MarkinAR

I would seriously doubt it.  Niche makes some pretty junk Chinese stuff.  I've had decent luck with their cylinders but their heads are junk, pistons are absolute garbage, etc.  It's hard to beat OEM even if they are sometimes flawed.  Or HotCams or Webb if either make a cam for that.

Nah, you will want a bit inside the connectors so take them apart, apply a dab, and put them back together.  What @Mechis alluding to is the common practice of filling every connector and boot completely full and then reconnecting.  That's a bad idea.

Living in the southern US, we treat our Hondas like boats.  I ran my Honda 300 in neck deep water with only the snorkel sticking out more than once.  Yet, I never filled the plugs full of grease, I just applied a little to keep water out so it wouldn't corrode when dry.

Permatex is fine.  For it to work correctly you have to put a dab inside of connectors, boots, etc.  Keep in mind though that Dielectric grease is not for waterproofing, it's to help keep connectors from corroding.  A little dab does wonders.

Canned Ham has a weird reputation for being unreliable but it's pretty unfounded.  the Outlander 650/850 and especially the 1000 make enough power to destroy themselves.  Without throttle control and common sense an outlander will eat itself alive.  The 650 for example weighed 680 lbs and had 72 HP...that's a recipe for fun.

@Samual Andrade, Man, it's been forever since I've been into one of those.  The last one I can remember kinda like that was a Big Bear 350 and it had two linkage adjustments on the right side of the motor.  It really sounds like you have some kind of linkage adjustment issue or something like that.  Where was the hi/lo/reverse switch on those?  Top of the tank?

My apologies for slow response times, I'm not on here a whole lot any more, just kind of in and out.

20 minutes ago, Gwbarm said:

Never seen a valve tack welded to a keeper, I do some, non text book repairs, but that's got me beat.

Bought a Kodiak a few years ago that had the rocker tip tacked bc the nut was missing but tacking a valve is a new level of haggardety. 

Yeahhhh....ALWAYS better to rebuild OEM.  I've been forced to use chinese junk a couple times due to missing carb on some junk ones I've put back together and they never run as good as OEM.  Even if you get them to run pretty decent they usually last a year or two and the cheap rubber seals fall apart.

Guessing those were 10 inch fronts, 9 inch rears?  REAL limited selection in tires, so you almost have to take what you can find.

Southern US as a whole Honda is always going to hold value better in the long haul.  Polaris is a love hate, personally I hate them because there are so many one year only quirks, harder to work on because some things just don't make sense.  Hondas have more or less looked the same since the 80s.  Two different target customers for those two machines though so really impossible to compare.

Assuming you replace the OEM carb with a new OEM carb, then you do use the spec adjustment.  If you're replacing the OEM with a cheap chinesium carb then who knows, those are a mess.  Start with spec and adjust from there and hope that it works.

Snug with a 1/4" ratchet is good enough for any side case bolts. They are easy to strip the threads on. 

1 hour ago, Txbackyardrepair said:

I know this is a very old thread but was just wondering what the torque values and sequence was to get the gear case back on I too am doing a repair and about ready to finish it up but can’t find the torque values anywhere for the 6mm and 8mm bolts

Something around 9 ft lbs most likely. I always just use a 1/4 ratchet and go snug, no more. Factory spec torque value is often too much for aging cast aluminum and it'll blow the threads out before getting to the value. 

All depends on the area it was sold in and where it is now located.  In many areas on older machines there was never a title, only certificate of origin.

All valid points, especially on Polaris.  Had a ranger 800...man what a TURD.

My only real complaint on CF is the lack of dealership support.  There are two here in central AR, with one being a Suzuki dealer and the other being a tractor dealer.  They technically can sell and service CF but it's not going to be as good as a branded dealership.  I'm glad you have a good dealer you work with, but they are few and far between.  For Can Am I have 4 branded ones within a couple hours, half a dozen Honda, several Yamaha and Suzuki dealers.  Of course, I NEVER will buy new, so it's more a question of the aftermarket for me.  Had just about one of everything, but never new.

CF Moto is fine if you take it for what it is; a lesser expensive chinese alternative to major brands.  They are nicely outfitted for the cost.  You can't compare them to Can Am, Honda, etc though as it's not apples to apples.  the CForce 600 is like 43hp whereas the old Outlander 650 was 73hp.  CF doesn't make enough power to tear itself apart like a canned ham so it'll probably last longer.  Also take into account that the average can am rider rips the snot out of them and the average CF rider does not.  Resale is also quite a bit less 2nd hand on the CF but with such a lower entry point they are an attractive option.

Green is fine.  You want to use orange if it has an aluminum head but orange is only good for a couple of years before it breaks down and becomes incredibly acidic.

Good luck soldier.  Rocky Mountain ATV has "some" parts but the aftermarket is non existent.  Those were made by Textron so maybe there are some crossover parts?

It won't be a vacuum port in the rocker cover. Vacuum only occurs between cylinder and fuel source. 

1 minute ago, davefrombc said:

Check the float level as well as all the items Mark mentioned. It could be too low.

Good call, didn't even think about float level. Surprising how many times I've had one through the shop where the float level is way off. 

Fuel starvation. If it runs better with the choke on it's not getting enough fuel. Could be petcock, fuel line, blockage in the idle circuit, idle jet is stopped up, blockage in the intake before the carb. Several possibilities, most revolve around fuel starvation. Fuel starvation can also be caused by an intake boot on the head side leaking vacuum. 

sounds like a bad ignition switch or stop/run/stop switch.  not making good continuity in the "on" position but fine in the "light on" position.

i would guess either valves are too loose or no fuel delivery.  or leaking intake boot b/w carb and head....which is still a fuel delivery issue.  but that's just a guess.

Pretty common on older 2 smokes to just block off the oiling ports and premix the fuel.  Most folks don't generally trust the older auto-oiling systems.

Sticking float or badly tuned carb that's running way too much fuel to the motor washing the cylinders down.  usually a sticking float will leak out the carb overflow though, assuming it's not blocked.

Kids in the Hall was hilarious when I was around 17. Hoping they don't ruin it. "effin good ham" was glorious.