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Posts posted by waynemags

  1. i have a 95 polaris xplorer 400. just replaced the throttle cable. has oil inject cable as well. whats the procedure for adjusting the cable. start at the carb and adjust till the carb is wide open or start at the throttle adjuster on the bars. it seems to run ok and starts fine but now as soon as i hit the throttle hard it bogs and then catches up. im unsure of procedure.

  2. my brother in law has a 91 polaris 350 liquid cooled i think its a trailboss. anyways out yesterday riding and it quit. got it home and piston skirt is destroyed. looks like a complete rebuild. can cylinder be bored or is it nicasil.? any ideas would be great. thanx. cylinder doesnt look that bad but piston is destroyrd.

  3. ive got a 98 polaris explorer 400. had about a week. starter never did work when i got it. i put in a new battery today. fully charged. hit the button and just hear a click at the solonoid.what would be the p[roblem here. this is my first quad. ive wrenched on lots of sleds and harleys. i took the skid pate off and cant even see how to get the starter off. anyone have a clue where to start?

  4. this is on my 1998 polaris explorer 400. the winch wont work. i had the switch apart today. very coroded inside. i could make it work while it was all apart, but really had to manipulate the buttons. can i hook up a toggle switch somehow? Has anyone done this or do you need the proper switch. mine is a hand held unit with the grip on it. i was thinking i could use a spring style toggle but dont know alot about the switches. thanx in advance.

  5. hey all. i just aquired a 1998 polaris explorer 400. the starter doesnt work. i tapped on the starter as i held the starter button in. it will turn over very slow. this was with my charger hooked up to battery. would my starter be screwed, or would it be the solonoid. when i hit the button i can hear the solonoid click. any ideas would be appreciated.



  6. ya oil sounds abbout right. thats about what i put in. as for the noise, i replaced the front ujoint with one with a grease nipple. turns out that evertime the nipple went around, it barely rubbed on the belly plate. i pounded the plate down a bit with a hammer and a punch, and the noise was gone. thanx everyone

  7. hey guys. new hear. i just got a 95 big bear that ran fine when i looked at it, but now when i startit, it idles real bad. it runs for a bit at a higher idle, then dies right down and then dies. fire it back up and turn the idle screw in and it idles high. will run fine for a bit then stutters and idles down almost dies then lights up again, then a second later, dies. ive cleaned the carb the best i can . blew out the passages and tried again. still does the same . the air screw was bottomed right down. i opened it to about 2 turns out. seemed to bring the idle back up, then stuters and back down till almost dead, then dies. any suggestions?

  8. i just want to say hi first off. i just got burned bad on a quad. 95 yammy bigbear 4x4. anyways, i get home and get stuck. front wheels dont spin. first i thought that the cv joints are gone. find out after tearing front end apart that the gears inside the diff will turn when you turn the yolk by hand. as soon as you put the splined shaft of the cv joint into the diff, and turn the yolk going into the diff, the cv's on both side wont turn when you hold them with your hand. im baffled as to whats wrong. i pulled the diff apart and took out the big gear and disassembled that gear. in side that gear there are three rings that have like a checkerd pattern on them. the outer one looks to have the pattern worn off. are these some kind of clutch plates or pressure plates that lock up the cv's and make them turn? if you spin the yolk that goes into the front diff and look into where the cv's go, you can see the spline turn. as soon as the splines on the cv shaft go in the spline inside3 the diff stop turning when turning tha yolk by hand. please help. i payed 1500 for this thing and after having it for 2 hrs, the guy tells me go to hell.

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