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MarkinAR last won the day on June 1

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About MarkinAR

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  • Location Little Rock, AR, USA

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  1. None on Ebay, so that sucks. Can get OEM from Partzilla but they're $300. That's a tough one if you can't find a parts bike anywhere. Even if you made the seat pan from fiberglass you'll still need hardware. Good luck on that one, wish I could help more. There weren't a ton of the mini quads made so the aftermarket isn't that huge.
  2. Lot of variables to work through here. Make sure fuel is clean and water free, carb is clean, air filter not stopped up, carb jets clean, spark plug clean, then on to transmission slip, brakes partially engaged. Happy to help, just need a bit more info to start with.
  3. I can't tell from the glare what the full VIN is but if you'll clean it up and bit and check it on https://www.faxvin.com/vin-decoder?error you should be able to work it out.
  4. Agreed. I do like the Honda 300 club on FB though, i have picked up a ton of resources there. It's an active and helpful group. But the forum here is the best I've found for an ATV flipper like me because it may be a Honda today or a Kawasaki tomorrow and there's plenty of good folks here to help.
  5. Was plugging around the site and I see that @Admin and @Ajmboy both date back to 2006. So who is the longest standing active member in the forum? nearly 14 years is a long time! and BTW, where is @Frank Angerano? Haven't seen him share any wisdom lately!
  6. Those have been out of production for a while so 2nd hand is going to be the only option. And yes, folks think they are made of gold.
  7. The Honda 300 guys always run Bronco because they are usually adjustable.
  8. Theres probably a service manual in the downloads section of this forum. Usually they just pop out and pop new ones in.
  9. You can't find them because they are not serviceable. You are supposed to replace the whole lower A arm. The issue there being that I'd bet you can't get OEM A arms anymore. Best bet is what the 400ex guys do and take some measurements and find something close. Then you have to struggle the OEM ball joints out and press in something close.
  10. Then the problem is likely in the shift drum. There is a spring and shaft in there and likely the spring broke. Here is a better explanation from a Kawasaki forum I found a while back. "If you take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki's web site, look for the gear change mechanism picture to get an idea of how the reverse system relies on the gear change drum assembly to lock in neutral before shifting into reverse. Then take a look at the picture for the gear change drum and shift forks. Look for the total assembly that is named drum-assembly-change. On the inside end of that unit is the neutral lock named "holder-neutral switch." Between the holder-neutral switch, and the drum itself is a roller, a spring and a pin. One or all of those have failed, or the holder-neutral switch has broken. The fix is relatively straightforward, and I would recommend you pick up the repair manual from http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/beartooth-kawasaki/, open the unit and identify what is broken, then make the repair. There is a downside to running with the holder-neutral switch not functioning other that it is dangerous, and that is if the broken roller, spring, or pin drop out they can lodge in the gears and that generally brings the machine to a screeching halt and snaps the transmission case that holds the mainshaft - kind of expensive."
  11. Have you unhooked the reverse cable and see if it still drops to reverse? I'm pretty sure the most likely culprit of your situation is a cable that is too tight, cable is bound, or reverse switch is sticky and not releasing fully. I'd disconnect the cable and if that resolves it work through the cable and then the switch. Is the reverse switch a twist knob on the left side like the later KLF220?
  12. Pretty much. I usually start at the battery though and work forwards.
  13. I would think so but not sure without seeing it. Normally the black wire is closer to the outside if memory serves correctly. The fact that the push button is directly wired is odd, that means some parts are taken out of the normal flow. I'd run it down with the wiring diagram and put it back to normal before doing too much digging with the no spark. It might be that the CDI is simply bypassed since there has been some wiring changes.
  14. Sounds like wiring gremlins. The starter button would only work regardless of key position if it were wired around the key. If key was off and button still worked it would likely not have any spark. I would put the original CDI back on because I am assuming you bought a $30 chinese one? Those only work about 10% of the time. My first step would be try original CDI and then move on to a wiring diagram and work through each wire. Those are really simple bikes to work on, I've had several. This is a youtube video but has the clearest wiring diagram I can find. Just pause it and screenshot.
  15. That is definitely NOT a banjo bolt in the middle of that oil line. This little 300 is just full of surprises.

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