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Found 31 results

  1. I have a 2000 yamaha grizzly 600. I unplugged my Grizz from the battery tender yesterday and it started right up. left it idle while i put on my Carharts to plow snow. It shut down as it usually does when i have the choke on to start. I tried to restart it and all I could get was a clicking sound from the back of the grizz above the glove compartment where all the electrical boxes are located. I checked the battery and it is fine, the lights are bright for the nuetral and 4x4 but the headlights are half bright and there is no power to my warn winch. Any ideas as to if it is one of the electrical switches in the rear not letting power pass by?
  2. So i got a Warrior, and all the electrical stuff if undernearth by the tires and when they get wet, it has a hard time starting....is there anything i could do about it, maybe move them or buy something to keep them dry? Thanks!
  3. I have a kfx450r which keeps frying batteries. I have replaced the battery 3 times already and they will work for 2-3 hours then the next day i go to use the atv i get a FAST Ckick noise in the nose of the atv. Seems like might be a shorted Voltage Regulator or a bad Stator..? Is there an test I can do or does anyone have an electronic manual to trouble shoot this.? This Quad only has like 20 hours on it max....Strangestuff ATV has ProCircuit Exhaust, Aftermarket Computer.
  4. i have a 93 trx 300 and have lost my electric start,my neutral light flickers very dim at idle and goes completely out when revved up, as does my reverse light i was wondering if anyone might have an idea what the problem could be.
  5. Ok here goes.... I was riding and stalled out and my raptor wouldn't start up. I found the battery cable had broken off the terminal. I held it on to start it and get it back to the house. I put the battery cable back together and it wouldnt start. I did some troubleshooting and the battery is good, I can force the starter to turn over but it wont start because of the electic circuit not being right. I can not even get the neutral light when it is in neutral. I checked the 2 fuses on the starter block. Any suggestions?
  6. Found this courtesy of ATVFrontier dot com, if it helps someone great if not sorry. K-TECH NEWS Vol #18 Issue 1 2005 KVF750 Connector Corrosion Creates Electrical Havoc Do you have a KVF750 exhibiting strange electrical problems? There have been reports of some very strange electrical symptoms that can be difficult to diagnose. Typical symptoms are listed below in the order from most common to the least common: 1. Fan does not activate and the engine overheats 2. Meter stays on and the battery goes dead 3. Fuse keeps blowing 4. Engine stalls when 4wd is engaged and does not restart, but it restarts in 2wd. 5. Engine starts without ignition key (when just green button is pressed). 6. Check belt light is flashing. The cause for these symptoms can be often traced to corrosion forming inside one of the two white plastic 1"x1-1/4"x3/8" joint (BUS) connectors that are taped to the main wiring harness. There is one under the front fender between the front shock towers and another one under the rear fender near the fuel tank. So far the problem has ocurred only on the rear connector. More specifically, the rear connector/harness is attached to the tube frame just to the right side of igniter/control unit area. If you pry open the cap of the connector, you may find greenish corrosion (electrolysis) formed inside between the bare metal contacts. The electrolysis occurs within the connector because there are positive and negative wire terminals joined together without any barrier to seperate them. On the rear connector the white wires are always on (+), the brown wires are ignition on (+) and the black/yellow wires are ground (-). If your customers ride in deep water or somehow cause water intrusion into this connector, a special prevention is required because the problem could repeat. After cleaning up the corrosion or the main harness is replaced (because the connector itself is not available seperate), some dialectric grease should be applied inside the connecter and it should be well sealed to prevent further moisture intrusion. The ultimate repair is to remove all of the black/yellow ground wires, solder them together and seal them seperately from the connector.

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