Quantcast
Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags ' carb'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Community Discussion
    • General ATV Discussion
    • General Talk - Anything Goes!
    • New Members Area!
    • Where To Ride Your ATV
    • ATV Picture and Video Sharing
    • ATV Racing & ATV Events
    • ATV & Off Road Modifications
    • ATV Tires and Rims
    • This vs. That ATV & Off Road Comparisons
    • ATV Trailers, Haulers, and Attachments
    • Hunting, Camping, & Outdoors Forum
    • ATV Laws, Legal Issues, and Policing
  • Regional ATV & Off Road Forums
    • Northeast ATV & Off Road Forum
    • Midwest ATV & Off Road Forum
    • South ATV & Off Road Forum
    • West ATV & Off Road Forum
    • Other Region ATV & Off Road Forum
  • ATV Manufacturer Specific
    • ATV Forums By Brand
  • UTV Side x Side Manufacturer Specific
    • UTV & Side by Side Forums By Brand
  • Other Powersports, Offroad, and All Terrain Vehicles
    • Kids ATVs and Youth Off-Road
    • ATC 3-Wheeler Forum
    • Dirt Bike Forum
    • 4X4 Trucks and Jeeps
    • Water, Snow & Other Powersports
  • QUADCRAZY Classifieds
    • ATV For Sale? Post it here.
    • Stolen ATVs
  • QUADCRAZY Supporters
    • ATV Links & Partners
  • ATV News, Magazine Articles, Product Reviews
    • ATV News, Articles & Press Releases
    • New ATV Products, Reviews & Tests
    • Manufacturer & Aftermarket Promos
  • QUADCRAZY Announcements & Support
    • Announcements/Support
    • Website How To & Feedback
  • Yamaha Grizzly Owners's Topics
  • New York ATV Riders's Group Forum
  • Michigan ATV Club - St Helen, Mio, West Branch, Rose City's Lets ride Michigan trails this season!
  • Michigan ATV Club - St Helen, Mio, West Branch, Rose City's Up coming season
  • Kawasaki Bayou 220 Restoration and Repairs's Topics
  • Ride Red's Videos
  • Ride Red's Ride Red Forum
  • NYC 2 Poconos/ Scotrun ATV Riders's ATV Upgrades
  • NYC 2 Poconos/ Scotrun ATV Riders's Quads
  • Mechanics Club's Topics

Categories

  • ATV News and Articles
  • ATV New Products & Reviews
  • ATV Racing & Events
  • ATV Ride Reports

Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • ATV Racing Events
  • ATV Poker Runs and Riding Events
  • ATV Swap Meets
  • Other ATV & Off Road Events

Categories

  • ATV Repair Manuals
    • Arctic Cat ATV
    • Can-Am BRP ATV
    • Cannondale ATV
    • CFMOTO ATV
    • Hisun ATV
    • Honda ATV
    • Kawasaki ATV
    • Kazuma ATV
    • Kymco ATV
    • Polaris ATV
    • Suzuki ATV
    • Textron Off Road ATV
    • Yamaha ATV
    • Other ATV
  • ATV Owner Manuals
    • Arctic Cat ATV
    • Can-Am BRP ATV
    • Cannondale ATV
    • CFMOTO ATV
    • Hisun ATV
    • Honda ATV
    • Kawasaki ATV
    • Kazuma ATV
    • Kymco ATV
    • Polaris ATV
    • Suzuki ATV
    • Textron Off Road ATV
    • Yamaha ATV
    • Other ATV
  • UTV Side by Side Repair Manuals
    • Arctic Cat UTV
    • Can-Am BRP UTV
    • Hisun UTV
    • Honda UTV
    • Joyner UTV
    • John Deer UTV
    • Kawasaki UTV
    • Polaris UTV
    • Textron Off Road UTV
    • Yamaha UTV
    • Other Brands UTV
  • UTV Side by Side Owner Manuals
    • Arctic Cat UTV
    • Textron Off Road UTV
    • Can-Am BRP UTV
    • Hisun UTV
    • Honda UTV
    • Joyner UTV
    • John Deer UTV
    • Kawasaki UTV
    • Polaris UTV
    • Yamaha UTV
    • Other Brands UTV
  • Other Files

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Location

miles from

About Me


My Garage

Found 86 results

  1. Hello everyone I am new to this forum. I am working on a Quadmaster for a friend. The only thing I have left to replace is the rubber diaphragm in the carb. I think I have cross referenced it to some other models that actually offer the rubber part only but I am not sure. The rubber part is screwed on on this slide and not pressed on. Has anyone replaced just the rubber on this model? I have seen a website that offers aftermarket rubbers but they all look much thicker than the one that came on this bike. General Mikuni carb question. I cannot find solid manual information for this year and model online. Everything that I read says that it has a Mikuni BST34 Carb. However all I find is BS34 and all of these appear to have a round slide. This carb has a flat slide. All the Mikuni flat slide carbs that I find online do not look like this carb. I would think that I should be able to order a rubber diaphragm for the specific carb regardless of what it came in... Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  2. I recently removed the carb from my buddy's 2004 500 TBX because it was leaking gas out of the overflow. My research led me to believe that the problem was probably due to debris clogging the needle jet and/or main jet. Once I got the carb disassembled I noticed that whoever attempted to fix the problem before me pinched the carb bowl o-ring crushing one corner of it. I couldn't believe how much crud I found in the carb. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner then compressed air. I removed all the jets, but didn't touch the low speed fuel screw or idle adjustment knob even though the manual recommended removing them, because I didn't want to affect the carb settings. Simply unscrewing jets and re-screwing them in shouldn't have affected the carb's settings. I reassembled and reinstalled the carb. I also added an inline fuel filter (can't believe there are 500cc machines out there without fuel filters!!!) to hopefully prevent more debris from entering the carb. The good news is; the fuel leak from the bottom of the carb is gone. The bad news is; now the idle is intermittent. The quad won't idle at all when cold, then once it warms up, it will idle for a while then slowly begin to sputter until it stalls. I tried adjusting the idle up with the adjustment knob on the carb, but that seemed to have no effect until, very suddenly, the idle would climb very high (too high). I should mention that I rode the quad around my property for 15 minutes and it rides great. The only problem is at idle. There is no bogging or any fuel delivery / fuel mixture issues when riding. I have considered that by adding an inline fuel filter to a gravity feed system, I've introduced too much resistance, although the filter is one of the least resistance filters I've ever seen. Before I connected it to the carb, I turned the fuel knob to the "on" position and gas flowed out of the filter very quickly, so I doubt that is the problem. Any thoughts? Anyways, the carb sealed, even with the mangled bowl o-ring, but my buddy wanted me to order another one anyways. It will be here Monday. At that time I'm going to remove the carb again and replace the o-ring. I looked at the service manual, Section 11 (Troubleshooting) for "poor idle". Since I just serviced the carb, I'm going to start my examination there. According to the service manual there are 3 areas of the carb that could cause a poor idle. They are: 1. Clogged jets. I will check those again when I'm replacing the o-ring. 2. Float Out of Adjustment - Section 4 of the service manual says, "NOTE: Check float arm height by placing the carburetor on its side w/float contacting the needle; then measure with a caliper the height when the float arm is in contact with the needle valve. Float arm height should be 17 mm (0.7 in.)." Could someone explain exactly where I'm supposed to be measuring from and to, preferably with a picture? Is it from the top of the float to the carb body? I'm not sure exactly where this 0.7" dimension should be measured. Another issue, if the float height is out of spec, nowhere in the manual does it tell you how to adjust the float height. In section 11 (Troubleshooting), it tells you to adjust the float height, but nowhere tells you HOW to adjust float height. Can someone tell me how to adjust the float height? 3. Improper Pilot Screw (Low Speed Fuel Screw) Setting - Again, Section 4 of the manual (Carbs) says, "NOTE: Turn the low speed fuel screw clockwise until it is lightly seated; then turn it counterclockwise the recommended number of turns as an initial setting." That's great and all, but does anyone know what the recommended number of turns are? Again, the quad idled fine before I took off the carb. Does anyone have any thoughts other than what I have come up with? The main thing I am looking for here is how to measure the float height (0.7"), how to adjust the float height and the initial number of counterclockwise turns of the low speed fuel screw. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Granger
  3. I just bought a 2001 big bear 400 4x4 w/ a snowblade and winch. Seems like a great deal even if its a little rough. I am not worried about the pretty only the mechanical for now. I bought it knowing it hasnt ran in about 8 months. The previous owner put a rebuild kit in the carb and believe he didnt get the clip in the right position on the needle(perhaps wrong term). Anyhow does anyone know where the clip belongs or any other settings on it I can double check? He said it ran but was doggy as hell if doing anything other than sitting at idle. Ran ok before the carb rebuild, 1600 miles on her. Have to pick up a battery too. Hmm..and that damn nut on the steering stem is loose causing bar slop. Any info I ought to have as a new big bear owner is appreciated
  4. I am going to help a buddy with his 2004 Arctic Cat 500 TBX next week. I don't own a ATV, but am a pretty good mechanic and have been working on my own dirt bikes, road bikes, cars, trucks and small engine equipment (mowers, tractors, leaf blowers, chain saws, etc.) my whole life. I haven't brought anything to a shop for anything but tires in about 20 years. I am very confident I can do the job. The problem is, when at idle, gas flows out of the overflow at the bottom of the carb. From my research on the internet, I know the cause is probably either; 1. (less likely) mis-adjusted float height (should be adjusted to 17mm). or 2. (more likely) debris between the needle valve and the seat. My plan is to remove the carb, dissassemble, check the float height and give it a thorough cleaning. My problem is my buddy lives 100 miles from me and is just going to trailer the quad to my house the day I'm going to work on it and wait while I fix it. So, I'm not going to get a chance to examine the quad before I dig in. I know, from my research that the '04 500 TBX does not have a fuel filter and it is a good idea to have one. Problem is, without being able to look at the quad ahead of time, I have no idea what size the fuel line is. The closest parts store is quite a distance from me, so I'd like to have all of the parts before he arrives. My specific questions are: 1. When disassembling and reassembling the '04 500 TBX carb, do I need any new gaskets or O-rings or can I re-use what is on there? 2. Since the '04 500 TBX does not come with a fuel filter, could someone please give me a SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATION (i.e., Fram F5432, Purolator Z657, etc.) of a fuel filter that I can simply splice in the middle of the existing fuel line? Keep in mind, I am asking these questions because I will not actually get to see the quad until it is time to work on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
  5. Hey all! I am new on here and searched around to see if I could find a solution to my issue. There were a few threads that beat around the bush but I didn't find one that nailed my problem. So here it is (hopefully not again)! I bought a little 250 for my wife and we took it out right after that and it ran great. Came back to the shop, parked it for about a week or two with a few starts in between, and then went out over the weekend and it started cutting out and backfiring into the carb. It seems like the choke was sticking cause it was "loading up" and you'd have to give it a bunch of gas to get it running again. It won't idle while in gear, or in neutral for that matter. It runs for a few seconds and then will backfire and die. There was a bit of smoke that would come out the top of the carb as well. When I'd have it running and in any gear, I'd take it up to about 3-4000 rpms and you could hear it cutting out a bit. No pattern to it, just random cutting out. However, when going through the gears at full throttle it ran fine. I have went through the carb and cleaned up everything as best as possible. There were some o-rings that could have been replaced but didn't have any. I put it back together without the new ones but they are on order. There was one thing of curious note...on the diaphragm on the top of the carb, there is/should be a brass cylinder on the outside of the diaphragm. It is now missing. Will that make the difference? I always thought it was for idle purposes. I know its supposed to be there cause I have saw them plenty on my R6 carbs. (nearly robbed one out of my spare set of carbs) Overall, I'd like some input on why this is happening and what I can do to fix it. Are there any rebuild kits out there worth a crap? Let me know...and sorry for being so long winded!
  6. I was going to buy a used carb that has been jetted for a certain exhaust. Since the carbs were jetted can I use them on a quad with a stock exhaust. I was planning on no airbox lid with stock exhaust until I get enough money to buy a full exhaust system.
  7. First of all I would like to thank you everyone in advance for there help. I picked up a 2004 Raptor 350 for $500. There is less then 50 hours on this machine. Its been sitting for most of its life. Its in pretty decent condition. I pulled the carb and cleaned it out. It was full of green corrosion. While I was doing this I notice that the throttle plate was sticking. I looked to see if parts were available separately and nope they were not. I found a 2006 raptor 350 carb on ebay for $65. I received it today and it was even more corroded then the original. So I took all the bowl internals and swapped them over to the 06 carb. I cleaned everything really good. I slapped it on the bike and it runs but its back firing when you give it gas, doesn't want to idle with no choke. I have to apply the choke perhaps 20~30% to keep it at an high idle so it won't die. My question is. Is the 06 carb compatible with 04? They look identical. My next move is to order a rebuild kit. Do I order one for 06 now? Are 04 through 08 the same?
  8. I am trying to locate 1994 Suzuki LT-F250 Quad Runner Carb Slider Diaphragm I only need the Diaphragm not the slider. I have tried to find a part number for the Diaphragm but have failed to find one. I have found a Diaphragm on EBay but the model years don't match. I sure would appreciate any help anyone can provide.
  9. Hi Folks, This is my first post... I have a 2004 Outlander Max XT that stalls out above 900 feet (yes, 900, not 9,000'). It progressively gets worst the higher you go. I have consistently returned to the same location / elevation and it always "acts up" above 900' and gets worst up to 1,900'. I have cleaned the carb and replaced most all seals & jets with a rebuild kit. When it happens, I am completely on my own. It will not start again without a 1/2 hour+ wait unless... I can sometimes manage to temporarily get it running in short (15 second - 2 minute) bursts by: 1. Draining the carb 2. Waiting a few minutes 2. Spraying starter fluid into the carb 3. Starting it, then slamming it into gear 4. Going like heck (wide-open throttle) 5. If it starts, it will then give me a short burst until it succumbs/stalls again 6. Repeat until I drop below 800-900', then it runs fine I was thinking of putting in after-market jets, but I would rarely go above 2,000' around here and possibly up to maybe 5,500' in other parts of the state (Alaska). So I am here at this forum looking for a few suggestions. FYI - I live at sea-level or there-abouts and there are no dealers anywhere close. Thanks for your time.
  10. Carb issues help? I just rebuilt the carb on my '04 Magnum 330. It's a Mikuni 34mm CV carb. I got the rebuild kit from my local Polaris dealer. I also got 8' of 1/4" fuel line and a new in-line filter. I drained/cleaned the fuel tank and the fuel is now for the lawn mower. All of the fuel lines were replaced from the tank to the petcock, to the fuel pump, and to the carb. I even replaced the vacuum line from the carb to the fuel pump. New in-line filters installed. Fresh fuel in the tank. The carb kit had replacement parts for everything except the pilot screw/needle. I checked the float settings when I rebuilt it. I clipped the needle at 3 of 5, just like when I tore it down (factory setting). I cleaned the pilot screw, and reinstalled to two turns out from bottom. I was able to get it started w/o any problems, and it idles perfect (got lucky). But I haven't adjusted the pilot screw. Now my problem. I start up, closed the choke, and idles fine. BUT, if I try to give it gas it starts to stumble. I tried to give it wide open throttle, and it died. I can restart it and it runs fine at idle. I haven't tried driving it yet since I still have the front end tore apart. Any thoughts? I can get to the needle easy enough, but it's clipped at the same setting as I tore it apart at, and where it's been running fine since I bought it. Thanks in advance, Wayne St Louis, MO
  11. Several months ago I repaired the carb to my sons 98 300 2x4... My mechanic cleaned the carb and replaced a needle seat... $6 part... My question... Is there anyway to prime the darn thing? The high idle gas setting does not do a good job priming the carb for cold starting... If you let the thing sit for a month or so it is the coldest natured engine I have ever owned... Ever... I understand that the newer carbed models came with a primer bulb... Is there a fix for this issue other than ponying up for a newer carb??? BTW, I filled up the tank with gas and utilized ethanol treatment... Many thanks for any replies...
  12. Hello Everyone and thank you in advance for any advice you can provide. Also this is my first post. I have read some other posts regarding backfiring of this type of quad, but my issue adds another layer of complexity. My quad which I purchased from a gentleman who couldn't figure this issue out thought he had it licked, as well as I did. He had replaced the carb with a brand new one and still had the same issue. Here is the issue: Initially the quad ran great, didn't have any backfiring issues IF the ignition switch was turned all the way to the second click which is the lights on position. It would start and run fine. However, if the quad was run on the first ignition click - lights off, it would backfire and not run. So the solution to the problem was simply to run the quad with the lights on. Now, even if it is run with the lights on it backfires and sputters. It will not accept any throttle. It will backfire and surge if throttle is applied. Thank you for any advice.
  13. every time i let this bike sit for awhile the bike will start but wont rev. the only thing that has worked is taking it to the shop and having it professionally cleaned out with ultrasonic cleaner 150.00 : ( really?? is there no other way to keep this thing running more dependable??
  14. Hi again I am reassembling the bike after a few days when life got in my way. My notes show that the bottom carb tube is an overflow. But I am not sure that my notes are correct. I have 3 tube connections on the carb: top on is an air breather from the air inlet system. the middle tube is for the gas supply from the tank the bottom one I believei s an overflow tube. Is this correct. I attach a pic for clarity. Regards Richard
  15. Guess I spoke to soon. Bragged on another thread about how well this bike ran. And it DID. But then I noticed gas leaking from the overflow tube on the carb. Bike still ran great though. Anyway figuring the floats were stuck I removed the carb checked the floats and put back together. Then it wouldn't start. Turn over but no go. But it didn't leak. When I finally got to start it ran like crap. So took carb back off, re checked floats and porting as best as I could. Re-installed carb and now not only does it run like crap but its leaking fuel from over flow tube even worse. I've ordered a new carb kit for it. I'm not real well versed in carberation so I'm trying to proceed carefully. Any tips tricks or general input is welcome. Thanks, Mike
  16. My 2007 arcti cat 400 starting pouring fuel out the overfow when running,any ideas?
  17. I bought a 1997 polaris 425 6x6 and the guy told me the carb was bad....so I bought a new one..easy to install but wont run good..Where the breather or filter hooks to the back of the card there is a black I call snorkel...well if i sqeeze it closed a little bit and rev it up it seems to run 90 % better but as soon as i let go so its gettn all there air it pops and spits..cant even drive it....so i put a tie rap around it so it says closed some and runs ok....but then if I put it n reverse and back up it back fires....ca1n anyone help me out here? im stupid when it comes to wheelers... I dont see any adjustment screws for your fuel or air...why isnt there any..Help
  18. I picked up a 95 big bear 4x4 and took the rig to have the carb rebuilt. The mechanic broke the "rod"? that holds the two linkages together in the carb housing. It appears to be plastic. Has anyone experienced this? What can you do to fix it? Thx
  19. Hi everyone, new here and was hoping someone can help me out, been searching hi and low for a used carb (new one is 600 bucks) for my 1994 kodiak 400 for some time now but can't find one. Was hoping someone could give me a lead on one or wondering if a 2001 kodiak 400 carb would work??
  20. well my 05 king quad 700 has been running good on a honda rancher 350 carb, except it wont open up all the way, it has enough power to sling mud bout 50 feet, but, its just choking down, the intake through that carb is too small, jets too small, it has not overheated, it has not made the exhaust glow, hasnt missed a lick, just wont get over 42mph, it has plenty of lowend power, just like i said, not enough air or fuel to make it have full power, i found a carb off of a 76 ford 300 6cyl, it is a large bore 1 barrel, it is capable of running a 4.9l engine, going to rebuild it, cut the square flange off the bottom, while its apart i will weld a round bottom collar to attach it to the original throttle body mounting boot, hopefully by tues or wed it will be in place of the honda carb and the king quad will be pulling the front end off the ground, will post updates as available
  21. i finally done the smart thing and done away with the throttle body on my 05 700 king quad. this is just the temporary parts that i used to make sure it would work, my carb is way too small for this engine, ------------------------------------------------------- parts needed. carb. big enough to run a 700, the one i am testing with is off my 06 honda rancher 4x4 350 cc, using 2 pieces of 1 1/2 pvc 2 inches long each. 1 1/2 pvc 90 fuel tank to mount in place of the original airbox ------------------------------------ remove the old throttle body, and airbox. i am also removing the original fuel tank, gonna mount full size deep cycle battery in place of the original fuel tank remove the intake boot off the engine. bevel one end of a piece of pvc. use a good sharp knife and trim the inside of the intake boot just enough to get the pvc at least an inch deep, tighten clamp use the other piece of pvc to attach the carb to, got lucky and was able to use the throttle cable on the carb, mount new airbox with filter to other end of carb. im using an old shop vac hose hooked onto the airbox intake. route this hose to the front end of 4wheeler. attach to piece of pvc pointed straight up bout 2foot above front rack, attach 2 90 elbows at the top for a turn down mount choke cable anywhere you want it. im putting mine on the handle bars im mounting the fuel tank off the honda in place of the original airbox. trust me this does work. the 4wheeler still fires and runs good even with too small of a carb. i dont even have everything mounted permanent yet , as of right now the whole new intake is held together with electrical tape, just wanted to make sure it would work before i spent the time to do it right, tomorrow i will post update and try to upload pics of the completed job
  22. I have a 2003 bayou 250. I rebuilt carb because its sat for a few years. Didn't run before rebuild. Now it starts up but runs terrible. Idles extremely high, which I can adjust. But engine makes a clicking noise, and the rpms drop and bike dies... there is hesitation on acceleration with popping and bogging. What could be causing this? What would be stock setting for air/fuel mixture screw that is on bottom of carb, and setting for idle screw on side of carb? Really confused as what clicking would be. Any help would be great. Thanks
  23. Over the winter I had a mouse build a nest in the air box of my 2002 warrior. I took my carburator apart and cleaned it. I got it running again but there are defiantly still some issues. I have tried cleaning it a couple of time now. When I gas it, it runs fine, but then when I let off the gas it continues to run like I never took my thumb off the gas. After a few seconds it returns to its normal idle. Also when I gas it will pop randomly. It wont cut out completely, but it pops like there is air escaping or something. Finally the resting idle is not consistant at all. It revs up and down. It doest do this drastically, but there is a noticeable variance in the idle. Any ideas or advice on how I can fix this would be greatly appreciate. Thanks a lot for helping me out.
  24. I bought a well used 94 LTF 250. When I started to repair and service it, 1 of the legs in the carb that hold the float had been JB welded. I could not find a body for a Mikuni BST 31 SS anywhere. I buddy had a mikuni round slide, I believe a VM series. It fit so I installed it with a small electric fuel pump. Did Suzuki switch to fuel pumps in 90 because of a lower tank design? It started instantly with no choke. To rich? Runs to rich everywhere but wide open. I lowered needle but still rich. Any ideas? Can the needle jet be changed? How can I identify what Mikuni I have? Should I give up and keep trying to find a BST carb? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys
  25. I have a 95 kodiak 400 it starts and runs at idle and top end but in the mid-range it spits and backfires. I have put a rebuild kit in it and also the diaphram on the side to no avail.Still does the same thing. Am looking for a carb but cant find one. Did find one from a 350 warrior but not sure if it will fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

×
×
  • Create New...