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Found 18 results

  1. I recently picked up a king quad 700 that doesn't run in the hopes of getting it running by spring. It had been previously taken apart some and a few pieces are missing in the engine, but the frame is complete and in good condition. The motor will need a piston, rings, cylinder, cams, and a few misc parts that are missing. Also the cases will need to be split to remove the pieces of piston that are in the crankcase. The piston blew up at high rpm and did a number on the cylinder so I'm trying to find out if it would be worth rebuilding this motor it buying another engine to swap in. There may be more damage to this engine that I can see so I was wondering how bad the insides of it could be considering it destroyed the piston. I have found a motor for 1200 plus 200 shipping, the only problem is I don't have that much now and I would have to save up a while before being able to afford it. Any suggestions appreciated.
  2. Looking for someone reasonable ,HONEST and experienced to rebuild a 2002 Yamaha big bear 400 2 wd
  3. Ok everyone, I've been rebuilding the top end of my vinson 500 and here is my problem. After replacing all the gaskets and getting my timing set I was all set to place the head on when I realized I had left one of the two small sleeves that position the cylinder head on the base. To go back and put it in would require another complete tear down. This is one of those round cylindrical tubes that the jug sits on. All bolts are in along with Indian head gasket shellac on both sides of the gasket, my question is what might it hurt if I don't put it back in? Honestly I can't see where it will matter and setting the timing on this machine is a real bitch. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I have a 1996 suzuki king quad lt-f4wdx 280cc and am considering haveing it rebuilt as a seal is bad and cannot be replaced w/o tearing the motor apart! I need to know the average price range to do this!
  5. Hello all. Just a quick question, I am rebuilding the clutch on my 2001 quad runner 250 4x4. What do I tighten the 4 bolts in the clutch pack (the ones that go thru the springs) to? I assume they are torqued to a spec?
  6. Hey folks, Im a newbie in them har parts. I gave a friend a junker side by side fridge and he gave me an old junker 89 Yamaha Moto 4. Wasn't a swap, it just worked out that way. I love to tinker, and it has low range and reverse so I thot would make a tractor out of it. I farm; too old to jump and stuff! But it don't run (motors not seized though) So like some people who curl up with a good book thought I would curl up with a good tinker LOL. I am Mario James, hailing from a little rock south of the Florida panhandle called JAMAICA. I've looked at the stickies and I don't see an manual for my quad. I don't know if any one on this forum might point me in the direction of a service manual for a 1989 Yamaha Moto4 250 cc ATV? Because I intend to farm with it, I wonder if a simple head - sleeve piston change might bump up the displacement to 300cc, or even 350? (YFM motor) Also could anybody tell me if anyone has done a brake conversion to hydraulics at both ends...instead of the cable? (cables don't last long in every day dirt an mud). Also wanna put the clutch under my left hand where it belongs, and do away with the centrifugal setup. Thanks and cheers to everyone!
  7. Rebuilding the rear axles on 97 Polaris sportsman 500 4x4. The axles are the u-joint type with the spline joint. Have replaced bearings. When I replace the rubber boots on the spline joint, what should I do as far as re-greasing the spline joint? I have the repair manual, but it says to take them to the dealer to be repaired.
  8. Just rebuilt the top end on my 08 big bear 400. Piston rings wristpin gaskets. Got it back together it runs no back firing or popping but it takes a lil long to idle down and every now and then it kinda burps or misses for a split second and not often either I guess and then recovers just fine. Could the timing be off a tooth and cause this or would it be backfiring and popping a lot? Any other ideas?
  9. I recently removed the carb from my buddy's 2004 500 TBX because it was leaking gas out of the overflow. My research led me to believe that the problem was probably due to debris clogging the needle jet and/or main jet. Once I got the carb disassembled I noticed that whoever attempted to fix the problem before me pinched the carb bowl o-ring crushing one corner of it. I couldn't believe how much crud I found in the carb. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner then compressed air. I removed all the jets, but didn't touch the low speed fuel screw or idle adjustment knob even though the manual recommended removing them, because I didn't want to affect the carb settings. Simply unscrewing jets and re-screwing them in shouldn't have affected the carb's settings. I reassembled and reinstalled the carb. I also added an inline fuel filter (can't believe there are 500cc machines out there without fuel filters!!!) to hopefully prevent more debris from entering the carb. The good news is; the fuel leak from the bottom of the carb is gone. The bad news is; now the idle is intermittent. The quad won't idle at all when cold, then once it warms up, it will idle for a while then slowly begin to sputter until it stalls. I tried adjusting the idle up with the adjustment knob on the carb, but that seemed to have no effect until, very suddenly, the idle would climb very high (too high). I should mention that I rode the quad around my property for 15 minutes and it rides great. The only problem is at idle. There is no bogging or any fuel delivery / fuel mixture issues when riding. I have considered that by adding an inline fuel filter to a gravity feed system, I've introduced too much resistance, although the filter is one of the least resistance filters I've ever seen. Before I connected it to the carb, I turned the fuel knob to the "on" position and gas flowed out of the filter very quickly, so I doubt that is the problem. Any thoughts? Anyways, the carb sealed, even with the mangled bowl o-ring, but my buddy wanted me to order another one anyways. It will be here Monday. At that time I'm going to remove the carb again and replace the o-ring. I looked at the service manual, Section 11 (Troubleshooting) for "poor idle". Since I just serviced the carb, I'm going to start my examination there. According to the service manual there are 3 areas of the carb that could cause a poor idle. They are: 1. Clogged jets. I will check those again when I'm replacing the o-ring. 2. Float Out of Adjustment - Section 4 of the service manual says, "NOTE: Check float arm height by placing the carburetor on its side w/float contacting the needle; then measure with a caliper the height when the float arm is in contact with the needle valve. Float arm height should be 17 mm (0.7 in.)." Could someone explain exactly where I'm supposed to be measuring from and to, preferably with a picture? Is it from the top of the float to the carb body? I'm not sure exactly where this 0.7" dimension should be measured. Another issue, if the float height is out of spec, nowhere in the manual does it tell you how to adjust the float height. In section 11 (Troubleshooting), it tells you to adjust the float height, but nowhere tells you HOW to adjust float height. Can someone tell me how to adjust the float height? 3. Improper Pilot Screw (Low Speed Fuel Screw) Setting - Again, Section 4 of the manual (Carbs) says, "NOTE: Turn the low speed fuel screw clockwise until it is lightly seated; then turn it counterclockwise the recommended number of turns as an initial setting." That's great and all, but does anyone know what the recommended number of turns are? Again, the quad idled fine before I took off the carb. Does anyone have any thoughts other than what I have come up with? The main thing I am looking for here is how to measure the float height (0.7"), how to adjust the float height and the initial number of counterclockwise turns of the low speed fuel screw. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Granger
  10. I just rebuilt my carb, and now it will start with the choke pulled, but dies shortly, and dies immediately if the choke is released. Anybody know what I did wrong?lol
  11. just got my motor back together and its still smoking not as bad as before but smoking pretty good still, the motor had a bad valve and one of the head bolt seals where bad and was dumping oil into cylinder so there's a lot of oil in the tailpipe cause the guy I bought it from ran it around his farm and didn't care about the smoke just bought a new plug when it fouled, could the smoke im seeing just be it burning off what's in the pipe? Bike doesn't smoke to bad when idling just when giving it gas? bike has new rings, new valves, new top end seals, new aftermarket trx carb bout an hour break in idling in my yard, the head shop said one valve seat was in spec but barely could that be the problem? any suggestions are greatly appreciated
  12. I have a 87 LT250R (basket case motor)that I am looking to get rebuilt.I live in Upstate New York and am looking for someone who has good knowledge of LT250R motors and working on them.If anyone has any info please let me know.Thanks
  13. Newbee here and got a few questions for ya! I'm working on honda 70 and looking to find some aftermarket parts for it without going to local honda shop and spending a fortune. lol I race karts here in NC and going to make a pit bike to ride around on and just wanting to hop it up a little.Just wandering if anyone knows where I could find a aftermarket cam with more grunt than a stock cam? My plans so far is to do some port'n and polishing on the head, boring out the cylinder and put'n in a little bigger piston. Can I get a piston and rings lets say .020 to .030 over? Also has anyone ever milled the head down for more cc's on these little motors? Would there be enough valve clearance if you did? Any help or advise would greatly appreciated! Thanks,,
  14. Can anyone direct me to a place where I can buy a carb rebuild kit for my 2005, arctic cat, 400, 4X4 ? I have been searching the internet and I can't find the kits for any arctic cats... Thanks for any assistance.
  15. Ive been rebuilding Polaris 350 / 400 2 srtoke motors as a hobby for over 10 years. Look up Polaris 400 rebuild kit in Ebay let me know If I can Help. Ebay name is (dontscamme!!!!)
  16. ok guys, just started tearing down the bike on tuesday after work and i was quit surprized at how much i got done in a 2 hrs. got all the plastics off and removed the motor. And also got some air craft cleaner and started to spray down the frame so i can repaint it. I was shocked to see how many different colors wer beneith the top layer of paint. Ther was a range from black, blue, yellow, and purple for the frame; and the shocks had about three different colors painted over them to. After spraying it down i noticed the front wheels changed colors to. I was excited on this one cause i found out the guy before sprayed the wheels silver and i have the old school gold wheels and hubs. i'm tryin to upload the pics right now but photobucket is being a d#*sh. But as soon as i upload them i'll post up the progress so far
  17. hey guys new to the Atv world but have ridden for a few years. I just bought a suzuki 250r LT with the kick start. The only problem is, is that it wont start, and it feels like it has no compression. Has anyone had experience putting a top end rebuild on one of these bike? Is it hard to do? And is ther any torque specs i should know?

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