barracuda420

Yep, until next Fall. Then a heater and Polaris front glass with wiper. My brother checked the diodes and they seem fine, also the battery held good since Saturday. My dad is an auto mechanic and has a Snap-On battery checker that tests it under load and gives a very detailed report. My brother is gonna test it with that in a day or 2. I have an extra Optima Red Top #25 car battery that I'm thinking of installing. There is plenty of room to do it. It was for the lemon 2011 Subaru Outback I traded in 3 mos. ago. I can't help but think that car cursed me with these battery problems. I gotta rig up some test cables and do more research on the cluster for now.

Doors: https://shockpros.com/product/full-half-solid-series-door-kit-set-of-2/ Its a canadian company that makes them to order. People seem to get too impatient with them and cancel orders before they're ready so their facebook rating looks bad. The owner was really helpful through email. He said he has a set ready to go so someone must have cancelled their order and I got lucky. They seem a lot better than the Seizmik canvas ones I was gonna get. Bottoms are metal, tops are canvas and removable which will be awesome for the warmer months. Also, an eBay seller accepted my $289.99 offer on the Polaris rear glass. So I just need to figure out the plow and work out the rest of the kinks.

I'm optimistic. Think I can drain/reset the meter with a 10k resistor. Polaris went Overkill on the protection here. Search for problems with this cluster...the list don"t stop!! **Doors are paid for** Finally

It was in the OP, Jim. And we think she was totally submerged for a day or so. Lots of river rock/sand in the top!!

Well, we're not out of the woods on the repair yet... My brother tried the new ignition switch. We got lights, still no instrument cluster, battery was at 7.5V and won't crank. Figure the charging system is messed up and we ended up driving it on battery power only last week. Started troubleshooting according to the service manual. Stator output is good(Thank God...it is a pain in the arse to replace!!). Regulator seems to work but maybe causing voltage spikes. Found this test on youtube and am going to try to get my brother to do it tomorrow...If I can explain to him how to use the diode test on a multimeter... I am not affiliated with these guys, but it seems like a great guide for troubleshooting the diode bridge-rectifier inside the regulator. If it's not ok to post this link, mods please delete it. Did a google search and it seems these instrument clusters are extremely sensitive to voltage spikes. This may be caused by a bad regulator(fingers crossed :)). I brought the cluster home to do some testing later this week. Trying to get some accessories ordered so I can close some windows on this PC and get my sanity back. So far, bought a cool rear bumper(pic attached), trying to get a better deal on the Polaris Glass rear window($310 MSRP) and this door kit: https://shockpros.com/product/full-half-solid-series-door-kit-set-of-2/ Once I get that stuff moving, I can close some windows and research the plow system and cluster issues easier. For some reason the Polaris site is saying the plow hydraulic lift and hydraulic angle systems aren't compatible even though they show the lift system on the same push-tube frame assembly for my Ranger?? Might have to just go to the dealer and say "Hey I need a $2000 plow system, can you cut me a little break? Like 5% or so?"

Oh yeah... Loving my baby.

Yeah. I'm just getting into the sport. But everyone I talk to says the engines are made to last. Just replace the fluids a few times and you are good to go! Will snap some pics tomorrow!

We took her out and shes a blast!! Mechanically fine. Just need to heat her up a little and change the fluids a second and third time and she'll be mechanically sound til summer for a final fluid swap before going to the regular service intervals. Got the service manual and found out the key/ignition is 4-position, not 3 like the cheap replacement I got.(Keys were missing when I got it) I think its gonna solve the electrical stuff easy. If not, I'll hard-wire some lights and tough it out til summer. Just trying to find good doors, a rear window and a plow kit within a week or 2...

I rode a Honda 50cc kids trike when I was a kid. Heard a quad was better... We'll see how it goes....

Happy New Year my friends!!! Got her up on stands and drained all her orifices. Water came from everywhere she can puke from!!! We replaced all the fluids. Starts and works mechanically but seems weak. Display doesn't work again and still no lights.(???) Don't care about those, I can rig lights for now. Gonna take her out for a burn in the AM to test the Mechanical. Then dump/replace fluids again. Possibly looking at a valve job and maybe a clutch or two.

The stuff in it is green and my brother says its $10/gal. Sweet.😊 The Polaris stuff is also pre-mixed 50/50, so its like $30 for a half gallon of actual antifreeze. 😠 Project is going slow due to the holidays but looks promising... see pic.

I have faith in it. I'm more worried about the fuel injection. Anyone know what the antifreeze is? I'm sure its a regular cheap grade stuff I can get at wally world for cheap. Polaris stuff is $30/gal!?!?

I think I'll do ok as long as the ECM is ok. Expecting a bad solenoid since it doesnt look waterproof. Everything but the ECM is replaceable at 20% of Polaris cost...ECM is $600...Dealer part only.

After a good shift last night, my brother thinks the mechanical stuff is solid but has fears of the electrical stuff. Being an electronics man, I stand polar opposite. He showed me the motor parts moving properly with the borescope and I showed him how to clean electronics. He sprayed some lube/penetrating oil/etc into the spark plug hole and turned the crank a few times...looked fluid. Also showed me the valves moving. (Note to self: Buy a borescope). I removed all the aftermarket electronics, washed and dried out all the electrical plugs I could find and then cleaned and tested the fuse box. Brake light fuse was blown. Bed lights need to be tested before re-installing....I'm sure they're filled with water. From the amount of sand in it, my brother thinks it was sunk for days...possibly stolen and ditched in a river. Have to do some research and get the proper parts in for the weekend...time to get her cranking!

As long as there's no major expensive parts involved, I may just pull the engine apart and clean it out, install new gaskets, etc. An OEM crankshaft goes for about a grand. My brother has an old(circa 2000) Sportsman 500 that he re-did the head gasket on...it cant be much different I suppose. According to the users manual, anything below the floorboards is ok in water. So diffs should be ok, but a drain and refill won't hurt. Also, my dad is an auto mechanic and happens to have a borescope(? boroscope) which should help.

Bid was $3750. $4548 with all the fees. Hoping to see low mileage when I get the power going. According to the title, it was originally titled 8/2018. There is about $800 worth of accessories on it too. Came with no key so I got a $10 chinese replacement just to get working on it. Auction link: www.copart.com/lot/49761799 I wanna pull the clutch cover off too and see how bad it is in there. I'm assuming its a belt drive. I charged the battery and its been holding at 12.2v for 2 days(not connected) so Ill see how that goes later. Would like to get a sealed AGM battery if they're available. A buddy of mine said to drain everything from the engine, pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and manually turn the crank to lube the cylinder or the walls may get scratched up and lead to major blow-by. I heard it is ok to use 5W-40 oil in it so I will run a few oil changes through it with that before switching to the pricy polaris PS-4 oil. My buddy recommended like a half dozen oil changes to get everything out. Unfortunately its at my brother's house about an hour away cause I don't have room for it here. But it is in a heated garage which helps alot being in the Poconos in December.

Hi, I'm new to ATV/UTV's and am looking for any advice that would help to repair my 2018 Ranger 500. I got it from an insurance auction and have never owned one before. It looks like it was sunk deep. Found rocks and sand in the roof, milky oil in the air filter box, water in the fuse box, etc. So far, I've cleaned the air box out, vacuumed most of the rocks and sand, checked the engine, trans and diff casings for cracks/leaks. The battery would not charge while connected so I know there is some short somewhere...probably the wet fuse box. I plan on drying out the fuse box and all connectors with a hairdryer tomorrow, check the fuses, remove/dry out the ECM and disassemble/clean the air intake. Then install the battery and see if i can get it to key on and see what kind of lights I get. Need to know what to expect with the engine/trans... Thanks.