Frank Angerano

 Well let's start with any gasket leaks first. I.e. Head gasket, base head gasket etc.  Maybe a valve issue not likely but have to look. If all checks out well then a new piston and rings are in order. At this point I'm sure you are capable of changing them and with the support of this site it will work out.  Even if the cylinder is not in the best shape a piston/rings will last a long time. But befor you order any new parts it's important to see what that cylinder head looks like. 

This usually happens when the float in the carb is stuck in the down position. It's meant to not flood the engine so it comes out of the overflow tube. You can try to tap the side of the bottom portion of the carb and it should pop the fioat back to its normal position. This however should be looked at. Take the carb apart and adjust the float it's a little technical with regard to how the adjustment is done but can be walked through.  Also the float can have a puncture and is sunk in the bowl thus allowing fuel to flood the bowl.  Or something holding the float pin open. 

Most likely it's due for a change based on the year and what sounds like is happening. I changed mine because I felt the same type of thing. A little bit of slipping that I had as well. Plus it's a 2000 figured it can't hurt.

I was very happy afterward. The bike grabbed much better and up/down hill were 100% better.  As far as what to change I only changed plates and springs. 

Great job. Bike looks crazy! 

Hopefully it's all fixed up and no more clutch dumping !!!!!!!!

I feel your pain $500 is a lot for a carb. $29.00 you get a complete rebuild kit comes with the set screws, seals, jets etc. just saying but I'm a little Leary of the aftermarket carbs. 

Wow well it's narrowed down to the carb and intake. Having spark is a huge battle relief. Try the spray if it fires then clearly a fuel delivery issue. Quick question new carb oem or aftermarket ? Does it have a brand name? Sometimes the aftermarket ones are garbage. 

If the carb turns out to be ok then maybe look at the manifold that the carb is mounted to. Maybe a blockage ? 

How did you check it? Has to be ohms test not voltage. If you go back and look at some of my old posts I asked the same questions about the stator testing. If someone jumped started that bike or welded on the bike as I learned here on the forum can damage the stator. It will still make voltage! Don't be fooled. But simplify this entire spark issue by checking for spark. Pull the plug put it on the ignition wire and test for spark while cranking the engine. If spark is there that's a huge relief! 

Ok so the rev limiter/etc is on this bike. Took it apart to have a look and mechanically it all seems to work. I jumped the wires and it does its job. So before I went any further I went back to the throttle valve and re adjusted the needle,  setting the clip lower to one click before the bottom. This seemed to clear up a lot of the backfiring issues and the bike is def running cleaner. Plug is better in color but not perfect. 

My only and last concern is the air mixture screw on the carb. It does not seem to do much when I make any adjustment to it as the engine is running.  I've worked on hundreds of carbs and always got a change in the motor as I adjusted.  The adjustment screw looks a little blunt at the tip. Wondering if it's either the wrong screw that was put back in? Maybe it's supposed to be that way? Thinking a complete rebuild kit is in order with new set screws and jets etc. 

I spoke to the previous owner yesterday and he said he took the carb apart not knowing what he was doing and also moved the needle on the throttle valve as well via "a friend that knows a little about carbs" lol. Fml. 

Sounds like ajmboy is right on point with this. Question why did you change cdi, stator etc? No spark issue? Reason why I'm asking I went through the same problem with my electrical system "Yamaha" and replaced the same components. Thanks to the help of this forum. However after I Installed the new stator the bike started right up but seemed to run really weird, starting not starting etc so I put the old cdi back in and the bike fired and ran perfectly. Turns out the new cdi did not work correctly with that bike even though it was for that bike but not an oem part. And did you change the coil going to the plug? Shot in the dark but I found mine cracked. Just a few points to check out. 

 Having said all of that I'm going to agree on the carberator problem.  I recently took mine apart twice and found the first time I missed a few spots while cleaning. Def take that float needle out and clean it good and a trick I use is taking an old bicycle brake cable and separating the strands cutting one strand off about 6 inches long and use that to get inside the small orafaces of the carb and use the small cans of compressed air that you buy at any local stationary store to blow out he small ports it comes with the small tube to attach to the nozzle.

Hope this helps. Good luck. 

Awesome reply. It's a 2005 and I am not sure if it has that ETC. I will look when I get back to the bike great info on that. Now onto the crank case vent system. Air box had oil residue inside. Oil level was to high. Drained down to proper level and also found a few broken spots on the tubing. Made all repairs and i feel like it helped out with the bike settling down a bit. Can't wait to check that throttle control.  Now having said all of that I went through the carb twice yesterday blew it out and and sent a small wire through the jets and ports. Also Moved the clip on the needle in the throttle valve but not sure about the factory location of the needle setting. Put in a new throttle cable in as well.

I ran the bike for about a half hour and so far the backfiring had stopped not sure if it's because of the throttle work I did and that is because the ETC is satisfied? I ran out of time and did not have a chance to check pug color hoping it's that nice toasty color we all love to see! 

I will get back to you on the throttle control/revlimiter! 

Thanks a million  great info!

I did some research and four out that this bike/engine has an "oil separator". Has anyone heard of this? It's part number 23 on the attached diagram. It has three connecting tubes from the bottom of the engine then to the top and then to the air filter box. What's the purpose?

Ok sooooo spark check all good. Great device btw. The carberator had some serious issues. I rebuilt it again today. The air mixture screw seems weird. Almost like it's the wrong one. Anyway definitely improved. Now. I think I found what I believe is a PCV system on this bike ? It runs from the crank case up to the head and to the air filter via a three way box. Found a major break in the hose on that as well (fixed it ) and it calmed down a lot.  Plug still looks a little black. I think a new carb is in order. Anyone know about that PCV system ? 

So I'm pitch black and backfire every few seconds after it warms up. Going to check the spark after it warms up. 

Get back to you shortly 

If the plug is completely blackened it's obviously not a fuel delivery issue correct ? Too rich yes but def not starving yes? Maybe over delivery ?

Great. Just picked it up. Going to see if the spark has any loss.  

Thanks. Keep you posted.  

Is there a device that can monitor the spark while the bike is running to see if my spark is dropping out? 

Also when an engine runs out of fuel I've never heard backfiring like that. Normally the engine starves runs rough and eventually shuts down. 

I checked the carb and rebuilt it  fuel is getting where it needs to be.

And lastly I'm thinking that the ignition system is breaking down after the bike heats up. The ignition spark is being  lowered at the plug and a fuel build up in the cylinder head eventually fires and I get the backfire ? Maybe a stator problem? Ignition coil?

I feel like it's happening when it gets hot. But what exactly is heating up causing it? I'm going to change carb either way. Going to start with that.  If it continues after that I guess I will go through alll the motions to see what is getting hot. 

So I need a little help. I got the Polaris running and cleaned the carb new plug etc. 

After about 5 to 10 minutes of running the bike started back firing intermittently. Then it shuts down.  Fires right back up same thing.  Plug is black cleaned it same thing. I rebuilt the carb but wondering if it's deeper inside. Or is it a timing issue?? Any help would be appreciated. 

Tbsks.  

I have done the same thing, cleaning it up by sand blast or sand paper. But sometimes the finish is not that nice because the heat pitts the metal. I've cleaned it and used the high heat exhaust wrap. It's a tape that you wrap around the pipe. Works great and looks really cool. 

Big shout out to Quadcrazy and its members. This bike kicks as*!! Took it up to the country to see what it can do and for a two wheel drive bike it's a beast. The bike runs and looks great. 

Thaks for the help. 

Thanks brother. I paid $200 lol the guy started at $500, the bike is in great shape and needs a little tlc to bring it back to where it belongs. But I had to drive two hours to get it.  It's a 2005. Going to start the tear down this week. Can't wait to see what's going on inside.  I'm def going to need the tech manual for stator specs engine issues etc.  

Hey Quad crazy! Back again. I recently picked up a Polaris Phoenix 200 that was sitting around in someone's yard exposed to the elements. Bike #6 I may add 😁  As is with all the bikes I buy and fix up and add to my building collection I need a little help with the tech manual for this bike and any input from someone fimilliar with this bike. I'm sure it's going to need a carb rebuild and the usual suspects from sitting around but this is a cool looking bike and would like to hear any feed back good or bad. 

Also any links to buy parts for this bike would help as it needs a new headlight assembly and some small cosmetic items.

Thanks. 

Great topic post. Just got my oldest his new quad reallly went through the motions to make sure he was well aware of the hazzards of flipping fast turns etc. Anyway he almost rolled regardless of the training and information I gave him . Straightened him right out though after he almost went over lol. Can't stress enough the importance of self awareness when riding and proper riding equipment. 

So just installed the stator/pick up coil. Bike fired right up. Can't thank the forum enough. The manual links etc!!

quadcrazy for life! 

Thanks again.  

IMG_8783.MOV

Crystal clear now. I tested the stator and the pick up coil. One side is in the paramiters (ohms) the pick up is not. I opened the coil housing for inspection and it looks good no obvious signs of broken wires burnt out etc not that it matters. Ordered the new stator assembly and the  gasket. I can't thank you enough for the input. Let you know how it works out. Meantime I completely re wrapped the harness and reinstalled it. Hoping this is the end! Thanks again.