbers aren’t good. But without the flywheel spinning and the magnet not near the pick up coil do you get an ohms reading on the two wires ?
  12. Good stuff right there. Fire starring skills on point. Gatorade and sausages .... not so much lol. But that place looks like a blast to ride. Where do you find these places ?
  13. Nice work. That black seal is the O ring. It’s probably crushed a bit and that’s why it leaked. Obviously your changing the boot since it has holes in it correct? Get some carb cleaner spray and spray it on that dirt and wipe it clean. pop in the new O ring seal then add a drop of grease on the splines before you put it back together and your good to go. Just make sure you tighten the four nuts in a crisscross configuration so it seats evenly, I like to put a drop of lock tight on the threads.

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