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MarkinAR

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MarkinAR last won the day on October 9

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About MarkinAR

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  • Location Little Rock, AR, USA

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  1. Pretty typical symptoms of worn smooth out or broken rings. Set of good rings, hone, handful of gaskets and i'd bet it's good as new.
  2. The fault in OEM tires is that they are cheap...VERY cheaply made. Usually 2 ply and soft. While they ride decent and do ok offroad, they are usually pretty short lived. I'm a fan of rip it till it drips and then work on it. So I'd personally run them bald before looking for replacements, unless a I had a need they won't work for. Mud, excessive rocks, etc, then I'd be looking at Big Horns, Mud Lites, something slightly larger and more aggressive. Tires are more opinion than fact though. My oldest boy has Nitto Mud Graps on this truck and rarely sees mud. They are arguably the worst tire made for mud, road, water, mileage. Just garbage. But they look awesome and make great noise on the road...so he runs them.
  3. This 300 is now gone on to the next owner. Ended up trading it with a couple bucks for a 2013 420. The 420 has gone through some changes too with reworking the snorkel, winch, etc. So far the 420 has been pretty solid. My other 300 is in another thread.
  4. The stator likely is insufficient. You would also need a regultor/rectifier that is capable to both regulating the voltage so as not to burn the battery and rectify it to DC. Might be more trouble than it's worth.
  5. Wait..regulator to the battery? So this one already has a battery? If so then you just need to make sure the total LED load doesn't draw too much from the regulator and you're good. 2 little pods or a light bar is fine, they don't draw much at all.
  6. Are you sure they are resistors and not diodes? Usually there's a diode on AC circuits to prevent backflow of current. The most simple answer is bury a battery somewhere on there to power the lights. I'm not sure there's an AC/DC converter on board that would power LED lights.
  7. Assuming the new stator is chinese aftermarket? You'll just have to work through the wiring with a multimeter and hope it's right because wire colors and sometimes placement are a complete crap shoot on chinese parts.
  8. The lights on older ATV's are fed directly from the stator using AC voltage whereas any other aftermarket lights and accessories (pretty much all LED these days) are DC. So yes, you would need a battery. It's fairly common for the lights to flicker or dim at idle on the older ones. All of my old Honda 3 wheelers did that and got really bright at WOT.
  9. Your guess is as good as mine on wiring. I usually scour the interwebs and look for a wiring diagram then get to color mapping everything. I have no experience on Polaris machines.
  10. I wouldn't try it either, i'd hate for 2 wires to be crossed in the plug and burn your good one. Check ebay, I bet there's a good used one out there.
  11. There is some danger in replacing parts, especially if they are chinese knock offs. Does that one have a regulator/rectifier? That would be my first suspicion, bet it's not putting out over 12V.
  12. That one had front hydraulic drums, right? Been a while since I was in to one of those. If the handle is stiff and not providing any braking I'd suspect the wheel cylinders are partially seized. If it were a squishy handle I'd suspect the master cylinder o-rings were bad.
  13. @DaleS Glad you found the forum helpful. I'm a member of several and this is by far the best to throw random questions to as there are many different machines represented here. Welcome to the forum!
  14. Ha, that response sounds like something I would say. so yes, most likely just flooding itself to death. I'm assuming by aftermarket carb you mean a chinese clone? The jets on those are NOTORIOUS for not being stamped, stamped wrong, way wrong size, just junk in general. I've used a few out of necessity and they either fire right up or you spend time tinkering to get them to 80%. Do you have the OEM? If you do use the original jets in the clone carb, that works sometimes. I've also had the clone carbs come in with the float terribly high or low, give that a check also. Your situation reminds me of a clone carb on a ATC 185s I had a while back. Couldn't get that thing to run for anything if you stabbed the throttle. This issue was the carb passages were wrong not just the jets. I ended up putting a small main jet and raising the needle a clip or two and got it to about 90%. Good enough to pop wheelies non stop because that's what 3 wheelers are for!

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