spock58

Is your choke lever mounted on the left handlebar, under the switches? if it is the thumb-style lever I recently fixed one of those.

See the link: there's a special washer setup that gives it friction to stay in the on position when required. Parts 13/14 did the trick.

https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038e6ff870021f60a0c214/handle-switch-lever

The 2019 rzr 570 is efi so no carb involved. Need to check if the fuel pump is building pressure and go from there with the diagnoses.

I live near 100 Mile House and recommend the riding around here. Lots of guys from the lower mainland & Fraser valley head up here and ride. The Green Lake area is very popular and nothing is too difficult, perfect for all kinds of machines and abilities.

I'd suggest checking the valve clearances, a tight valve can cause issues.

It might be low on compression, have you done a test for that yet?

It's possible that the shift control motor has failed. Another thing to check is when the shift motor is removed from the engine, ensure that the gear it turns isn't stuck.

Those Honda's will flash a fault code if the system is working, the number of flashes gives you an indication of the area that failed.  All connections need to be good - there's quite a few sensors that can act up & send it into "limp" mode.

Can Am Outlander 400's had voltage regulators that failed and needed updating. There was a new design that included a different wiring harness I believe. Not sure if this would be the issue here but it should be checked into.

With that Yamaha with no spark, the stator coils need to be tested. I've seen pickup/source coils fail on them a few times.

Ran into this problem recently on another Kodiak. It needed a new needle & seat (aka float valve) but it turns out the seat part had a bad o-ring. If this isn't replaced, the leak will persist.

My guess is the "fairly new" carb is a Chinese knock off. Sometimes they work great, other times not so much. Of course it may be the only one available for bikes/quads of this vintage. If it is one of those, possibly swapping jets to the original factory ones is the remedy. Good luck, it isn't an easy problem to solve!

Another trick is to delete the reverse lockout that the Kodiak's came with. Pretty easy to remove the cable that connects to the shifter. Once this is gone, you can find the sweet spot where the light comes on a lot better.

My guess is a plugged low speed (aka pilot) jet. It's very small and needs to be removed, cleaned with a strong carb cleaning chemical & hit with compressed air. Replacing them is sometimes the best bet.

The latest and greatest battery from Yuasa is the GYZ series that is labeled made in USA. The older YTX series don't label the same anymore - can't trust that they come from here. Of course the GYZ ones are over $200 up north here and are sold out from some suppliers. Looks like buyer beware again...

The battery that the companies like Honda, Yamaha & Can Am put in their quads from the factory are usually Yuasa AGM & they hold up really well. The good ones were made in the US but I've heard that now they're not & aren't as reliable. Haven't verified this myself but would like to know before spending almost $200 for a new one.

I've used the usual gear oil that's GL5 rated in all quads, old and new without problems. Something like 75W90 is fine on everything except the Polaris front diffs or quads with a wet brake system.

I'm going to recommend a Uni foam filter #NU-8706ST instead of the K&N. It's likely that the fabric style filter (K&N) will allow fine dust to get past it - seen it before on ATV's.

I'm pretty certain that back in the day those fenders were used on another model, possibly a big bear. That spot would be where a shift lever was located. On yours, it's down by the engine. Do I win a prize if I'm right, haha!

Back when I worked for a BRP dealership, all the quads including yours came with green coolant - just the regular stuff that has been in use forever. Mix it 50/50 if it is the concentrated type sold at auto shops.

You could have a fan control module on this Honda that is failing. I'm not sure if the older ones actually had one but all the newer ones did. Something to check into...

Lots of owners add a manual switch for turning on/off the fan to bypass the auto system that can give trouble.

Well, I bit the bullet and ordered one of their secondary clutches. It is an updated style that looks perfect for this old Sportsman that is in ok shape for a 23 year old quad.

Of course, the puller I ordered from Amazon turned out to be the wrong size. Grrrr! It even shows it fitting all the years/models including this one but no bueno....

Have ordered one made by EPI so that should be correct. The clutch will cost approx. $500 cdn. but they're not that easy to come by. 

Looking at recent customer reviews, it's pretty hit or miss - they either love em or hate em. Personally, I'd prefer anything Japanese made. 

Reliable, old school Honda's are my fave followed by Yamaha. I've worked at dealerships that sell both and you can still get parts easily and the info about them is readily available.

I'm also in the market for a replacement driven clutch (Sportsman 500/1999 EBS). There's not many aftermarket options available, but have found this retailer on ebay. Looks like a decent deal since the original clutch doesn't have many parts that aren't obsolete. Curious if anyone has any feedback on this brand.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/115193389920?hash=item1ad20fa360%3Ag%3ADvEAAOSwOa1h4jxT&LH_ItemCondition=3

Just to add to the story, it is normal on 4 stroke quad engines to have the ignition running in oil. Of course when you're used to working on 2 stroke dirt bikes usually, like I was - this may come as a surprise alright!

You should never block off the overflow hose since it will flood the engine with fuel and cause more problems.

Fix it properly by cleaning/repairing the float valve system.