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Frank Angerano

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Everything posted by Frank Angerano

  1. Agreed @spock58 but it looks like all the internals are new. That brass looks a little bit too clean to me?
  2. $40 bucks??? And @Ajmboy says I find all the deals lol. listen if the plastics are good and the atv is in tact for the most part then yes $500 would be worthwhile. It would sell for $1000 to $900 in good running condition. The plastics and parts would be worth about $600 plus if you just want to part it out and thats a minimum estimate. If you think you could get that atv back to good for $500 then do it but make sure your not wrong and check all the gears and differentials as well. Be a shame if you did all that just to find out there is a drive train problem.
  3. Great work! Make sure you add grease to the cam lobes prior to start up and your timing is correct. New valve seals as well I'm assuming?
  4. Nice work. It looks spotless, I would not cut that gasket. It will tighten up and fit back in. If you cut that rubber it will leak.
  5. What I would do is take a stainless steel corner square and place it down on a flat surface. Then put the ring in the corner of the square and check for the slope against the edges of the square and then flip the ring over and check again.
  6. If the dark spots are just grease from your fingers then yes the cylinder is fine. The ring should be tapered and not noticeable to the eye without really looking at it or putting it up agains a flat surface like a smooth piece of steel or on a metal ruler but its tough to see. Did you look on the flat spot of the rings, the rings are usually marked there?
  7. Very good! That air fuel screw is tapered and fits into an air passage in the carb, so turning the screw out increases the airflow. Some carburetors are different but most work this way. Over time the screws tapered edge wears away and the adjustment gets less sensitive. The optimal position where the engine is at max performance is usually done with the engine running. As you turn the screw in one direction or the other the engine revs higher or lower. Higher is what your looking for the higher it revs the better the air fuel ratio is getting and you keep going in that direction until the engine starts to rev lower. Thats the spot where you stop and come back a hair.
  8. No worries on the time spent helping out. Thats what Quadcrazy is here for. I honestly feel like the air fuel screw is to far out. I would set it at 2-1/4 out from a snug position. NOW i know you cleaned the carburetor and reassembled it and probably did and amazing job. Problem is sometimes we miss things or something has gotten back inside the carburetor. Are you 100% sure the gas tank is clean and not full of dirt ? If so add a fuel filter. So I would pull the carburetor one more time and open it up to inspect the ports, orafaces and jets. Make sure its clean and blow out all the holes and Jets etc with compressed air. Reset the clip on the main jet needle as per the manual and adjust the float so that the fuel stops flowing at about 3/4 way up. You can verify this by leaving the bowl off of the carburetor and putting a clean hose on the fuel line inlet on the carb. Hold the carb so its in the proper right side up position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming from the fill needle. Slowly raise the float up with your hand while blowing and it should stop at around 3/4 way up. If so your good to go on that, if not make the adjustment. Set the air fuel screw as i mentioned and put it all together. Remember what we discussed, the air fuel screw is the small screw that's underneath the carb and goes into the carburetor the one I circled in the pic a few posts back. Its a pain in the ass to adjust when its back on the atv especially while its running so you have to take a small flat head screwdriver and cut it to about 3 inches or so long and then add a little tape to the end so you can turn it with your hand. Before you make any adjustments when you get the carburetor back on try running the atv at 2-1/4 out and see how it goes. If not make the adjustment while the engine is running. Come out a quarter turn at a time. I'm sure this sounds like a lot but its all doable and takes time but it pays off. I cant tell you how many times I've had to pull a carburetor again. Just keep your patients.
  9. Hahaha verbal lubrication lmao. @davefrombc that was great stuff right there! A carburetor is a carburetor is a carburetor! One thing I'm going to add to this topic is, I've loosened the carburetor clamps up and rotated it to remove the bowl and float while the carburetor was still on the machine. I have also dropped the pin that holds the float and the fill valve needle which took me forever to locate! So if your going down that road then be sure to add a rag or something bright and that if something should fall its got a bright and contained landing area. My personal opinion is to remove the carb since its not to difficult to do after you get the hang of it and getting that needle back up in there is not so easy to do while its on the engine.
  10. Your doing great brother. Its not rocket science just old rusted stuff that needs to be freed up again. Keep up the good work
  11. Nice work brother. So spray the cam lobe with penetration oil as well and let them sit. The cam should rotate with the brake lever and expand the cam in between the brake shoes thus expanding them. There is a brake grease you can and should put on the lobe when your all free and moving and ready to close it all up. The area I circled should move. Spray the shit out of everything except the surface of the brake pads and hit everything with a wire brush. You can out blue painters tape on the brake pad surface before spraying it all down.
  12. Yep just as i figured lol. Oh well, its got a Suzuki engine and ton of decent parts. Maybe get it running and sell it cheap.
  13. Baja and Suzuki I'm assuming did a joint venture ??
  14. Im not sure sure this was a deal lol. Its in rough shape.
  15. Def good to do as @spock58 mentioned. Reason I'm asking about damp conditions is my old fourtrax used to lose spark when it was damp. Turned out my cdi outer casing was separating from the epoxy fill and letting moisture in. If it dried out it had spark again.
  16. Your going to need a wheel puller with long arms. Check out amazon they have a few different types. You may have to get the type that has hooks to go into the holes on the drum or take a few large hose clamps and put them around the drum, tighten good and use a standard type long arm puller.
  17. $30 a gal ???? Yep thank god for peak or prestone!! Fuel injectors yes def a good point, it all depends on how long it soaked and if it was fresh or salt water.
  18. Your very welcome, a lot of the cooling systems work that way. If you get stuck let me know we will go deeper.
  19. Soooooooo believe it or not the guy who bought my Mojave reached out to me and said that his son loves the bike and now he wants to ride! Asked me if I had a bike for him to learn an easy rider type atv. You guys know I love that bear tracker but i let it go only because it went to the right person. So he shows up and has a quad in the back of the truck. He said its a Baja and has no need for it to make him an offer. Said it didn't run and it was small for him and it had a clutch. I had no need for it but wound up giving him $50 off the price of the bear tracker and threw it in the garage. I've heard of Baja but never seen one. Turns out it has a Suzuki engine on it and its a 330cc. Im not familiar with it at all. It had no spark but does now due to a wiring fault i found, compression is good and it cranks, carb and gas stink to high heaven of varnish but i have no time to go any deeper right now. Just curious on any background on the Baja's from anyone? Im sure il have it fired up right after the new year but its a strange looking thing.

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